Camber plates Pros/Cons
10-18-2006, 08:30 PM
#17
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Z-man
I have the Racer's Edge camber plates in my car. Between those and the Kokeln A-arms, I could probably slam my camber to something like -40 degrees, if I wanted to! (The Kokeln a-arms have a monoball adjustable end that really makes it easy to adjust camber settings) 
As such, I run a very mild -2.5 degrees of camber.
The reason I went with the camber plates was because the rubber stop on top of the struts was so worn, it needed replacement.
Keep in mind that camber plates may stiffen the car a bit more up front - so you may have a little more understeer than before...
Just my $0.42,
-Z-man.
As such, I run a very mild -2.5 degrees of camber. The reason I went with the camber plates was because the rubber stop on top of the struts was so worn, it needed replacement.
Keep in mind that camber plates may stiffen the car a bit more up front - so you may have a little more understeer than before...
Just my $0.42,
-Z-man.
I still need to get the car up on a rack so i can see what my alignment is. I do know that I'm running more rear camber than front, while i think that is strange, the car is SO neutral, I'm affraid to change anything.
10-18-2006, 11:04 PM
#18
Originally Posted by amjf088
Yes, you must be right, I bought the units from Paragon and they had "Ground Control" stenciled right on them. I have not got to this part of the project yet, but I noticed in trial assembling the Konis to the camber places, there appeared to only be enough thread for the nut at the top of the strut (as opposed to nut and lockwasher). Does anyone recall if they used both the nut and washer or just the nut?
10-19-2006, 12:05 PM
#19
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by Skip Wolfe
I had to machine down the spacers Paragon included with the kit to be able to get enough thread for the strut nut.
10-19-2006, 03:08 PM
#20
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thank you for the answers everyone. I think I will just use the nut and check it frequently and go from there.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
10-19-2006, 10:20 PM
#21
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[QUOTE=Z-man]
Keep in mind that camber plates may stiffen the car a bit more up front - so you may have a little more understeer than before...
QUOTE]
I'll second that. Don't know if it's just from the new camber plates or from upgrading to 375# from and 30mm rear t-bars, but definately had more understeer than previously. Gonna soften the rear sway and see....
Keep in mind that camber plates may stiffen the car a bit more up front - so you may have a little more understeer than before...
QUOTE]
I'll second that. Don't know if it's just from the new camber plates or from upgrading to 375# from and 30mm rear t-bars, but definately had more understeer than previously. Gonna soften the rear sway and see....
10-20-2006, 12:07 PM
#22
Race Director
Originally Posted by sidsport
I'll second that. Don't know if it's just from the new camber plates or from upgrading to 375# from and 30mm rear t-bars, but definately had more understeer than previously. Gonna soften the rear sway and see....
-Z
10-21-2006, 12:06 AM
#23
Drifting
I had to machine down the spacers Paragon included with the kit to be able to get enough thread for the strut nut.
10-21-2006, 01:24 PM
#24
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Z-man, as your Homer would say, "Duh!" Stiffen the rear is what I meant. Before y'all get worked up over the Paragon camber plates, make sure they're available. I waited and waited and gave up and got some from Lindsey instead (same price). His come with assorted spacers to get the right amount strut thread....
10-23-2006, 09:56 AM
#26
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I've been running the Paragon (GC) plates for 6 years now, very happy w/ them. If running the required pinned style of camberplates, I'd just run the fixed KLA ones.
Nut on top of strut rod should be a locknut, BTW...
Nut on top of strut rod should be a locknut, BTW...
