Is it possible to adjust rear camber without affecting toe?
08-30-2006, 05:26 PM
#16
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I like using a machinist ruler that measures down to 1/64", fishing line, two milk crates, two 80" alluminum I beams (like Home Depot sells for window frames), and duct tape. One can measure from the fishing line to the wheel edges with the ruler and get individual wheel toe settings. This allows one to figure out front toe, rear toe and thrust. It's good to start with a recent alingment to "fine tune" this home made alignment system and verify the specs and make sure that one can get repeatable results, before attempting to make adjustments.
To make adjustmets, I have to take the wheels off, make adjustments, then drive the car around the block to settle the suspension, and bring it back into the garage to recheck the final settings. I got the idea from whatching race teams at Infineon Raceway making alingments to their open wheel racers in less than 60 seconds!!!
To make adjustmets, I have to take the wheels off, make adjustments, then drive the car around the block to settle the suspension, and bring it back into the garage to recheck the final settings. I got the idea from whatching race teams at Infineon Raceway making alingments to their open wheel racers in less than 60 seconds!!!
08-30-2006, 06:47 PM
#17
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Where do you string the fishing line?
I just do overall toe measurements; have to drive it to confirm that thrust is zeroed. As with Trucho, I raise, remove wheels if needed (usually, in the back, but rarely in the front), then bounce and roll to settle it in my garage.
I just do overall toe measurements; have to drive it to confirm that thrust is zeroed. As with Trucho, I raise, remove wheels if needed (usually, in the back, but rarely in the front), then bounce and roll to settle it in my garage.
08-30-2006, 07:44 PM
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[QUOTE=924RACR]Where do you string the fishing line? [QUOTE]
Here's how I do it:
1) Place a milk crate in front of the front bumber (but not necessarily touching it) and duct tape the 80" I-beam to it (center it a much as possible, but suprisingly enough it won't matter when it's all said and done). Place something heavy on the milk crate, e.g. a tool box, so that it won't slide around.
2) Place the second milk crate behind the rear bumber and duct tape the sencond I-beam on it (similar to as done on #1 above).
3) now run the fishing line along the sides of the car from the front I-beam to the rear I-beam.
4) The fishing line will be parallel to the car, as long as you keep it real close ( a couple of 1/64") from each tire.
5) now to measure the toe at each individual wheel, measure from the fishing line to the front and then the rear of each wheel rim edge.
6) to adjust the rear toe, I find that using the toe tool is not really necessary, but using a rubber mallet and a scribe is very helpful.
Example, measurements at the rear axle (front to rear of wheel): driver's rear wheel 7/64" and 5/64", and passenger rear wheel 9/64" and 6/64". Gives a rear driver's toe setting of -2/64" and a rear passenger toe setting of -3/64"; a total rear toe-in of 5/64" (just a tad over 1/16"); and a thurst of 1/64" to the left.
Here's how I do it:
1) Place a milk crate in front of the front bumber (but not necessarily touching it) and duct tape the 80" I-beam to it (center it a much as possible, but suprisingly enough it won't matter when it's all said and done). Place something heavy on the milk crate, e.g. a tool box, so that it won't slide around.
2) Place the second milk crate behind the rear bumber and duct tape the sencond I-beam on it (similar to as done on #1 above).
3) now run the fishing line along the sides of the car from the front I-beam to the rear I-beam.
4) The fishing line will be parallel to the car, as long as you keep it real close ( a couple of 1/64") from each tire.
5) now to measure the toe at each individual wheel, measure from the fishing line to the front and then the rear of each wheel rim edge.
6) to adjust the rear toe, I find that using the toe tool is not really necessary, but using a rubber mallet and a scribe is very helpful.
Example, measurements at the rear axle (front to rear of wheel): driver's rear wheel 7/64" and 5/64", and passenger rear wheel 9/64" and 6/64". Gives a rear driver's toe setting of -2/64" and a rear passenger toe setting of -3/64"; a total rear toe-in of 5/64" (just a tad over 1/16"); and a thurst of 1/64" to the left.
08-31-2006, 10:16 AM
#19
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Ah, OK. Basically just like stringing the car, but with the added convenience of the i-beams.
One concern I see with your method - it appears to presume the same track front/rear (if you're using the tires or rims as reference point)? Is this the case with the 944? It isn't on the 924's... and often track cars will run different tracks as well...
One concern I see with your method - it appears to presume the same track front/rear (if you're using the tires or rims as reference point)? Is this the case with the 944? It isn't on the 924's... and often track cars will run different tracks as well...
08-31-2006, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 924RACR
Ah, OK. Basically just like stringing the car, but with the added convenience of the i-beams.
One concern I see with your method - it appears to presume the same track front/rear (if you're using the tires or rims as reference point)? Is this the case with the 944? It isn't on the 924's... and often track cars will run different tracks as well...
One concern I see with your method - it appears to presume the same track front/rear (if you're using the tires or rims as reference point)? Is this the case with the 944? It isn't on the 924's... and often track cars will run different tracks as well...
Also, this method assumes that the car has not been in accident that has damaged the chassis, or that it has a bent wheel, or... that's why it's important to begin with a known quantity as a baseline, start with a fresh alignment and see if you can replicate the specs on the print out with the home alignment technique.
