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Alternator rebuild

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Old 07-11-2008, 12:49 AM
  #46  
KuHL 951
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Originally Posted by m73m95
OK, I shall edit my previous "????" filled reply

Bosch makes both a 90 amp and a 115 amp alternator for the 944 n/a (Haven't checked turbo, but I'm almost sure its the same alternator as the n/a)

Whats the difference????
I know my 86 Turbo's are both 115A as well as all later 944's and 968's. There is a physical length difference in the body between the 90A early cars also. The larger late alternator can also interfere with turbo upgrades at the cooling shroud and IC pipe.
Old 07-11-2008, 01:36 AM
  #47  
m73m95
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So the 90A is for early cars, and the 115A is Late cars?

Sounds good to me. Chalk that one up to poor research on my part! Sorry for the confusion.

My alternator works enough to keep the battery up, but if I use the A/C or even the headlights, it falls to or below 12v ..... I need to rebuild mine.
Old 07-11-2008, 11:12 PM
  #48  
544DRS
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Same here. My battery was always at 11.xx volts, and I'd get that reading when I had my 944 running too. I thought the battery was bad, but had it tested and it tested strong. I recently got a charger (float-something-or-other) and now my battery is 12.55 volts, even when sitting for days.

Granted, my car hasn't been on the road in weeks as I finish the stereo install, dash install, and upholstery rejuvenation.

I'm sure I have the puny alternator, and wonder if there's a way to rebuild it so it yanks out a few more amps.

Thanks,

Nick
Old 07-11-2008, 11:28 PM
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genikz
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edit: nevermind. Brain fade...
Old 07-12-2008, 01:16 AM
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Hey Chris, did you ever rebuild yours? I ordered the bearings from your links and they'll be here in a few days.
Old 07-12-2008, 01:31 AM
  #51  
m73m95
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How about a new diode pack?

From the links on this thread I have found bearings, and voltage regulator but even after googling, I can't find diodes for this alternator.

I know there are alot of things that cross over to BMW, AUDI, or VW on our cars. Does anyone know if this alternator was used on any of those other makes of cars? I can find any part you want for just about anything but Porsche.
Old 07-12-2008, 01:54 AM
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So, the "symptom" of an alternator not putting out enough "volts" would indicate a defective...what?

Nick
Old 07-12-2008, 03:52 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by ModdedEverything951S
Hey Chris, did you ever rebuild yours? I ordered the bearings from your links and they'll be here in a few days.
I did, but only the smaller of the two bearings. I didn't touch any of the electronics, as my alt charged fine, it just whined something fierce.

Honestly after trying to rebuild the SOB, I would rather buy a rebuilt unit. It's frustrating and near impossible without the right gear pullers. I didn't really take pictures during the process, but I think I can help walk you thru it if you have trouble. Just give me a ring.
Old 12-16-2009, 02:54 PM
  #54  
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has anyone tried to get the other part out of the other half of the case? the coiled up wire part i mean...

I Have my alternator apart but i need that part out of there before i can get the case plated
Old 12-16-2009, 07:50 PM
  #55  
Van
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It's been a while, but I think it's "bonded" in with epoxy or something...

Can you "mask it off" with something?
Old 12-17-2009, 01:12 AM
  #56  
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hmmmmm well i wanted to get the whole case copper plated... which means it would be completely submerged in a vat of chemicals and stuff.

ill see what i can do... otherwise i guess ill just paint the thing.

but i would rather do this


Old 12-17-2009, 10:23 AM
  #57  
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That'll look different!

I know that for some chemical plating, you can mask off area with a rubber-ish compound. Talk to your plater and see what they recommend.
Old 11-10-2011, 01:44 AM
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Well this is an old thread, but it thought I'd add what I think is an important detail for early alternators. The bearing fit in the rear housing is very loose, and there is an o-ring that should be there to keep the outer bearing race from spinning/rattling around and ruining the bore. On this one it was smashed so flat in the bore that I almost couldn't tell it was there, and broke into pieces when I dug it out. I replaced it with a .070" diameter Silicone (high temp) o-ring cut down from a larger size.

The first picture shows the o-ring in the German alternator that will keep your battery charged. The second picture shows a German Sheppard who wanted to have his picture on the Internet.
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Old 12-13-2012, 07:02 PM
  #59  
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Has anyone who's performed this repair experienced any problem since the rebuild? Figured since it was an old enough thread (and I think common enough problem) people may be able to offer whether it's a good investment and if they'd do it again.

Toying with rebuilding vs. buying a re-man (like everyone reading this, I suspect).

Thanks guys!
Old 12-13-2012, 07:08 PM
  #60  
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Hi Dave, that's a blast from the past. My alternator ran fine until I crashed my car last year...


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