Clutch Confusion: wear/engagement point/ more?
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Drifting
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Clutch Confusion: wear/engagement point/ more?
I'll start from the begining here. A few months ago, I really began noticing how far my clutch pedal came off the floor before engaging on my 1989 S2 (I mean that when leaving a stop, The pedal was approximately 6-7 inches off the floor before the car would move). I figure, the car is 16 years old, and has a 100k miles on it, its probably over due for a clutch change. A couple months ago I finally got on my knees with a scale and sure enough, I had about 32mm gap from the clutch fork to the window edge, probably due for a clutch job. This weekend, I'm tearing apart my clutch, and I expect to find a rotted out, but holding together rubber centered clutch thats worn past the rivets. . . I don't. I find a reletively new looking Sach's spring centered clutch with an average of .280 inches across the disk thickness. I wonder, maybe it is worn down so I measure the new one (Sachs spring centered) and I find the thickness of it averages .310 inches across the thickness.
Now for my confusion: Is that much wear (.030") enough to translate to the 30mm gap at the inspection hole? Is it enough to need to replace the clutch? should I put the old one back in?
If .030 wear isn't enough to warrent using the new parts, what is causing the pedal to engage 3/4 the way out?
Much thanks.
Now for my confusion: Is that much wear (.030") enough to translate to the 30mm gap at the inspection hole? Is it enough to need to replace the clutch? should I put the old one back in?
If .030 wear isn't enough to warrent using the new parts, what is causing the pedal to engage 3/4 the way out?
Much thanks.
#2
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You can adjust the height of pedal engagement on the back of the pedal itself. There is an adjustment on the master cylinder arm.
Since you are in there, I would be replacing everything, especially your bearings.
Since you are in there, I would be replacing everything, especially your bearings.
#3
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I wish I knew about the pedal height adjustment before. . . lots of searching and only found a 'pre-load' adjustment for the helper spring
How does that explain the large gap at the inspection hole? my speculation is the aftermarket clutch disk and surfaced flywheel (if they did that) gave a new nominal. Does that sound reasonable?
As far as replacing things, I plan on replacing the rear main seal, pilot bearing, TO bearing, TOB sleave, fork-shaft bearings, fork shaft, and pressure plate. I was just unsure as to whether or not I should re-use the disk. I think I'll put the new one in and sell the used one on ebay unless someone here wants it.
How does that explain the large gap at the inspection hole? my speculation is the aftermarket clutch disk and surfaced flywheel (if they did that) gave a new nominal. Does that sound reasonable?
As far as replacing things, I plan on replacing the rear main seal, pilot bearing, TO bearing, TOB sleave, fork-shaft bearings, fork shaft, and pressure plate. I was just unsure as to whether or not I should re-use the disk. I think I'll put the new one in and sell the used one on ebay unless someone here wants it.
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Both my S2's (one now sold lo these many years) supposedly have newish clutches and both have very high engagement points. I adjusted the cabrio's clutch rod but it did not help much and now I feel like I'm not quite getting as much travel as I should. One was a Sachs spring center, my current one I'm pretty sure is an OEM rubber center.
-Joel.
-Joel.