Clutch will not disengage!
05-25-2006, 03:39 AM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Clutch will not disengage!
Alright here is the scoop. I just put in a new Feramic (sindered iron + graphite)sprung hub disc which is 7.69mm uncompressed and took out the Kevlar disc which was 6.68mm I assume compressed as well (since I measured it out of the car). The Kevlar was not holding the power and the car is not all the way back together yet, but far enough where I would hate to rip apart again.
I have Markus Blaszaks modified pressurep plate where he regrinds the fulcrum points on the pressure plate.
Problem is the clutch fork hits the end of the bellhousing inspection hole and, when the slave cylinder is removed there is a 1/4" amonut of play before the fork hits the throw-out bearing. I tired turning the crank with the car in 1st and clutch all the way depressed and it locks against the trans.
When the slave is at rest and bolted in I have 7/16" play till the fork hit the bellhousing and when the slave is unbolted and fork is touching the T/O bearing I have 11/16". I am confident that with the extra 1/4" of fork slop removed the clutch will disengage properly.
The slave and master cyl's are new and I bleed the slave 6 times with a Motive power bleeder and the pedal is set at 1/8" of play.
Any tips??
I know K-bit had a worn thrust bearing and I will be royally pissed if that is my case, but I have had zero signs of such a thing thus far.
TIA!
I have Markus Blaszaks modified pressurep plate where he regrinds the fulcrum points on the pressure plate.
Problem is the clutch fork hits the end of the bellhousing inspection hole and, when the slave cylinder is removed there is a 1/4" amonut of play before the fork hits the throw-out bearing. I tired turning the crank with the car in 1st and clutch all the way depressed and it locks against the trans.
When the slave is at rest and bolted in I have 7/16" play till the fork hit the bellhousing and when the slave is unbolted and fork is touching the T/O bearing I have 11/16". I am confident that with the extra 1/4" of fork slop removed the clutch will disengage properly.
The slave and master cyl's are new and I bleed the slave 6 times with a Motive power bleeder and the pedal is set at 1/8" of play.
Any tips??
I know K-bit had a worn thrust bearing and I will be royally pissed if that is my case, but I have had zero signs of such a thing thus far.
TIA!
05-25-2006, 05:58 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
No, it has the protruding hub on the one side that faces the pressure plate.
I am not sure of this is a fix or a badndaid, bit would it be feasible to weld on extended little feet off the clutch fork that mates up to the throw out bearing to make up for this 1/4" gap.
This is the disc I have except mine has the full-face feramic that is pictured to the left.
I am not sure of this is a fix or a badndaid, bit would it be feasible to weld on extended little feet off the clutch fork that mates up to the throw out bearing to make up for this 1/4" gap.
This is the disc I have except mine has the full-face feramic that is pictured to the left.
05-25-2006, 02:02 PM
#4
Race Car
With this statement from you: When the slave is at rest and bolted in I have 7/16" play till the fork hit the bellhousing and when the slave is unbolted and fork is touching the T/O bearing I have 11/16"., don't you mean there is 11/16 BOLTED and 7/16 UNBOLTED? If what you are stating is true, then just by bolting the clutch slave, the clutch fork is depresed 1/4 inch. That would cause the clutch to slip and not lock up.
" have Markus Blaszaks modified pressurep plate where he regrinds the fulcrum points on the pressure plate." There is no "fulcrum point" on the pressure plate. The throw out bearing sits on the pressure plate and the clutch fork "forked" end sits on the throw out bearing and does not contact the pressure plate directly ANYWHERE so I am not sure what you are saying. Did he grind the shift fork or the throw out bearing? In which case its not good.
" have Markus Blaszaks modified pressurep plate where he regrinds the fulcrum points on the pressure plate." There is no "fulcrum point" on the pressure plate. The throw out bearing sits on the pressure plate and the clutch fork "forked" end sits on the throw out bearing and does not contact the pressure plate directly ANYWHERE so I am not sure what you are saying. Did he grind the shift fork or the throw out bearing? In which case its not good.
05-25-2006, 03:47 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
No what I stated is true, when the slave is unbolted and I have the 11/16" gap I can literally move /the fork back and forth with my hand between the 11/16" and 7/16" positions...hence the 1/4" gap. Whne the slave is bolted up this obviously takes up the 1/4" of sloppy free play and I am left with the remaining 7/16" of travel to work with which is not enough to disengage the clutch.
You are correct in saying if when bolting on my slave I depressed the or moved the T/O bearing out 1/4" I would not be fully releasing the clutch causing it to slip. However the fork does NOT make contact with the T/O bearing till I take up the 1/4" freeplay which leaves me with the mere 7/16" to work with.
The fulcrum points (changing mech leverage) I was speaking of is all internal...you cannot see the difference on the outisde. I seen a diagram that better explains this I will see if I can find it.
You are correct in saying if when bolting on my slave I depressed the or moved the T/O bearing out 1/4" I would not be fully releasing the clutch causing it to slip. However the fork does NOT make contact with the T/O bearing till I take up the 1/4" freeplay which leaves me with the mere 7/16" to work with.
The fulcrum points (changing mech leverage) I was speaking of is all internal...you cannot see the difference on the outisde. I seen a diagram that better explains this I will see if I can find it.
05-25-2006, 04:37 PM
#6
Race Car
Ok the first part makes more sense now. When you said "clutch fork hits the end of the bellhousing inspection hole", I thought its physically hitting the bellhousing at the END of the travel and not at the beginning. The fulcrum point is at the shaft the clutch fork sits and rotates around. There are 2 "ends" which consists of the slave cylinder end and the throw out bearing end. What internal part are you referring to? A picture of those parts would clarify a lot.
05-25-2006, 11:16 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I appreciate all your posts! The internal part I am referring to resides inside the pressure plate itself in between the friction surface and the diaphram springs.
Anywho, I found my problem. The clutch disc I ordered from South Bend Clutch does not have the same style offset hub as the Sachs, etc....so the hub was hitting the flywheel bolts and the two friction surfaces were not even touching. This all translates into the clutch assembly being moved out by ~ 1/8"+ which caused my clutch fork to have so much slop till engagment.
I will have to call and see if they can get me a new disc with the correct hub. The disc dimesnsions and splines all are correct but it does not have the recinded area to make room for the flywheel bots like the SACHS spring hub.
Anywho, I found my problem. The clutch disc I ordered from South Bend Clutch does not have the same style offset hub as the Sachs, etc....so the hub was hitting the flywheel bolts and the two friction surfaces were not even touching. This all translates into the clutch assembly being moved out by ~ 1/8"+ which caused my clutch fork to have so much slop till engagment.
I will have to call and see if they can get me a new disc with the correct hub. The disc dimesnsions and splines all are correct but it does not have the recinded area to make room for the flywheel bots like the SACHS spring hub.
