jbrill

i dont think its the clutch, today i ripped that area of the car apart, measured the clutch as it says in the manual , 18mm is a new clutch and 32mm it should be replaced, mine was 23mm so its ok. i put a new slave cylinder in today cuz my old ones\'s boot was ripped. new one did nothing other than make it a pain in the *** to bleed ( its not even fully blead yet and i was using a suction gun and everythign people can chime in some tips on this that would be great) any ways after doing all the work today i took it for another drive, same problem drivign slow is fine to shift gears, but any thing around 3000rpm + it sticks in gear, then once it is finally comes in gear i have to double clutch to get into the next one. im very doubtful it is the clutch itself its makin alot of noise in the rear, i have to check tranny fluid, could low tranny fluid cause this? what else in the rear of the car could be the problem.?

also today while under the car i wiggled the tranny and it moved a fair bit side to side and up and down, i know its supposed to "float" as in no solid mounts but how much play is to much? it felt like it might cause the noises im hering or be a contributing factor

baldheadracing

When you inspected, did you see what the rubber center looked like? You're still describing classic rubber destruction (RDCS - I like that! :-), but it could be something else. What, I can't think of right now ...

Slave cylinder: if you replace the slave without replacing the master, you'll almost invariably have to replace the slave and the master again within six months. You may be the exception that proves the rule, but if the fluid you first bled out wasn't beautiful, and you don't change the master, then buy Super7 lottery tickets :-) ...

As for bleeding, you have to get the back of the car higher than the front, and passenger side higher than the driver's side. The baffles in the brake fluid reservoir demand this, otherwise you'll just be introducing more air into the system. Bleeding the clutch/slave is a freakin' PITA even if you do this. The last time I (well, Markus :-) replaced the clutch master/slave, we bled then, then I bled again a week later, then again a week or so after that to get the last little bubble. (Also had to adjust the free play every time.)

Tranny mount: Yup, they're like that. The mount is a single point (two bolts) right at the top of the transaxle, and it 'floats' the transaxle. Put in a solid mount and you'll learn why. :-) I have a semi-solid mount just because I don't like the feel of everything moving around in the rear when I launch in autocross.

Good luck!

Mike C.

Dude - you're in D-Nile. It's not the clutch facing causing the problem; it's the rubber center....

RM512

On the transaxle bellhousing there is a rectagular rubber plug. Remove this, reach inside and try to move the drive shaft. If you can rotate the drive shaft more than 1 degree in either direction, you can bet that the rubber center is toast.

As shown in photos in previous posts, you can still have plenty of friction material left on the disk, (what you measured) but the rubber center will be shredded.

Legoland951

Do what RM512 said. If you insist on ignoring others here, we won't waste our time posting. I have seen the same symptom about 20 times on different cars. The rubber center is the highest possibility and easily tested by the procedure last posted.

jbrill

ok will try the drive shaft tecnique tomorrow

jbrill

i drive the car a short disance today just to feel the symptopms once again ( i did not drive it hard at all) and im beggining to think more and more that it might be what everyone sugegsted, the clutch.
i will prbably be doing the work myself, as an 18 year old i dont really have the funds to pay a shop. ive done many clutches before on friends cars, but have never done one on a porsche. how ddifficult is it, can i do it in my drive way? approx how long does it take? and mosty importantly where can i find a clutch kit for a good price!

as you can imagine, im pretty piossed right now having only owned the car for less than two months! any help/advice/ideas would be appreciated

clouddomino

That's what happened with my '44 to so don't feel so bad. You may want to look around for clutch kits. Lindsey racing has some performance kits, but they are a bit pricey. I think centerforce makes a reasonably priced set-up, but you'd have to check into it. It's been over a year since I've done any clutch research. As far as doing it in your driveway... It's possible if you have enough jack stands. The tranny has to come down with the torque tube so you can move the bell housing back to get to the clutch, if I'm not mistaken. I know you might as well check the flywheel too while you've got it all apart.

jbrill

just checked the driveshaft idea, it moved a fair bit about 5 degrees or so, guess the rubber is toast. ive decided to cough up the dough and just let a shop do it. guess i dont get exhaust and rims for a while

Bill Lucas

To do the clutch you have to drop the exhaust and the transmission, unhook a whole bunch of sensors and then move the driveshaft back and take off all those old bolts to get to the clutch. Be prepared to buy some parts you didn't expect because cars this old don't come apart easily.

You can do it in the driveway. You'll want SUV jackstands or higher because you'll need room to operate under there.

Go to Clark's Garage site and you'll find the complete procedure. A recent issue of Excellence magazine also had a nice write-up on the procedure. Good luck.

jbrill

well i thought it was the clutch up until about 20 minutes ago when i re bled the clutch, although there was still a bit of airt comign out of the vaccum pump i decided to try driving it, it was good for about the 1st 2 blocks then when bakc to hard to get into gear and having to double clutch. i have checked for fluid leaks down the whole sytem and thje resovoir is not loosing fluid, however every time i go to bleed the sytem i get a ton of air. its as if there is air being sucked in from some place in the hydraulic system. any thoughts?

RM512

Check for leaks inside the car; where the rod from the clutch pedal goes through the firewall.

As Bill stated go here: www.clarks-garage.com and click on shop manual. Take your time, follow the procedures and you CAN do the clutch. Be sure to re-surface the flywheel.

Do NOT discount Legoland951's advice; he has a lot experience with these cars.

jbrill

when i accelerate and trhen let off the gas in gear i also get a wierd sound from the rear of the car. anyone have any idea what this could be? and if so could it be related to rubber donut failure?

Legoland951

Its the clutch center broken part hitting the disc friction plate part. You are describing a classic donut failure if your description is correct.

Mike C.

"when i accelerate and trhen let off the gas in gear i also get a wierd sound from the rear of the car. anyone have any idea what this could be? and if so could it be related to rubber donut failure?"

Yes, excessive noise at the rear on decelleration can be caused by the rubber donut failure.