tod84944

Early car with Fuchs, nice...........
I would take the plugs back out, turn the engine over by hand. Put a 24 mm socket on the crank bolt and turn with a ratchet a few times. Re-spray the wd-40, and do it all over tomorrow. You won't be wasting your time.

luftpirate

My plan was to let the WD40 set a couple days then add some more, Glad to know I can turn the crank over with a wrench. Thx. Once it turns over I guess that means its okay to order all the parts then the real fun begins.

luftpirate

Turned the crank over tonight easily with a ratchet, no problems, Im fabbing up a custom mount to hold in the new battery on its side, if it works out Ill post some pics. Parts are on the way.

luftpirate

Well here we are almost a year later and I am still gearing up to get this project on a roll. I have all the nec. parts to do a complete rebuild of the front end, but I haven't purchased the tools I need to do it.

I know I need the following and I was wondering if anyone could correct me if there was something else necessary to complete the job.

Belt Tension Tool,
http://www.rennbay.com/kricket-belt-...8af415f64a0aa8

Flywheel lock,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/944-F...spagenameZWDVW

Specialty Wrenches,
http://www.rennbay.com/944-timing-be...8af415f64a0aa8

Sprocket Holder,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Sproc...spagenameZWDVW

Also remembered I can get the tools here,
http://www.arnnworx.com/index.htm
Thanks FRporscheman

I'm selling my Fiero and decided to make my 944 a daily next spring, it has been eating away at me the past 9 months with a box of parts just sitting there. Thanks,
Erik

Luis de Prat

That's a cool car. Let us know how the maintenance work goes.

S2cab

Get it running first 100%. Then replace the belts. If you start with a non-running car, & screw something up in the belt install, you'll never know, & probably start chasing down the problem in the wrong area.
You might want to invest in some fogging oil. It's oil instead of penetrating lube & additives. Much kinder on things that need to be lubricated when the engine's turning over.
I wish I had seen this earlier. It would have been easier to take the Red Top back & buy an Interstate battery that fit correctly. They make an exact copy of the OE battery. They do not make a general size, one size fits all application. That's important if you have a specific type of hold-down clamp set-up for your battery.

Mike C.

I would drain that 4 year old and replace before starting it. hopefully there isn't too much gas in it. It's easy to drain BTW, just disconnect the flexible hose at the bottom of the tank (you'll see it near the fuel pump). It might not be a bad idea to replace that hose WYIT. If the car was garaged with the plugs in I really doubt you'll have any ring problems but the WD-40 won't hurt. I would even squirt a little oil in each cyclinder and burn it off with your old plugs. The turbo water pump is no different and you can easily make a block off plate with aluminum plate. Be sure and use the updated pump which has a timing belt guard. You can jumper the DME relay socket to test the fuel pump (see Clark's). Sears makes a Die Hard that fit's perfectly...

luftpirate

Thanks all for the advice,
I am using the redtop in a different vehicle and in search of an Interstate or Sears this weekend.

So I should not be worried about starting up the car on 4 year old belts? Granted I wont be driving around, but should be good enough just to get the car up and running, maybe a few passes up and down the road, then time for a front end rebuild and tune-up?

I will be draining the tank before attempting to start it.

tod84944

Don't get on the throttle too much with that old belt on there. They wear with age also. Dry rott.

Mike C.

Why risk it? If the belt breaks you'll have a lot more work to do...

luftpirate

I know this is sad but I finally got started on this project. I have had a lot of other projects going on and I told myself I would not start this one until I had wrapped up a few others.

Got the correct battery in today, cleaned mass corrosion off all the terminals. Key to On, no Fuel Pump Noise, great, so 1 more thing to add to the list. I was planning on using the fuel pump to drain the tank by disconnecting the fuel rail, but sounds like I might just be dropping the tank. Guess we will see if it's a DME relay first, (6 years sitting) not holding my breath.

I have a mechanic friend who says he can help me with the belts and waterpump job, its all going to be done before I try cranking it over for the first time. Before then I have a lot of things to prep before it goes to the shop. Plan on posting up progress here to keep it going, along with some pics. I'm determined to have this back on the road. Any recommendations for new tires?

951Saga

Please check Clarks Garage (see post #3 for link) for the fuel pump test... your pump may be fine. The fuel pump is not activated until thirty RPM is seen at the flywheel sensor.

Mike C.

No need to drop the tank to drain it. Look under the car on the right rear side to see the fuel pump. There is a hose about one foot long that goes from the bottom of gas tank to inlet of fuel pump. Just unscrew the clamp (on either end) and it will drain. Good luck.

luftpirate

Thanks guys, I was surprised how simple the pump setup is and how easy the tank was to drain. Now I have about 8 gallons of 6 year old gas, wondering if my lawn mower can still burn it. Ill have some fresh gas in it tomorrow so I can test the pump out.

badcoupe

I'm about 15 mins from you in connersville IN. Looks like you have a nice project, if you need anything let me know, I also have a parts car here as well. Pace Kettler in college corner used to mess with these cars alot too, he may still have some parts around too.