tensioner roller broke, timing belt slipped, valves bad?!
#16
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Originally Posted by Kelly Holzhauser
Rock,
Front Royal is only about 50 miles west of Ashburn, right off route 66. Did you just put the roller back on, align the timing, and everything was okay? Or, did you have to take the head off for valve work? I may take you up on the help offer. The roller should arrive Friday and I'll do the compression check. If that's fine, I'm good. I've never taken the head off.
Front Royal is only about 50 miles west of Ashburn, right off route 66. Did you just put the roller back on, align the timing, and everything was okay? Or, did you have to take the head off for valve work? I may take you up on the help offer. The roller should arrive Friday and I'll do the compression check. If that's fine, I'm good. I've never taken the head off.
Taking the head off isnt that big of a deal, especially if its an N/a. A 951 is a tad bit tougher, especially on the exhaust headers.
Do a check and let me know how it goes, and let me know if you need an extra hand wrenching!
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pulling off the head now...
Rock,
Thanks again for the offer. Smooth sailing so far. Where, I assume in Northern Virginia, did you take the head to? I just got back to Virginia, from Texas, and don't know any reputable places for that to be done. I'm just thankful all this didn't happen on the 2,000 mile drive home from El Paso!
Rock,
Thanks again for the offer. Smooth sailing so far. Where, I assume in Northern Virginia, did you take the head to? I just got back to Virginia, from Texas, and don't know any reputable places for that to be done. I'm just thankful all this didn't happen on the 2,000 mile drive home from El Paso!
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By the way Where did you but the belt and rollers from and are they OEM?. I am due for a belt and roller change and I dont want to buy the same parts from the same source. It seemd to me that your a victim of a manufactureres defect or fraud from the work not being performed correctly. I wouldnt pay for the repairs again you should consult the manufacturer and inform them of your intent to serve process due to material defect and the cost of repairs. Unless, of course your mechanic diddnt install the new rollers to begin with and then your fight is with him. I hope it all works out.
Sincerely
George
Sincerely
George
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George,
It was the middle of winter and I had no garage. So, I took the car to a shop. They acquired and installed all of the parts. I still have the receipt, somewhere. But, I'm afraid it would be hard to prove the roller wasn't installed, if it actually wasn't. And, I'm not sure what could be done if the roller actually failed.
My focus right now is just getting the car running again. I've got the cam cover removed now, and I can see the springs are still good. It also appears that the cam is good. The four exhaust valves are all closed. I'm quessing there's a good chance they may be okay. The four intake valves are not closed. I can't tell if they are all the way open, or just partially open. Since the cam is out, I assume they should be closed, also. I'm guessing they are all bad. Seems kind of strange to me that all four intake valves would be bent, but not any exhaust valves, just judging on the fact that they're not closed. I should have the head off tomorrow, and find out for sure the condition of the valves.
It was the middle of winter and I had no garage. So, I took the car to a shop. They acquired and installed all of the parts. I still have the receipt, somewhere. But, I'm afraid it would be hard to prove the roller wasn't installed, if it actually wasn't. And, I'm not sure what could be done if the roller actually failed.
My focus right now is just getting the car running again. I've got the cam cover removed now, and I can see the springs are still good. It also appears that the cam is good. The four exhaust valves are all closed. I'm quessing there's a good chance they may be okay. The four intake valves are not closed. I can't tell if they are all the way open, or just partially open. Since the cam is out, I assume they should be closed, also. I'm guessing they are all bad. Seems kind of strange to me that all four intake valves would be bent, but not any exhaust valves, just judging on the fact that they're not closed. I should have the head off tomorrow, and find out for sure the condition of the valves.
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My friend........FIND YOUR receipt FOR THE WORK THAT WAS DONE! Take the car back, or at least call them, and try to work it out. YES! You DO HAVE bent valves. Find a better shop in the future, if this is the best you can get. Parts can fail, however, a decent shop WILL cover such problems, also. A couple times of this action, you can bet they will source their parts elsewhere. Good luck!
I do feel the pain here!
I do feel the pain here!
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Just a quick update and I wanted to thank everyone for their input and advice.
I got the head removed and had all four intake valves bent. Luckily, I bought four intake valves on eBay years ago for cheap. I think they were about $20, all new and still packaged. A local machine shop did a fantastic job installing, resurfacing, reseating and cleaning. Grand total for that was $185. I did a lot of "while I'm in there" stuff, including fixing a cracked exhaust manifold that had been bad for years. $25 for the weld repair. I replaced all the heater hoses that are almost impossible to get to without the head removed. I replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses. I ordered the head gasket set and replaced all those seals, including all the camshaft seals, which had been leaking for years. I used a handpump and a 9 volt battery to run several bottles of cleaner through the fuel injectors, and of course replaced those seals with Travis's kit from Rennbay. I replaced the air/oil separator seals, which had been bad for years, and the dipstick tube seal. I replaced the thermostat seal, which was also bad. And, of course the timing belt and balance shaft roller. The entire cost, including the tow bill, was less than I paid for my last set of tires!
I was scared to finally start the car, after getting all that in. But, it fired right up. Instant oil pressure and no oil or coolant leaks. I let it run about 15 minutes, and all was still fine. The idle was even good. I'll test drive it in a little while.
Again, I want to thank everyone who has posted anything related to all these procedures in the past. I used a lot of archive searches, and it definitely helped me through all of this.
Also, Rock, I want to thank you for offering help. I was able to do it on my own, but definitely would have been in touch if I got stuck.
Thanks Rennlist,
Kelly
I got the head removed and had all four intake valves bent. Luckily, I bought four intake valves on eBay years ago for cheap. I think they were about $20, all new and still packaged. A local machine shop did a fantastic job installing, resurfacing, reseating and cleaning. Grand total for that was $185. I did a lot of "while I'm in there" stuff, including fixing a cracked exhaust manifold that had been bad for years. $25 for the weld repair. I replaced all the heater hoses that are almost impossible to get to without the head removed. I replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses. I ordered the head gasket set and replaced all those seals, including all the camshaft seals, which had been leaking for years. I used a handpump and a 9 volt battery to run several bottles of cleaner through the fuel injectors, and of course replaced those seals with Travis's kit from Rennbay. I replaced the air/oil separator seals, which had been bad for years, and the dipstick tube seal. I replaced the thermostat seal, which was also bad. And, of course the timing belt and balance shaft roller. The entire cost, including the tow bill, was less than I paid for my last set of tires!
I was scared to finally start the car, after getting all that in. But, it fired right up. Instant oil pressure and no oil or coolant leaks. I let it run about 15 minutes, and all was still fine. The idle was even good. I'll test drive it in a little while.
Again, I want to thank everyone who has posted anything related to all these procedures in the past. I used a lot of archive searches, and it definitely helped me through all of this.
Also, Rock, I want to thank you for offering help. I was able to do it on my own, but definitely would have been in touch if I got stuck.
Thanks Rennlist,
Kelly
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Hopefully so.
I just drove it around and all still seems fine.
Also, my previous message I said I replaced the balance shaft roller. I meant to say the timing belt tensioner roller. I think my brain is fried from all this.
I just drove it around and all still seems fine.
Also, my previous message I said I replaced the balance shaft roller. I meant to say the timing belt tensioner roller. I think my brain is fried from all this.
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Yes, replaced the head gasket, the camshaft cover gasket, and all the seals and o-rings from the whole headgasket kit.
The other rollers, WP, and front seals are going in at the re-tension of the timing belt.
Thanks again for all the comments and advice,
Kelly
The other rollers, WP, and front seals are going in at the re-tension of the timing belt.
Thanks again for all the comments and advice,
Kelly