Coolant system pressure tester info needed
#16
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Originally Posted by shiners780
Ya know.............now you got me thinking............
Would an expansion tank cap seal completely with the spring mechanism removed? If so...
What if I took an old cap, drilled a hole in it, JB welded a short aluminum adapter (tube) onto it. Then I could take my Mytee Brake Bleeder, remove the brake reservoir cap from it (use a hose clamp to reattach later,) and clamp the "new" radiator cap onto the hose. The Mytee Brake Bleeder could double as a cooling system pressurizer.
It's simple, cost probably $10 or less, and one less tool to haul to the track.
Think it'd work???
Would an expansion tank cap seal completely with the spring mechanism removed? If so...
What if I took an old cap, drilled a hole in it, JB welded a short aluminum adapter (tube) onto it. Then I could take my Mytee Brake Bleeder, remove the brake reservoir cap from it (use a hose clamp to reattach later,) and clamp the "new" radiator cap onto the hose. The Mytee Brake Bleeder could double as a cooling system pressurizer.
It's simple, cost probably $10 or less, and one less tool to haul to the track.
Think it'd work???
#17
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Originally Posted by xsboost90
how does that work? every car ive ever worked on had a pressure of 13-15 on the cap. early and late cars all supercede to the same waterpump, same resevoir, same block, head, hoses- besides a few jumper hoses and maybe the heater core they are the same. What causes a difference in pressure- does the antifreeze expand more in a late car?
at that time i had no water leaks.
i tested the cap to 13psi and it failed so i replaced it with a 13psi cap and had leaks all over.
i put the original cap back on after checking it to 7psi, which it held and had no more leaks.
a little checking showed two separate caps, one about 7psi and the other 13, for the later cars.
i seem to recall the later cars would have one of the fans on for a bit to keep from bursting hoses when shut off.
when i put the 6 bl fans/shroud/radiator in the 84944, after shutting the engine off, the drivers side fan ran, pulling the temp down, running at low speed.
87951
#18
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Originally Posted by xsboost90
how does that work? every car ive ever worked on had a pressure of 13-15 on the cap. early and late cars all supercede to the same waterpump, same resevoir, same block, head, hoses- besides a few jumper hoses and maybe the heater core they are the same. What causes a difference in pressure- does the antifreeze expand more in a late car?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item4
#19
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I purchased a Stant pressure tester, got it today and it works great. Of course, now I have a couple questions.
My coolant was totally drained and I want to flush the system before filling with new coolant. I filled the expansion tank with plain water, pumped the tester up to 7psi and bled out the air. The water in the expansion tank went all the way down, so I figured I'd add more water so I wasn't pumping air into the system. I added more water, pumped back up to 7psi, rebled, everything cool so far.
Start the car and let it warm up, the water starts puking out the overflow hose on the expansion tank. So my question is, should the water level be between the min/max marks on the expansion tank when the car is cool or when it's warmed up? Also, should the water level be between the min/max marks on the expansion tank when the system is pressurized or not pressurized?
Should I just let it puke out what it doesn't want and consider it done?
Thanks in advance!!!
My coolant was totally drained and I want to flush the system before filling with new coolant. I filled the expansion tank with plain water, pumped the tester up to 7psi and bled out the air. The water in the expansion tank went all the way down, so I figured I'd add more water so I wasn't pumping air into the system. I added more water, pumped back up to 7psi, rebled, everything cool so far.
Start the car and let it warm up, the water starts puking out the overflow hose on the expansion tank. So my question is, should the water level be between the min/max marks on the expansion tank when the car is cool or when it's warmed up? Also, should the water level be between the min/max marks on the expansion tank when the system is pressurized or not pressurized?
Should I just let it puke out what it doesn't want and consider it done?
Thanks in advance!!!
#20
I'm pretty sure the min line is when cold and the max line when hot. If you fill to the max line when cold I believe it's normal for expansion to push some out when it warms up.
#21
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When the car is cold/unpressurized. Coolant should be between the min/max mark. Anyother time, may not be a good tell/tale.
If its "puking" coolant, just let it puke out, look at your level after all is cool, keep an eye on your gauges, all will be good. Generally.
You did test your cap at the 1.5 bar limit.........right? 1bar = 14.5 psi. It should fall very, very close to this. AND, you ARE using the 1.5 bar cap?
I test/pressurize my na's at around the 10 psi mark, and up to the 14/15 psi mark (my hoses/lines/heater core are all relatively new . It can and will stress the weak points of the system, but you'll sure find out where the leaks are at if externally visable. My system is a 1 bar system. Read the instructions that come with the stant, and it will describe some of the tests you can and should run.
If its "puking" coolant, just let it puke out, look at your level after all is cool, keep an eye on your gauges, all will be good. Generally.
You did test your cap at the 1.5 bar limit.........right? 1bar = 14.5 psi. It should fall very, very close to this. AND, you ARE using the 1.5 bar cap?
I test/pressurize my na's at around the 10 psi mark, and up to the 14/15 psi mark (my hoses/lines/heater core are all relatively new . It can and will stress the weak points of the system, but you'll sure find out where the leaks are at if externally visable. My system is a 1 bar system. Read the instructions that come with the stant, and it will describe some of the tests you can and should run.