zoltan944

now i posted yesterday about the heavy 'lifter' noise my car all of the sudden got at idle. If you rev the car up you wont hear it past say 2k rpm. So i started tearing into it, got the cam belt cover off, and the cam belt looked pretty loose, well clarks garage says without the tool the 'old school' way to do it was to pinch and roll 90deg and then tighten the tentioner. Well by those standards, i guess it wasn't loose, lol
Anyway i got the cam assembly because when i pulled the cap i noticed some chunks of plastic in there have been 'hit' off.
Now here is what i am wondering about, i will be as clear as possible since a pic really wont help.
The 'rod' that the rotor connects to has quite a bit of play in it. the large bolt looking thing behind that with what looks like a locking bolt in it also has alot of play in it. Now with the cam assembly out the cam gear has bout a 1/4 inch movement each way before you even start to move the cam inside.
some how it needs to 'tighten' up out there so the rotor shaft holds straigtht an deverythig doesnt like 'woble' i guess.
the car is a 1986 NA 944

Sean
Also if someone has 4 good used injectors to sell me i would appreceate it! i pulled teh rail out and the injectors flowed out everything left in the rail, that explains the tough starts lol!

zoltan944

I see some info on this at clarks garage, i found it under replacing the front main seal. Now it talks about a hex bolt or cheese head bolt, and Porsche went to cheesehead and added a larger tourque spec supposedly because there were issues with the hex bolt backing out, i think i will check this now. and then check back here again

hosrom_951

zoltan944 : I had the camshaft housing off the car on the NA and the turbo, i never encountered any noticable play at all, a 1/4" movement is a lot of play (for me anyways).

zoltan944

okee dokee, using this page on cg
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/cam-03.htm
i got to the hex/cheesehead bolt. Guess what? I have a standard ole regular bolt in there, AND IT IS LOOSE. Must have gotten backed out. 2 questions before i proceed:
do you think this did any damage to the car? when i was lining up to TDC, it sure seemed like i have great compression
2. do i hold off on this and do the seals behind the distributer? (by doing this i would spend more money toward a potentionally 'broken' car)
what ya think?

hosrom_951

Well, in both my cars, i have the updated bolt, the 10mm 12 point bolt.

What i understand is porsche used the allen head bolt and had issues with it backing out, even with thread sealer/loctite, hence the upgradded bolt with higher torque specs and no loctite.

So the housing is off already, i wouldn't worry about it at all. I would reseal the whole housing (front seals, oring, mylar, spacer, and rear cork), just make sure the piston #1 is on TDC.

Mongo

I don't think you damaged your car because of the fact the bolt backed out a little bit. You would've heard it or felt it. Update to a cheesehead bolt, use blue Loctite and torque to 38 ft/lbs. I used this method and my cheeshead NEVER backed out again. BTW, it's really easy to break the Loctite if you get back in there for anything; just have someone hold the cam gear for you while you break the cheesehead bolt loose ON THE CAR.

zoltan944

thanks guys, im really thinking the car is fine, just alot of wobbyly wich made some wierd noise an broke the rotor and cap, so as soon as my pelicanparts get here, i hope to be allllll good!
Sean