Jaak Lepson

Yes ... you may need to raise the pass front of the car to get the bleed hole at the highest point. Make sure the heater is on as well ... may have to rev the car a bit to get the flow going when the thermostat opens.

Do you have a slight leak where air may get in?

potent951turbo

No leaks, my level is always the same but I just can't seem to get it fully bled. The temp. level is always on the quarter mark and never gives me any trouble but everytime I think there is no more air in there I hear that swish of water moving inside the heater core.

Techno Duck

Pete.. read this thread i started on Pelican.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=311173

One of the guys was very nice and wrote up a very detailed how to on wiring a few LED's to come on with the fans. Instead of using the reed type relays i am wondering if it would be better to use a standard 30 amp automotive relay. The reed relay will probably work fine, but i would feel a bit safer with something a little more heavy duty inline to the fans. It is a 25 amp fuse afterall.

Tom R.

sure its not swosshing around in the battery box?

darren1031

Ah, the swooshing in the heater core syndrome.
I thought I had a bad heater core years ago.
I heard a lot of water swooshing around especially
making turns. It even got to the point where water
would splash on my feet by the pedal. Kept thinking
heater core. Decided to tear into things and investigate.
Glovebox was full of water too. It turns out it wasn't
the heater core at all. It was the drain for the A/C
unit. If you remove the tape deck and all that stuff
until you can see the bottom part of the climate control
system, there is a rubber hose that runs from the bottom
of the system to a hole in the body. This hose was clogged
and the unit had filled up with water. Must have been
1/2 gallon in there. Could not find a replacement hose, so I
made my own out of vinyl hose and it works great.

Darren
'87 944S

Scott at Team Harco

I've been following this thread for a few days. I am not getting sufficient heat from my heater. I followed Jaak's procedure last night to try and burp the system of all air. It's as good as it's even been - as far as I can tell - but the heat is still not there from the heater.

Has anyone had experience with the dirty temp sensor mentioned in Clark's Garage? It's listed as the third item under the Troubleshooting item TS-10. Just curious if anyone has fixed their insufficient heat problem this way. Anyone?

Jaak Lepson

Scott ... how about the dampers? Maybe they are not moving quite as much as they should.

Techno Duck

Could be possible that your heater control valve is not working. May want to insure the vacuum line is still connected.

Scott at Team Harco

It could be anything as far as I know. My understanding is that if it fails it fails in the full hot mode. Maybe this is not true for the control valve. I did mess with it a couple of days ago. Vac line is connected but the valve does not seem to hold vacuum (could be a problem ). I put a zip tie around the arm and zipped it in the direction against spring tension. Drove it for a day in this condition. This made things very cold. There was no heat at all. After removing the zip tie - there was a little bit of heat available.

Jaak - I have not looked into the damper. Any tips on what I should be looking for? Again, from what I have read at Clark's this fails in the full hot mode. Is there another possible failure mode? You say it may be out of adjustment. I'll have to see.

Jaak Lepson

When the clip breaks it goes into full heat. I have not worked on my heater as it does work quite well. Maybe remove the clip for the cool season and see if you get full heat.

Scott at Team Harco

Yeah - my heater used to fire flaming sapphire bullets of pure love (never had the opportunity to try that Mahavishnu reference before - not sure it works - but I feel better anyway ) I think after the last waterpump/thermostat change I lost the heat. Kept trying to bleed the coolant system thinking that would fix it but so far, no go. Or maybe it was when I smashed this stupid switch (defrost?) that kept coming on and blowing massive heat.... (see attached)

I hate working under the dash of just about any car. Hopefully, it's easy to access the heater controls there. That is one reason I asked about the air temp sensor. Clark's shows it as being in a really nasty looking location.

Maybe I'll get lucky and it's just the control valve under the hood. Even that looks to be a bit of a pain to replace.

Jaak Lepson

Could be the switch .... play with it by turning it on and off. Check the temp of the air flow with it on and off. I had mine stick a while back and pushing it on/off a few times cleared up the problem.

Scott at Team Harco

Yeah I messed with it for a while. It would not cooperate. It kept coming on when I least wanted it - the middle of summer. I ended up smashing it! Elegant, yes? I don't think it will ever bother me again. Unless it is essential to getting heat in the car...

By the way - that picture was taken about two years ago. That switch hasn't bothered me since about the day after the pic was taken. See above, the elegant solution...

potent951turbo

My swishing of water is definately not the battery box area, b/c it will happen even when that area is dry.


I will have to check this out, however my car doesn't have a/c anymore. Water may have gotten in there somehow though, worth a check.

PeteL

Just because I am a greaseslinger...doesn't mean I "sling grease"... I don't even own a grease gun!