Stan944

I'm in the middle of the front-end reseal, and wanted to reseal the balance shaft covers too. I have a small problem with the cover of the lower balance shaft: I took all the bolts and nuts of, except for the top rear, which is blocked by the exhaust manifold (but the bolt is loose now). The cover is resting on two studs and the old 'glue'. That's where I called it a day, and maybe somone could get me some hints. I don't think I can take it off the studs without removing the exhaust manifold. I don't want to remove the manifold, because there is always a danger of braking the studs. Agree? Can I remove the studs that hold the balance shaft covers? How? Will I be able to finish the job then?
And should I just pry the cover off to break the old 'glue'?
Thanks.

Stan944

bump

StoogeMoe

Well, you're committed now, aren't you?

I can't answer the question if you can remove the cover without removing the exhaust header. I have the luxury of having the engine out of the car. You shouldn't have to pry very hard to get the cover off. I could hear my seal cracking as I loosened the bolts. Then I just carefully pulled the cover off by hand when all the bolts and nuts were removed.
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1986 944 NA - Guards Red - 87k miles
1983 944 NA - Platinum metallic - awaiting new engine
1985.1 944 NA - Guards Red - donor car
1984 911 Carrera Coupe - Guards Red (gone, but not forgotten)
"If you're not living on the edge, you're not living"

apierce918

i wouldnt worry about breaking the studs for your manifolds, mine came off pretty easily. the nut is gonna give, or the stud is gonna come out i think are more likely than breaking one of them.

Stan944

yep, I'm commited 100% now - I don't want to do it the 3rd time!
I actually think I found THE problem for the primary leak, but I won't post it until I drive it for a while, and know for sure.

Stan944

Sounds like I should remove the manifold. Besides, it will be easier to do a good job of reasealing when I don't fight for clearance. The nuts look reasonably healthy. I hope the manifold to exhaust connection is doable too.

About the manifold gaskets, I want to save time (on mail ordering), and will attampt to cut them myself. I believe they are paper type? Or I could put it together temporarily without any gaskets, and redo it later on? This looks like an easy job provided the bolts aren't seized.
Is there a (metal?) gasket between the manifold and the exhaust that I need a new one?

nine-44

The exhaust gaskets on the NA cars can normally be reused. I wouldn't on a turbo tho. I just did all the seals on my 86, I left the header on(tube style) and didn't take the shaft out, just the cover. I did have to pull the bracket that supports the block to the motor mount tho.

NOTE... lube the o-ring before putting it on the rear plug and give it a little turn to settle it. I have seen-rings twist before, when they do it puts a thin spot in them where they strech, that will cause leakage. I settle all o-rings when installing them.

Also... use case sealant on the housing surface where it meets the block.

And... lube all radial seals, it will burn them up in short time from a dry start-up

And, And.... the clear mylar seal that goes behind the spacer, be sure to pull the old one, when you are sure you have it off, take a pick and make sure, doubling them will cause a leak.

JadedSilver

I use Hylomar liberally on o-rings like this. It's just a non hardening, "grease" type sealant that allow the o-rings to flaot and move in their race without marring or leaking at all. Gas/oil prood and high temp, Permatex makes a great version(translucent blue color). This is the same sealant that works so well on the boxxer motor oil return tube o-rings, where those tubes/o-rings constantly move with the expansion and contraction of the aircooled motors.

just my input.

ttyl,

Stan944

Thanks for the tips. It's great I don't need to order the gaskets. And I like Hylomar too.
And I certainly hope I don't need to remove the bracket that mounts to the block. That requires removing the control arm, alignment, lots of work.
I plan to use bearing grease on the rubbing surfaces of the seals, Loctite 574 on the balance shaft covers, and am undecided between Hylomar and bearing grease on the o-rings. Also want to put Hylomar or bearing grease on the transparent seals. If you have strong recommendations, let me know. I would think bearing grease would be best on the rear balance o-ring; I would think Hylomar would be too thick for mating rotating surfaces?
Another thing bothers me: Hayness recommends moly-based grease on the balance shafts (where they meet the non-ball bearing). I'm not sure if this is a good idea, because it will block oil circulation (there is a groove). So I though about lubricating it just with oil. What do you guys do?

rudidelange

I have removed the engine for an overhaul and realised that it will be difficult to open and close the balance shaft covers with the engine in place.
I will use an assemble lube on the balance shaft bearings when assembling. I have used engine oil on a previous occasion on the front end seal of the balance shafts when during a front end overhaul.

Stan944

I'm finished with the lower balance - that was quite a job. I'm in the middle of the upper balance. Access is actually easier than for the lower one, but we'll see how it goes next weekend.
I'm beginning to think that the clutch job might not be the hardest repair on these cars.