I haven't checked this car but on my 924 the exhaust system was checked several times and it was not leaking anywhere.

 

I noticed that now when I slam the hatch down and it shuts, I can pull on the right side of the hatch and it will pop back out. Would I have to make the pin longer to fix this?

also how do you make the pin longer, there is nothing to turn it with, just a nut to tighten and loosen it.

 

Yes, the right pin needs to be longer. Move it in, at most, quarter turns. My original hatch set-up had a flat head notch on the tip of the cone. My new set-up, a 968 hatch, does not have the flathead provision. Before you cowboy it with a pliers, spray some penetrant on it to make sure it is turnable. I have had mine seized and ruined the bolt side of the pin. Good luck.

 

You may also find that your pin is worn, which will prevent it from securing the hatch. In that case, you will have to buy a new one.

__________________________________________
1986 944 NA Guards Red all original 91K mi. - minty
1983 944 NA Platinum Metallic w/LSD 6000 mi. beginning a new life
1985 944 NA Guards Red w/LSD (donor car)
1984 911 Carrera Coupe (gone, but not forgotten)
"If you're not living on the edge, you're not living."

 

I tried several things to fix my cabin leak of exhaust fumes, which would happen when windows or sunroof were opened. I replaced the lower hatch seal, which had shrunk a few inches, sealed up all drain holes and every potential hole I could locate, also resealed the tail lenses. None of the above helped, actually the new seal reduced road noise some, made the leaks worse. Good news, I was fortunate to know where a great muffler shop is locally, and they fixed the problem my simply bending a section of tailpipe and curving the outlet to the side, so the exhaust blows out the side of the car near the driver door,behind the wheel. The problem is solved and the fix is cosmetically appealing with the addition of a nice exhaust tip. I tried to post photos earlier, but no luck. It's great to be able to roll down my windows!
Mr Chuck
87 Porsche 944

 

I get exhaust fumes into the car with the window down too. I think I may have a small exhaust leak somewhere but haven't been able to find it. I have only replaced the rear hatch seal, which mostly cut down on road noise. I think I will replace the gas cap just for grins too.

 

If your CO or CO2 meter is detecting elevated levels, that will help you solve this systematically.
For example, air out the car, close windows, get a reading after 10 minutes (baseline).
Let car idle 10 minutes, get reading (idle baseline). This reading tells you if this method stands a chance of telling you something useful (if no differnence from baseline, test can't work).
Return to baseline.
Take blue masking tape and seal the living crap out of the hatch/body interface from the outside. Idle for 10 minutes and take a reading (idle measurement #1). That should tell you the amount that is leaking through the hatch.
Repeat other idle measurements for other suspects (shifter, lights, drains, etc. )

 

Any conclusion from OP ?

 

Another item that may be the cause is the ventilation valve, part number 810 201 186. This is found on early model cars (1982 to 1985.5) and was deleted on the later cars. This part is under the cover on the fuel filler side in the cabin. when the valve is stuck/jammed you will get fumes getting past the fuel sender seal and the other fuel hoses. I was getting fumes in the cabin and the problem was solved after I deleted this valve.

 

I had the same problem on my 87, figured it was an exhust leak. I did find
a broken weld on the #4 header pipe between the pipe and flange, I was
sure this was the cause, I was wrong.

This car has a separating rear hatch like most of us do so to avoid breaking
the glass or stressing the frame anymore I removed the lift struts from the
frame. At the same time I replaced the hatch pins that were rusted in place.
I was able to adjust the pins tight enough to have the hatch pop when the
key was turned, so it was now tight. Sure enough the fumes are now gone!

Hope this helps!

Steve

 

By chance do you have a picture of the outlet? Sounds like a good idea..

 

Very curious about deleting this valve out on mine as well, I cannot find 810 201 186 any more to replace it and believe mine has failed. Did you run into any issues deleting it out altogether? Did you just run a new line from the barb to the stop valve? Thanks!

 

Why do you think your valve has failed?

 

I am not completely sure it has honestly but after reading an article from Clark's garage, he indicated that that valve may have failed if you experience a big "whoosh" sound when opening the gas cap (which I do). Also I have been trying to proactively replace some of the hoses by the filler neck to deal with what I think is a problem with fuel vapors leaking into the cabin. I am dealing with some "wooziness" and headaches after driving. And I am trying to do everything to seal it up, need to do some further investigation on exhaust as well.

 

The valve near the filler neck is for rollover protection to keep gas leaking out of the tank. Its a simple valve with a ball bearing in it and can easily be removed and checked. Always always check things and verify they are defective before replacing. Parts arent cheap.

The valve(s) controlling EVAP (which are more likely where you will want to focus) are engine side, youll want to check those, as well as the charcoal canister (making sure air can travel through its inlet and comes out the outlet port) and all lines running to/from for blockage.

All of this was just covered like 2 days ago in another thread here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...vent-line.html