Money Pit 951

Looks great!
Are you going to use the rear cooling duct with it? With the AC gone, it's low enough to stay away from the turbo's heat.

Van

I am going to put the air duct on, but that will be a future project -- like you say, it's a little further from the turbo's heat, so I'm not in a great rush.

The funnel thing on the back is too long -- the engine mount physically prevents it from going on. So my plan is to cut a section out of the funnel, and then with some thin sheet aluminum and a pop rivet gun, make it shorter. Then I think I'll need a PVC elbow from Home Depot, which will make it a straight shot to the air duct!

The real reason holding up my attack on the alternator funnel is that my pop riveter is on loan to a friend so he can assemble this little project:

Supachink

are the bearing sizes the same for an early alternator 90a? I'm looking to order bearings, but im not sure if the shafts are the same sizes on both the early and later alternators. Anyone rebuit an early alternator with success?

Thanks
Greg

Van

I don't have an answer for you there, Greg... If you have PET you could compare p/n's.

Good luck!

genikz

I hope I got these links correct, but here is another source for the bearings:
32mm: http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/servlet/Detail?no=422
47mm: http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/se...Bearing/Detail

Van

Thanks for adding to the thread, Genikz!

genikz

Van, you did all the hard work buddy! I'm going to give this alt. rebuild a go as soon as my bearings come in.

mtccl

Awesome write-up with pix.

Didn't have to return mine as a core and considering rebuilding. Totally burned up my electronics.

Anyone have the part numbers and cheapest vendor for the regulator and other noise reducer part.

Thanks!

kevincnc

Old thread, but Paragon has voltage regulators, and the early alternator uses a 6001 instead of 6201 on the small end-
http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/se...Bearing/Detail

Darwantae951

Old thread, I know, but I have a question regarding these bearings. On the website it give the option to order a rubber sealed version or a metal shielded version. Which would suit this application?

Thanks!

-Darwin

m73m95

This is an old thread, but a great one. I'm glad you brought it back up Darwin.

I need to do this aswell, but I would like to increase the amperage of my alternator. Does anyone know how I would do that? I know you can buy the origional amp (75?) or a 90 (110?) I don't remember the exact amps, but whats the difference between the 2? And, can I change mine to a higher amp output??

Thanks,

genikz

I wish I could comment on the correct type of bearing, but I wasn't able to use it actually.

I bought the rubber sealed 47mm, but it didn't fit. I ended up using the bearing that was in there. Thankfully that wasn't the one that was screaming in my alternator.

I probably should have mentioned that earlier!

If I had to guess, the bearing was about 1mm too large (diameter).

Van

I don't know the amp answer, sorry Mark.

The bearing with the rubber cover is called "sealed" and the bearing with the metal cover is called "shielded". The sealed is better at keeping out contaminants, but the rubber touching the inner race creates a little friction...

So, to maximize horsepower, go with shielded.

Truthfully, I don't think it really matters which one you use.

KuHL 951

Great write up Van and thanks. The rubber or plastic seal also gets exposed very hot temps and will fail sooner than a ZZ (2Z) metal seal. It's amazing how hot the alternator can get.

m73m95

OK, I shall edit my previous "????" filled reply

Bosch makes both a 90 amp and a 115 amp alternator for the 944 n/a (Haven't checked turbo, but I'm almost sure its the same alternator as the n/a)

Whats the difference????