KuHL 951

I tried different bits until I found the first one that slips through the damaged bore and turned by hand. I checked to see if it was square to the shift rod. If you stage the drill bits starting with the first size that fits through and going up from there in small steps each previous hole works as a good guide until you reach the final size. I then took a #600 wet/dry paper wrapped on a split dowel chucked in the drill to semi-polish the final hole. I took a C-clamp, wooden wedges, and anchored the shift rod down tight to the tunnel housing and used a 1/2" chuck drill motor at a very slow speed. The drill never grabbbed or gouged once using 1/64" steps. I'm sure a drill press would be better but unless he's in the middle of a clutch job it is just too much work to pull it off the car for this repair only. I actually bought extra bushings thinking they would wear out quickly but they are holding up great with white lithium grease so far. Nothing makes the car feel better than fixing a really sloppy shifter; I could barely get my car into reverse. This repair is Viagra for the shifter

Granite 944

For what its worth. I've removed 2 shifter rods from my different cars, and have NOT had to remove the transmission to do so (these 2 cars, I had cut the slug off the forward end of rod, and replaced with a blank,welded on,and drilled to size.

I've also done the drilling while in place on one of these cars, and had no problem doing so, and used the brass bushing method. Technique in drilling/reaming, and the correct tools to do such, is the key. In other words, can ya drill a straight hole, and do ya know how to, in such a situation?
Are you familiar with "core drills"? reamers? drill bushings? Thats, the key.

Shifter pin must be re-worked also, to repair the "hourglass" wear in it.

...............Good luck!