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Hi all

anyone ever removed an ignition cyl. lock before, if so, how hard is it?

I have the new lock, I have removed the plastic covers around the steering neck, I have removed the plastic ring around the lock itself and have access to a flat hole on the top left (Australian vehicle, RHD).

looking at the new lock, I can see a leaf spring, which I assume locks in to the body of the ignition, when the barrel is inserted.

I have poked flat bladed objects in the hole, to try and release the spring, pulling on the lock, with key inserted, in accessories position, on pos. and start position (battery is disconnected) - and the thing will not budge.

any assistance appreciated with this one, is there a special tool required?

testarossa_td

Search this forum. There have been several good write-ups.

KuHL 951

I think you will need to drill a hole at a exact spot and insert a pin. At least on the early cars you have to and the later cars look the same. Do you have the Porsche shop manuals on CD? If not PM me with the model year and I'll send you those pages.

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Thanks kuHL - I eventually got it, albiet using a little a unorthodox method.

I then had to return to the locksmith - I had the new cylinder rekeyed and the idiot put the end of the barrel on 180 deg round the wrong way and I could not insert it!

anyway, replacing my cylinder lock only fixed half the problem, I still lose accessories (no radio) when the engine is started, but the ignition cut out issue has gone away (if keys moved, the car would die) - so I now must look at the ignition switch assy. now, I suppose?, which would mean a bit of a bigger job.....

I love old cars!

Granite 944

The switch replacement itself is MUCH easier to do, then replacing the tumblers themselfs. Early or late cars. Which do you have, by the way? Its surely not uncommon for those early (cheap to buy) switches to fail. Your last comments kinda make it sound like it would be the switch assy. itself, anyway.

namespace

Hi Granite, it is the darndest problem, I have an 84 BTW. I first noticed it when I installed a new stereo, and I am even thinking it may be that too! (new type digital stereo, w/detachable face, no pots to turn it off, like the original.

before I decided to replace the radio, I first noticed it hard to start (would crank and crank and not fire), if I positioned the key in a certain way, no problem. second WTF! was when I had the car running, new radio playing, reasonably loud, I got out of the car and closed the door and utter silence from the radio - I thought WOW, great sound proofing, but no, the jolt from the door knocked the keys out of position and the accessories went off.

Odd thing is the cigarette lighter still works, isnt that connected to the radio circuit?

I replaced the cylinder lock and all those issues have gone away, but the radio still turns off (no power at all), after you crank and start the car.

another wierdo problem was my Oil Pressure gauge was pegged at 5 when ignition was on and never moved past 4.5-5 when running, since replacing the cylinder lock, the gauge works normally!, I get 3 bar at normal operating, the needle moves up and down and is at 0 when the ignition is on (red dash lights on, engine not running)

I have rewired the radio in all possible combos, to no avail. Now I have just connected it direct to permanent 12V, so I just detach the face to 'switch it off', save having the illumination on all of the time.

So my conclusion is most likely both cylinder lock and the switch are/were playing up.

Can you confirm the following wiring color codes:

Multimeter gives me these readings

red - permanent 12V
orange - 12V switched
yellow? - I get not power to this lead in any key position (not fuses)

Granite 944

First off, you know that on the early cars (not the '85/2 and later ones), that as soon as you put the key in the ignition, it triggers power to the radio relay to the stereo supply and allows radio to operate via a spring loaded switch contact inside the electrical ignition switch. There is no "accessory" postion on the early cars ign. switch, there is only a start, and run position on it.

Your wiring colors your giving do not sound like the "stock" wiring colors. AFAIK, they should be (I think):

red/blue stripe = 12v switched
red/yellow stripe = 12v constant
solid brown wires (no stripe)= grounds (exception......spkr wires in bundles of two)

I suspect your ignition switch. Not uncommon. Also could be the radio relay dropping out, and needs replacement. Test that relay for proper operation also, as they ARE expensive to buy brand new.

Electrical diagrams can be found a Pelicans website for these cars.
Here are a couple of interest here.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/944/elec...944_84_3_1.jpg

http://www.pelicanparts.com/944/elec...944_84_5_1.jpg

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Hi Granite

Take into consideration, this is an Australian car, but I can assume that Porsche did not change the wiring colors from country to country, brown is ground, red (in all cars that I have owned, euro or not, was always 12V permanent, orange/yellow or blue was always ignition switched). when I removed the original factory radio and amp, it did appear that 'someone' had been behind the console previously, as the wiring loom had some 'home made' jobbys done on it.

Useful info - I did not know that they had no accesories position!, yes when key is inserted the power comes on for the radio and the sunroof release, the old ignition lock, I had to 'wiggle' to get this happening.

I may just leave it as it is now, its sort of annoying, but its the only way I can get the radio to work, while the car is in a running state.

The ignition switch is added to my list of 'to-dos', its growing day by day!

Thanks Mate!

Adam