Bri Bro

I would guess it is the ignition switch, everything points at it. I am assuming that pin 1 was not connected to any other point and not shorted to pin 4. Is this correct?

Good news is that the switch isn't expensive. It does take some doing to replace one but they have a history of failures and sometime it results in a fire. Not a bad thing to replace it after 20 years of service.

Yabo

With 1 shorted to 4 on the alarm plug, the DME relay should have 12VDC on pin 86 and you should hear the first DME relay turn on. With the first DME relay on, you should measure 12VDC at pin 87 of the DME relay. When you turn off the ignition, pin 87 should go to 0VDC.

that is with the dme relay out right? whaqt is the 'first' dme relay you refer too? and i check pin 86 with teh ignition on right?

Yabo

yeah it wasn't shorted.. still seems strange to me. i'm going to get my alternator tested int he morning to be sure it is functioning.. then I guess replace the ignition switch.

Could it just be the ignition switch relay? or is it more likely to be the switch itself?

i hate this, i'm going to kill it.

Bri Bro

That is with the DME relay in or out. There are two relay inside the DME relay, the first is controlled by the ignition switch (with the alarm unit in series to the ignition switch) and the second by the DME. Here is a link that explains it, look under DME relay.
http://frwilk.com/944dme/

Bri Bro

Relax, take a deep breath and remember it is a machine and you will solve the problem. Testing the alt is a good idea, it will save you a lot of money if it is good. The damage to the ignition switch could have happened with the jumpers, they appear to be heavy gauge wire without a fuse. There is no ignition switch relay. You may have connected the ignition switch to a ground lead and the switch was the weak link in the connection. I always use a fuse inline when I jumper connections that connect directly to the battery to avoid an overload situation.

Yabo

do you happen to knowwhat the two wire connector that comes off the dme harness. just behidn teh dme plug? the wires are brown and brown/white. mine doesnt' go to anything

Bri Bro

That is the connection for the code plugs for other countries. It is open for the US. Look at the last two post I made, I added some info to them.

Source for the ignition switch.
http://www.paragon-products.com/prod...613.012.00.htm

Yabo

Got the alternator checked.. supposedly its crapped out. It has a short and is drawing even when not spinning.

My theory - the 3-4 volts is the draw its pulling when teh key is off. This might be usually enough to keep the DME relay energized, not allowing it to trip off and the fuel pump keeps running.

When the car is run and then shut off, the voltage draw of everything (cooling fans, spark coil, fuel pump, etc) is enough to lower the voltage draw enoguh that the DME trips and turns the fuel pump off correctly. Also, as I said if i turn the key on and then off, in addition to teh fuel pump running the warning light is on, a little dimmer than usual. That would probably be the voltage draw by the alternator as well.

I'll order a remanufactured alternator on monday. Hopefully that is all of this issue!