Tiger03447

Yes, Dechiles, that would do it..Also, examine the springs behind the brushes. if one of those breaks. that would allow the brush to bounce around and give intermittent voltage results and make your gauges do wonky things.
If you want more voltage, out of an alternator, you will have to change the voltage regulator to something else that will give you the results you want. If you want AC current from an alternator, you have to remove the rectifier that's in there and bypass it to the output post. there are outfits out there that will do this for you...look for automotive electric shops...

Dchiles08

I haven't yet ordered parts. All I want is for everything to work especially gauges bc the car sat for ten to fifteen years before I got ahold of it and I'm afraid to drive it without them. So I planned on getting new bearings and regulator will that be enough?

Tiger03447

Should be,,,before you tear into it, take it down to AutoZone, or a store that has a test bench. Test it and see what the results are. When the tech does the test, the bench should be able to give you #'s. Should be between 13.5 to 15.5 volts. If it sounds OK, and the results are good, why go into it? However, if the bearings sound or feel rough, or gritty, it's time to give it an overhaul. My car sat for about 10+ years, outside, also, but the alternator tested well and the pulley spun freely. I was able to spin it up using a small motor and listened to the bearings..they seemed fine. so I'm going to leave it alone for now..

Van

If *all* of the gauges are going out, I'd suspect it's a grounding issue. Things like water temp and fuel work when just the key is turned on, before the alternator starts charging.

I believe the early cars (pre '85.5) have a different alternator than the one in my pictures.

Dchiles08

Well I'm pretty sure mine is an 85.5

Dchiles08

Iv already torn it apart I know the bearings are bad

pauleknight

I found this kit here
https://alternatorbrush.com/products...37736484044988

The kit is due in today and we hope to rebuild our alternator in the next few days

ALTERNATOR REPAIR REBUILD KIT

• Voltage Regulator with Brushes A-Circuit, 14.4 Voltage Set Point replaces # BMW 12-31-1-271-664, 12-31-1-726-002, 12-31-1-735-742, Bosch 1192052015, 1192052016, 1192052020, 1192052021, 1192052024, 1192052025, 1192052027, 1192052029, 1197311004, 1197311005, 1197311006, 1197311010, 1197311011, 1197311012, 1197311013, 1197311021, 1197311037 / IB352/ IB353
• Premium Quality Bearing 6303-2RS 54700 17X47X14mm
• Premium Quality Bearing 6201-2RS 53200 12X32X10mm
• Bearing Tolerance Ring Replaces Bosch 1120591040, 1120591053, 1120591082, Audi, Volkswagen 049-903-223, BMW 12-31-1-715-174, Opel 1204967, Volvo 1363740, Other: 130-7018, 130-09000, 46-91550, ABO2200, 5-650A, 5-650, 5650a, 5650, W110-21, w11021
• Capacitor, Capacitance: 2.2 µF - 2.2MF Blade Terminal End Replaces BMW 12-31-1-353-829, Bosch 0290800036, 0290800005, Chrysler 5234454, Other 170-24000, 46-91100
• Slip Ring, 0.87" 22mm L, 0.67" 17mm ID, 1.1" 28mm OD Replaces / BMW 12-31-1-276-217 Bosch 1-124-303-001, 1-124-303-005, 1-124-303-015, 9-124-303-001 Other; 28-91850,

APPLICATION

Porsche 928 V8 5.0L 1985-1991
Porsche 928 V8 5.4L 1993-1995
Porsche 944 L4 2.5L 1985-1989
Porsche 944 L4 2.7L 1989
Porsche 944 L4 3.0L 1989-1991
Porsche 968 L4 3.0L 1992-1995

UNIT #S

Bosch 0120468001, 0120468002, 0120468003, 0120468004, 0120468005, 0120468006, Porsche 928-603-011-00, 928-603-011-01

Tiger03447

I know this is an old, long-running thread, but if you want a higher output out of your alternator, you will probably have to take it to an alternator/ auto electric shop. They can probably set you up with a higher amp output components , install it for you, test it out and get you on the road again. Probably at a lesser price that you would pay for one at a parts store..if they could even get it. Auto electric shops are magicians on alternator innards, Just sayin…