M Danger

My shifter is loose, Im going to tighten it up with the recently mentioned method. However im not sure if this is related to it or not. But shifting into gears sometimes it tough. and some times when coming to a stop and shifting into first, it doesnt go. atleast until i come to a stop. and like second and fourth, there is a distinct "notch" it hits when i put it into gear.
I think the clutch is fully disenaging. But I do have to push it to the floor.

billthe3

My shifter does that too, but since I've only had the car for > 3 months I just figured that was normal. Its makes it a real pain in the *** to drive fast when you shift about as fast into second as a big truck. I've figure for first I can't get it into gear until I slow below ~30mph when I'm coming to a stop, so I was thinking it was some mechanical lockout.

adrian_jaye

This was the first sign that my clucth was going.

1st a beetch, 2/3/4 all fine

does the notchyness go after a few gear changes from cold ? if so then this is normal...

if not

try the follwoing

1> drain the transoil and refill with OEM recommendewd
2> apparently Swepco is good, never used it though.
3> check the cluctch

alordofchaos

I've read good (and bad) about Redline, Swepco, Mobile, and Royal Purple synthetic gear oils here on Rennlist.

I'm using Redline synthetic in mine and I could feel a huge difference right away.

billthe3

/me adds yet more things on the list of stuff to do

M Danger

Local Napa sells royal purple, I might give that a shot, dont knwo where to get redline locally

FRporscheman

I've had the same problem with my 968 since getting it. When cold, the damn stick won't even go into 1st or 2nd. At all. And if I had left it parked in gear, it won't come out.

I thought, well OK, I'll just park it in 1st, so I can hold the clutch, turn it on, drive off and let it warm up. But when I park it in 1st and try to turn it on, the car lurches forward. This means that when it's cold, the clutch won't disengage all the way.

Change your trans fluid, but also make sure you change your clutch fluid and bleed it properly. I bet those will help a whole lot. Get a Motive Powerbleeder. Don't even bother bleeding a clutch or brake without it. HTH!

tinman944

I think you guys are having Syncro problems more than anything. that and leave the fast shifting to the ricers...it does no good to shift fast.....smooth shifting will make you a faster driver .

M Danger

well i notice when i shift in to second,maybe third( not sure about the other gears) at around 2-2500 rpm i get like a bouncing. is that a sign of the clutch going out also?

KuHL 951

Are you hearing a clunk on decelleration and on/off throttle? If so your clutch is going out and banging on the limp home tabs. If not I bet your clutch slave or master cylinder is acting up...the problem is always more obviuos as the weather gets colder as the seals shrink. If you do a good pressure bleed of the system and it feels good for a day or less but the problem returns quickly you need to replace both master and slave before you get caught in a failure situation and the pedal sticks on the floor. replacing both is easy and a Motive bleeder is the best way to do it. If the car 'bounces' or bucks when shifting you could have a bad trans mount(s).

M Danger

no, no clunk, just some bucking when the clutch is let all the way out

KuHL 951

I hate to tell you but it will buck until all the rubber center is gone between the metal tabs. It might be time to start thinking about a Sachs kit. I don't know what year your car is or how many miles but my 83 made it to 161K before the bucking became a clunk. Another thing to consider, if it is the clutch the wear on the ring and pinion in the TA can really suffer if you don't catch it early. Usually a clutch hydraulic problem won't make it buck because the clutch slips more trying to engage. What year is your car?

M Danger

86 951 with 110K on it. Actually I have a cup clutch someone gave me a long time ago, ill take a look and see if its worth putting in. but i hope it will hold out a little longer, as i have other htings id like to get to first

M Danger

I think the slave cylinder was replaced

KuHL 951

That throws out the rubber centered clutch theory if it's a turbo. Try the pressure bleeding and see if it's still notchy at first. Can you can borrow a Motive bleeder? It hasn't been brought up yet and I'm sure you have checked but does your shift lever move side to side much or feel loose at all? When I bought my 1st 951 the shift lever pin was so worn I had to pull up the leather boot to get enough travel to get into 2nd or reverse. Now I have about 1/8" side play after the Dietersmotors fix using replaceable nylon bushings, trueing up the shift tube, and a new shift lever.