picklejuice52

Hey all, per your guys advice, the clicking in the rear of my car coyuld be stopped if i repacked the CV joints. Well you were right, it stopped the clicking, but it has now introduced a swishing noise. When im on a narrow road and can hear the echo of my car, i hear a swishing noise coming from the newly packed CV joints. Is this normal? will it go away with more driving? It sounds like a jogger in windbreakers is trying to keep up with my car. Any advice? thanks!!

Dave951M

If the joints were clicking, chances are they're already damaged. Greasing them will get you some extra miles out of them before they get really bad.

Don 944 LA

EXACTLY !!!!
(yesterday)
After greasing a clanking set, I drove around a few miles and they totally went.

Kragen auto parts $66 entire axle with (2) CV's the only thing you need are the bolts and funny washers off the old one. ($75 core charge). Even comes with packets of grease ALL FOR $ 66 !!!!!

The other side isn't making a sound, but the movement that it has when it's in my hand is totally different than then the new ones, so I'll be replaceing the left side too ASAP.

when they go, you are dead in the water ( spider gears drive the side with LEAST resistance )

Good luck

EDIT: only had to wait a few hours on the axle. about 45 minutes to swap them, once greased. Took the bad one in this morning as a core.

yellowline

Are you describing a roaring sound at speed? If you put it in neutral and let the car coast, does it still make the noise? If so, you may need new wheel bearings.

FWIW, I've extracted over 20k more miles out of a regreased, previously clunking set of CVs. Still going. I will be replacing them this year, hopefully before any long trips.

picklejuice52

thanks for all the information. Does anyone have a procedure for replacing the CV joints. Id like to do this myself. Are there any special tools required to get those retaining rings on that hold the rubber joint to both sides of the axle? Thanks for any and all information@!@!!

yellowline

clarks-garage.com, click on "Garage Shop Manual" and look under C.

The only special tools you need are good snapring pliers and a 12-point socket.

EMBPilot

Off the top of my head and in no particular order.....

id call myself an amature when it comes to working on cars, i go slow, by the book, and ask the guys at pelican LOTS of questions. my first job on my 88 was replacing a CV all because of a torn boot. The CV gutted itself. The job is very straight forward. you can 1) just buy a new axel and be done with it or get the joints and do it yourself. its a very messy job but its very basic. Two CVs are like 65 bucks each, where an axle will run ya between 150-250.

i will tell you about my experience, more about this can be found as it happened at the pelican website

sometimes the CVs get stuck on the axle, if this happens, take the CV down to the inner race, so its the only part of the CV hanging onto the axle. set that on top of a solid vice and let the axle hang. get a closed end wrench that has an angled handle that will fit exactly around the axle and only the axle, and HIT IT HARD. once you get the axle down deep enough through the CV it should straighten the splines out enough that you will be able to push it by hand the rest of the way. they typically get stuck just as they hit the edge of the axle coming off. once you get them past that point its easier. I even tried a gear puller on mine and had no luck until i did the wrench and hammer trick. to get the CV back on, find an closed end wrench that will fit around the inner race only, set it on top of there and pound the wrench, it will slide the CV evenly down the axle. if your lucky it should just slide on. chances are it wont.

follow clarks garage.
Use compatible grease.
Remember the U shaped washer, goes on the axle and the bottom part of the U will face towards the center of the axle.

when you get your new CVs, mark them so you know how they go back together again, its a bit of a puzzle. even take a picture, and play with them to see how they FEEL when they are together correctly. then grab a comfy chair in your garage, take it apart, then put the CV back together, it'll take some time, and even though you'll think you got it 10 times, the joint will be "locked" so it wont slide in-and-out or tilt. if it doesnt do any of that, its together wrong. once you start cursing, and are about to throw it at your car, and you squeeze it together firmly it'll go in with a snap, and you'll know when you have it right because it will tilt and be able to move in and out.

i greased mine when they were apart, and put them together and slid them onto the axle.
remember to pack some CV grease into the joint boots.
buy lots of latex gloves, and keep lots of newspaper and rags handy, find a pair of clothes you’ll never want to wear ever again.
have lots of brake cleaner handy, and a parts tub.

when you take your axles down, clean everything down to bare metal so your working with a clean start.

get the right triple square socket for the job, and clean your old bolts with a tooth brush and brake cleaner before you remove them. I got my triple square socket at a auto parts store and it was just a long shaft (three inches?) that I had to fit into a 1/2 socket. those are the best ones, because it will give you room to clear the CV boot when you work on them.

i used new bolts on one side of my axle and reused bolts on the other side, people say not to do that, i havent had a problem yet. (knocks on wood) if you use old bolts they recommend you use a drop of lock tight on them. Torque them correctly. (30 pounds??)

please find me here or at pelican if you need any tips. Im not one to be giving advice around here as these two bulletin boards attract 944 Jedi knights, but this was just from my experience. I don’t know where id be without the 944 Jedi knights...

picklejuice52

thank you very much, i really appreciate the time you went through to write that up. I only have one last question, i have no idea which side is clicking, i know its the left passenger side axle but i have no clue if its the inner our outer part thats worn. Should i buy two CV joint kits and replace both? Is one side (inner or outer) more prone to making noise? Thanks!!

picklejuice52

nvm i saw that most are sold including inner and outer, so i dont have to choose.

Bri Bro

Just buy the entire axle assembly, it will be a lot easier to install and will be only slightly higher in cost. I also like to replace them in sets, they tend to wear out around the same time.

EMBPilot

i agree with brian. the whole new axle assembly will save you hours of your time, you'll have new stuff for just a small increase in $ spent.

picklejuice52

Thanks guys! When i recieve this new axle with both CV's already in place, do i have to still pack them with grease or do they come that way already? Thanks !!

EMBPilot

i got mine from pelican, it was brand new, it should come pre packed with plastic lids on the end. once your done installing your new axle, remember to recheck the bolts after driving it around after a few tanks of gas. theres been talk of freshly installed bolts backing out.

picklejuice52

thanks! One last question and ill shut up, Should i replace both the right and the left side axle assemblies or just the one that is making noise? I beleive they are original and my car has 170k on it. Thanks, you all have been very helpful!!

EMBPilot

id say if its not making noise, save your money and leave it alone, until it does. if the boots leaking or broken then that should be addressed.