MyBlackCar

I am trying to remove the head studs to but to no avail. I used the double nut locking technique, but both nuts turn when I twist counterclockwise. Any suggestions?

I also used Liquid Wrench in the stud holes with a few whacks with a 3lb sledge. Is Liquid wrench suppose to turn to black sludge when left exposed to air?

Claus Groth

I presume that you are not going to reuse them. Therefore it is not necessary to protect the threads from damage. There are stud removal sockets available or use a pipe wrench. If you do use the pipe wrench, don't scratch the block surface. You might even cut 1/4" thick plywood to fit over the block.

Jeremy Himsel

I've removed 50 of them using plain old craftsman stud removers. I've never broke any of them and haven't used heat. If you're doing it in the car (where many of them snap) be sure to use a long breaker bar and apply increasingly gradual force to get it to break free. Hammering the stud remover on is enough to "shock" the threadloock. The worst thing you can do is sideload the stud which is very easy to do when the motor is on a 45 degree angle.

MyBlackCar

Good to know. I will try these suggestions out and see how it goes.

Granite 944

There are several types of "stud" removers. Most will work just fine IF used properly. Most WILL scar the body of the stud also, just like if you used a pipe wrench. So, plan on replacing them if you remove them this way. Clause brought up a REALLY good point, so PAY CLOSE ATTENTION to it. Protect the top of the block from scaring from WHATEVER tool you use. Whatever tool you use, you should get it as close to the top of the block as possible (protecting the top of block of course), so as to get the least amount of twisting action thruout the bolt body. A large breaker bar (3/4", with a good adapter to 1/2", is my choice. Leverage is your friend, and a decent feel, even as scary as it can be.........is good also. Break one, and well.........ya got another set of problems. Good luck!

Tom M'Guinn

The Snap-On collet-style stud remover is the best tool in my opinion. It also helps to use a T-bar breaker bar (pushing and pulling at the same time) on the stud remover, to prevent pulling the stud to one side and increasing the chance of breaking a stud.

yellowline

Soak them with PB, turn them out with a pipe wrench, but don't turn on the threaded portion. I removed and reused mine with good results, but my head gasket bit the dust overnight- it never overheated.

shmucklebuckle

Step 1. Remove engine
Step 2. Install new engine

Isn't that the way everyone does it?