Auto-Tensioners: replace whole or just the roller?
11-14-2006, 01:43 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
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Auto-Tensioners: replace whole or just the roller?
Should the whole auto-tensioner assembly (for post 87 cars) be replaced during a timing belt change? or can I replace just the roller on the auto-tensioner?
What do you guys usually do?
What do you guys usually do?
11-14-2006, 01:54 PM
#2
Set to Full-Auto
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Well I guess it all depends on if you trust it to tension the belt correctly - I do not. If you have a way of measuring tension you can manually set it by putting a wrench on the pulley nut and adjusting it. There is really nothing to go wrong mechanically in the tensioner EXCEPT the actual tension it applies.
Do yourself a favor and purchase either:
1. Kricket - cheapest and actually works pretty well (I have one), does not work well or at all with auto-tensioner.
2. Arnnworx 920X - ~$125, easier to use than the factory tool and very high quality (just ordered one).
3. P9201 - $600 and is trial and error based, it is the correct factory tool though and retains resale value very well.
With option 2 or 3 you will be able you set it correctly and know that it is right - and then all you have to do is change the roller.
Do yourself a favor and purchase either:
1. Kricket - cheapest and actually works pretty well (I have one), does not work well or at all with auto-tensioner.
2. Arnnworx 920X - ~$125, easier to use than the factory tool and very high quality (just ordered one).
3. P9201 - $600 and is trial and error based, it is the correct factory tool though and retains resale value very well.
With option 2 or 3 you will be able you set it correctly and know that it is right - and then all you have to do is change the roller.
11-14-2006, 02:31 PM
#3
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Originally Posted by b5audia4
Should the whole auto-tensioner assembly (for post 87 cars) be replaced during a timing belt change? or can I replace just the roller on the auto-tensioner?
What do you guys usually do?
What do you guys usually do?
Follow the correct procedure in the Factory manual for tensioning using the auto-tensioner, it is different than the manual tensioner procedure.
If you double check the belt (after setting tension with the auto-tensioner) with the factory gage, you need to roll the crank/cam back to slack the belt (which is using the manual method of checking/tensioning - something like 15 deg or 1.5 teeth back from TDC).
I have found that the factory auto-tensioner on 5 different 944 series engines does match the +/- spec for the manual tension; I have not found an auto-tensioner that does not meet factory specs.
11-14-2006, 03:39 PM
#4
Captain Obvious
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tensioner woes
If the tensioner looks ok, I'd just replace the roller....much cheaper too.
Just did all my rollers and tensioners in my 88 944S...only 125,000 kms. You will know if a roller or tensioner is gone...just spin it.
Just did all my rollers and tensioners in my 88 944S...only 125,000 kms. You will know if a roller or tensioner is gone...just spin it.
11-14-2006, 10:56 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
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Thanks for the responses!
From the searches, I figured the auto tensioner doesn't really tension and would need to be adjusted anyways. So I think I will just replace the roller on the auto tensioner since the whole assembly is almost $200+.
From the searches, I figured the auto tensioner doesn't really tension and would need to be adjusted anyways. So I think I will just replace the roller on the auto tensioner since the whole assembly is almost $200+.