Help with PC intake replacement
#1
Help with PC intake replacement
Hello,
Im hoping to get a camtower and an intake powdercoated very soon. I was wondering what else I need to do this I have all the tools (I think), but what other parts? I am ordering a new cam housing gasket and a 4 new intake gaskets. Is there anything else I need?
Thanks,
Dan
Im hoping to get a camtower and an intake powdercoated very soon. I was wondering what else I need to do this I have all the tools (I think), but what other parts? I am ordering a new cam housing gasket and a 4 new intake gaskets. Is there anything else I need?
Thanks,
Dan
#3
If you are in there you may want to replace the rubber vacuum hose from the intake to the ISV... they are over 20 years old, and fairly cheap at 8 bucks. No way it can be replaced without the intake off, so might as well do it now.
Also while you have the intake off is the best time to replace all your vacuum lines as well. Get the Lindsey silicon kit and replace all those old brittle lines and connectors with new stuff. Again, inexpensive fixes that make a difference.
If you're taking apart the cam housing, you will likely want a new woodruff key for the cam, and make sure to get the little clear mylar washer seal for the front of the cam. Also a good time to toss a new cap and rotor on if your are old.
Also see clark's garage for the cam housing... you'll need a special hex key to get to the bolts down in the cam housing. You don't want to long of a hex key because it will flex when you are trying to torque it. I made mine from a cutoff hex wrench and a 1/4" drive deep narrow socket.
Also while you have the intake off is the best time to replace all your vacuum lines as well. Get the Lindsey silicon kit and replace all those old brittle lines and connectors with new stuff. Again, inexpensive fixes that make a difference.
If you're taking apart the cam housing, you will likely want a new woodruff key for the cam, and make sure to get the little clear mylar washer seal for the front of the cam. Also a good time to toss a new cap and rotor on if your are old.
Also see clark's garage for the cam housing... you'll need a special hex key to get to the bolts down in the cam housing. You don't want to long of a hex key because it will flex when you are trying to torque it. I made mine from a cutoff hex wrench and a 1/4" drive deep narrow socket.
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#8
What is the part number for the hose from the ISV to the intake? I'm doing this right this moment. My old intake had a horizontal connector for this hose, but new one has a vertical one.
Definatly get an injector seals. If you dont need them you can always return them or sell then on here.
Definatly get an injector seals. If you dont need them you can always return them or sell then on here.
#10
Oh crap... let me note this now for you guys then... MAKE SURE to get the proper early/late intake from Jesse. To get the wrong one is to ask for a PITA, as the hoses will not cross over. The early model is different and the j-shaped hose is crazy expensive - The nipple faces down towards the ground.
The late model has the nipple facing inward toward the motor, and uses a cheaper s-hose. I got stalled 2 months by having the wrong one as the hoses are not generic, and have two different size ends.
The rear ISV hose for late cars is 944-110-214-01. I lied earlier, it's 12 bucks
clicky for pelican listing
The late model has the nipple facing inward toward the motor, and uses a cheaper s-hose. I got stalled 2 months by having the wrong one as the hoses are not generic, and have two different size ends.
The rear ISV hose for late cars is 944-110-214-01. I lied earlier, it's 12 bucks
clicky for pelican listing
#12
You are not confused at all. You are 100% correct - early = vertical, late = horizontal.
I'm typing this in my garage, as I install my intake after 2.5 months... this issue is way too close to my heart. Good luck!
I'm typing this in my garage, as I install my intake after 2.5 months... this issue is way too close to my heart. Good luck!