installing new tie rods need help PLEASEEE
12-08-2006, 07:34 PM
#1
Banned
Thread Starter
installing new tie rods need help PLEASEEE
just wondering how to install new tie rods on a 1984 944 i just got new ones but need a website that shows me how to install them or if you know let me know
thanks
chris
thanks
chris
12-08-2006, 08:02 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
Inner or outer?
For outer, simply release locknut, then take off nut holding it to the spindle and knock it out, then unscrew it out of the inner tie rod and replace. Try to count number of turns or measure , otherwise you'll need an alignment..
For inner, do the same except don't bother with unscrewing the outer end, pull rubber boot back towards the steering rack (pull it over everything until you see the knuckle of the inner tie rod. Big adjustable wrench around the inner tie rod end nut and it shoudl come off.
For outer, simply release locknut, then take off nut holding it to the spindle and knock it out, then unscrew it out of the inner tie rod and replace. Try to count number of turns or measure , otherwise you'll need an alignment..
For inner, do the same except don't bother with unscrewing the outer end, pull rubber boot back towards the steering rack (pull it over everything until you see the knuckle of the inner tie rod. Big adjustable wrench around the inner tie rod end nut and it shoudl come off.
12-09-2006, 12:06 AM
#3
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Are you talking about the tie rods, or the tie rod ends? If you're just replacing the tie rods, you better replace the tie rod ends too.
www.clarks-garage.com
www.clarks-garage.com
12-09-2006, 12:02 PM
#4
Usually you can purchase the outer tie rod ends (attaches to the spindle), or the entire tie rod assembly (inner end and outer end); seldom do you see only the inner end (attaches to the rack).
There are a few write ups on R&R the entire rack hanging around the forums here an others, and a few published articles in magazines such as Excellence.
If you need to remove the inner tie rod end (the inner end is under the bellows boot), in either situation, there are a few precautions that are not published in the manuals.
A) After you pull back the boot (and you might as well replace the boots if they need it at this time), you need to "peen" back the section of the small flange or washer formed in the inner tie rod end where it meets the rack shaft end; you will see the flange is bent into a notch in the end of the rack.
B) Before you attempt to turn the inner tie rod end loose (CCW when you are facing it) from the rack shaft, you must hold the rack shaft securely so it does not twist and put excessive force against the pinion gear. The pinion gear is harder than the rack shaft gear and too much force can damage a tooth's profile on the rack shaft gear. Also the pinion gear rides (is supported) between a needle bearing in the bottom of the aluminum housing and a bearing at the top. There is a specific stack clearance in the pinion assembly, as well there is a set backlash between the rack gear and pinion gear; in other words everything is not snug as a rug against each other. Excessive force can damage the bearing (typically the lower).
To help prevent these potential problems you need to "hold" the rack shaft. One method is to use and open end wrench, with an extension (large pipe to hold it) for additional torque, applied over the flat section milled into the gear teath on the rack shaft (US: RH drivers side). You hold the rack shaft in place so it does not move while either removing the inner tie rod end (or assembly) from the rack or replacing it.
And counting the number of threads exposed or on one side of the locking nut
on the adjuster is a great "guide" or starting point to getting your alignment set. However remember that if the adjustment was out of spec to begin with, or if the replacement part's "number of threads" is not the same as the one in the car (you will run into this, especially if the brand is not the same) relying on it alone might not be a good idea. If you can, measure the distance from the end of the rack shaft (where the inner joint joins the rack) to the end of the outer joint's center of the ball cap..... to set a starting point until you can have the alignment verified (if it is important to you).
There are a few write ups on R&R the entire rack hanging around the forums here an others, and a few published articles in magazines such as Excellence.
If you need to remove the inner tie rod end (the inner end is under the bellows boot), in either situation, there are a few precautions that are not published in the manuals.
A) After you pull back the boot (and you might as well replace the boots if they need it at this time), you need to "peen" back the section of the small flange or washer formed in the inner tie rod end where it meets the rack shaft end; you will see the flange is bent into a notch in the end of the rack.
B) Before you attempt to turn the inner tie rod end loose (CCW when you are facing it) from the rack shaft, you must hold the rack shaft securely so it does not twist and put excessive force against the pinion gear. The pinion gear is harder than the rack shaft gear and too much force can damage a tooth's profile on the rack shaft gear. Also the pinion gear rides (is supported) between a needle bearing in the bottom of the aluminum housing and a bearing at the top. There is a specific stack clearance in the pinion assembly, as well there is a set backlash between the rack gear and pinion gear; in other words everything is not snug as a rug against each other. Excessive force can damage the bearing (typically the lower).
To help prevent these potential problems you need to "hold" the rack shaft. One method is to use and open end wrench, with an extension (large pipe to hold it) for additional torque, applied over the flat section milled into the gear teath on the rack shaft (US: RH drivers side). You hold the rack shaft in place so it does not move while either removing the inner tie rod end (or assembly) from the rack or replacing it.
And counting the number of threads exposed or on one side of the locking nut
on the adjuster is a great "guide" or starting point to getting your alignment set. However remember that if the adjustment was out of spec to begin with, or if the replacement part's "number of threads" is not the same as the one in the car (you will run into this, especially if the brand is not the same) relying on it alone might not be a good idea. If you can, measure the distance from the end of the rack shaft (where the inner joint joins the rack) to the end of the outer joint's center of the ball cap..... to set a starting point until you can have the alignment verified (if it is important to you).
