16v broken tensioner mount, what to do?
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I was in the process of seals, timing belt, tensioner etc on a spare engine to go into my 944S when I discovered the mount for the tensioner is broken. The missing metal part is nowhere to be found so it must have been ground up/ drained out with the oil at some point. Here's a pic:
http://www.digidale.net/photos/v/car...F0230.JPG.html
Do you think this can be reliably welded and fixed or should I use the head from the other engine (which is much higher mileage, has already broken belt/bent valves once before)?
Should I go ahead and do rod bearings and mains? or just rod bearings. I don't have a factory service manual so I'm venturing into unknown territory regarding specs here anyway. I can't wait to figure out how to retime the thing. (anyone have fsm online somewhere?
)
Thoughts?
dale
[edit] I'd also note the engine appeared to only have about 2 quarts of oil when I drained it on the stand. It appeared relatively clean.. but I think this probably answers my question about the mains huh?
http://www.digidale.net/photos/v/car...F0230.JPG.html
Do you think this can be reliably welded and fixed or should I use the head from the other engine (which is much higher mileage, has already broken belt/bent valves once before)?
Should I go ahead and do rod bearings and mains? or just rod bearings. I don't have a factory service manual so I'm venturing into unknown territory regarding specs here anyway. I can't wait to figure out how to retime the thing. (anyone have fsm online somewhere?
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Thoughts?
dale
[edit] I'd also note the engine appeared to only have about 2 quarts of oil when I drained it on the stand. It appeared relatively clean.. but I think this probably answers my question about the mains huh?
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Dale, about getting the head welded. Given the cost of these things, I'd bring it to someone and ask. What could it hurt? I don't see why it couldn't be welded up. It's just a solid piece of metal, and there's plenty left to determine where to grind it down to. Anyway, it doesn't take TOO much stress, or the tensioner wouldn't be attached with those two little screws.
Now, I tend to overdo things, but my thinking here is: if you're doing rod bearings, and it's on a stand already, why not do the mains? You can check the crank, etc., while it's out.
Personally, I wouldn't do ANY of this without a factory manual. Get one on CD-ROM. They're cheap.
Now, I tend to overdo things, but my thinking here is: if you're doing rod bearings, and it's on a stand already, why not do the mains? You can check the crank, etc., while it's out.
Personally, I wouldn't do ANY of this without a factory manual. Get one on CD-ROM. They're cheap.
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Man, you got lucky......
Take the head somewhere that specializes in aluminum welding/machining. We can put a man on the moon, we can fix that!
Take the head somewhere that specializes in aluminum welding/machining. We can put a man on the moon, we can fix that!
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Originally Posted by krahmlow
Personally, I wouldn't do ANY of this without a factory manual. Get one on CD-ROM. They're cheap.
dale
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Originally Posted by sharky47
Man, you got lucky......
Take the head somewhere that specializes in aluminum welding/machining. We can put a man on the moon, we can fix that!
Take the head somewhere that specializes in aluminum welding/machining. We can put a man on the moon, we can fix that!
I plan on taking the head and parts to a local shop on Monday and see what can be done. It's aluminum, so quite weldable. Just wondering how much more this is gonna hurt my wallet. It seems this car is cursed with problem after problem.
dale
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Joseph Mitro had his tensioner pad fail a few years ago and the chain snagged and ripped the tensioner, with part of the head off. He had the head repaired by a good aluminum welder and everything was fine afterwards. Just take it to someone with good skills and experience (preferably who can also do the required machining afterwards).
Good Luck!!
Good Luck!!