Surface Rust! Gotta Stop It!
07-12-2006, 02:40 AM
#16
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Originally Posted by KuHL 951
I hate to call you on this one but that won't work. Cathodic protection requires 4 things to work: anode, cathode, metallic return path, and electrolyte. Autos don't have the electrolyte unless you park the car underwater. I would clean the rusted area to bright metal, apply a layer of zinc rich primer, POR-15, or aluminum epoxy mastic, and top coat with a spray urethane from a can. POR-15 is not a rust converter but a rust encapsulator that still requires a good surface prep. A rust converter doesn't 'convert rust' unless we think turning it from red to black means something. Every study I've seen on rust converters resulted in poorer surface prep for repair coatings and the repairs disbonded sooner due to the weak coating bond at the interface. White Metal (abrasive blast) or Power Tool Cleaning (steel wire brush) followed by a good solvent wash (acetone) would be my first choice for repairs to small sections of a galvanized chassis.
Yep, what Steve said.
07-12-2006, 05:46 AM
#17
Drifting
por15 is alright I guess, I'm coating my battery box with it. It will only stick good if you prep surface correctly. when I painted the battery box on my old car with por15 it peeled off the spots that still had the rubber coating. It does not chip however becausewhenit dries it's like a thin plastic bag boded to the surfaced of the metal.
por15 also requires you to use their own "metal prep" which is just a rust convertor but you should sand as much of the rust as you can. sometimes it's hard to get all the rust off even with an electric sander.
por15 also requires you to use their own "metal prep" which is just a rust convertor but you should sand as much of the rust as you can. sometimes it's hard to get all the rust off even with an electric sander.
07-12-2006, 07:43 AM
#18
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Steve
I agree! What I did back then was to wire-brush all the loose rust off...and I only did this on surface rusting....anything more got cut out and a new panel installed. The rust-reformer-type products are not good to use if you do nothing to the loose rust! BUT...on the areas that had only surface rusting it did seem to work well for me! I also did multiple applications prior to prime/paint. Never had an issue with the paint not sticking either.
I agree! What I did back then was to wire-brush all the loose rust off...and I only did this on surface rusting....anything more got cut out and a new panel installed. The rust-reformer-type products are not good to use if you do nothing to the loose rust! BUT...on the areas that had only surface rusting it did seem to work well for me! I also did multiple applications prior to prime/paint. Never had an issue with the paint not sticking either.
