Put 4 speakers in the 944 today.
#48
ALL Turbo S, S2, & 968's had the 6.5" Cut-out- I'm not sure about NA ones, but am pretty sure all of them did too, past '88.... I know that many '87 951's, ,for some reason, had it too- most of them had the 4x6 speaker back there w/a plate covering the rest of the hole. Of course, the ones w/6.5's had a plate covering the small 4x6 section of the hole. Either way, you got a speaker & a small plate to seal in the rest of the opening. It's VERY important to seal that hole too... trust me...
Rock- you mean you got the 6.5" Kappa coaxes for $30/pr? I paid $90.... Also, how did you get them up front? How tall of a spacer did you use? Can you send some pics??? VERY FEW people have 6.5's up front & many have wanted to do this for YEARS... I'm sure a few people would appreciate it...
Rock- you mean you got the 6.5" Kappa coaxes for $30/pr? I paid $90.... Also, how did you get them up front? How tall of a spacer did you use? Can you send some pics??? VERY FEW people have 6.5's up front & many have wanted to do this for YEARS... I'm sure a few people would appreciate it...
#49
So my question is, Which 4x6 Co-axials fit the front in a four speaker system and still retain a COMPLETE factory look, i.e. cover plates do not stand off door card? I'm having a bitch of a time with these damn things! I tried some JL TR400's that the Sales Guy said would fit, they don't!
It seems the mounting depth for the JL and Alpine 4x6 are good but the co-axial tweeter sticks out too far for the grill to cover.
Thanks,
Jason.
Pics...
It seems the mounting depth for the JL and Alpine 4x6 are good but the co-axial tweeter sticks out too far for the grill to cover.
Thanks,
Jason.
Pics...
#50
Boston Acoustics makes a 4 X 6 that sounds pretty good and fits in the front opening with no problems. They are bass shy so you'll want to fit larger speakers in the rear or use a sub to get full range sound.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#51
Jason- I just sent you a PM.... But, what Bill just suggested might be good- BA makes some very good speakers, but like everyone, they have their high-end & low-end lines. I'd still take their lowest end line over a lot of speakers out there... They're probably more expensive than the Alpines- that would be my guess. But if they fit behind the stock grills w/no probs, they might be well worth the extra money to you... You can always buy some nice 6.5 coaxes for the rear- like Infinity Kappa 6.5's or something. Can even get 6x8's back there like I'm doing....
#52
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Can a normal (23 watt RMS) head unit run 6x8's in the rear--no amp?? My new 4x6 rear speakers sound like muffled junk to me--I assume because the tiny holes poked in the vinyl panel don't let the sound out. How will installing a 6x8 sound better, if most of the speaker is burried under the panel? I have the 6x5 cut-out...and would love nicer sound without having amps and wires all over the place!
#53
Originally Posted by AndyK
Can a normal (23 watt RMS) head unit run 6x8's in the rear--no amp?? My new 4x6 rear speakers sound like muffled junk to me--I assume because the tiny holes poked in the vinyl panel don't let the sound out. How will installing a 6x8 sound better, if most of the speaker is burried under the panel? I have the 6x5 cut-out...and would love nicer sound without having amps and wires all over the place!
It would depend on a couple of things, 23wRMS at what THD? and that's probably measured at 1kHz. What are the wattage range and sensitivity of the 6x8's? I've been out of this loop for a while but others are more current (no pun intended). For your application I think a real high quality HU would fit the bill.
Jason
#55
Andy- you're referring to your 4x6 speakers sounding bad- do you mean in the rear? I ask b/c you said "holes cut out of vinyl"- also, you said you have 6x5 holes cut out...? 6.5" holes? if so, 6x8's will go pretty easily... no metal cutting, etc... At least for Infinity Kappa & Reference 6x8's... Unfortunately, I don't think 23w rms from most head units would really be enough. BUT, if you DO have the 6.5" holes in back, you should have real grills back there, I would think....? What type of HU? I have a Kenwood 7017 that was supposed to be 22 or 23w RMS- it was not enough to power the 6.5" Kappa coaxes, so that's what I base my other opinion on- when I hooked them up to a 35w RMS 4-ch ADS Pq10 amp, they sounded much better, but really did not come alive until I bridged it to double the power- then the 6.5's sounded GOOD! I was like you, though- I don't want amps & subs & wires & crap everywhere... still, one simple 4-ch amp makes a world of difference... The 6x8's give me plenty of bass too- I'm using Kappa component 6x8s in the rear...
#56
Honestly, the power claims on most head units are absurd. At the most you can expect about 18 clean watts on any head unit and that's pushing it on most. A decent quality dedicated amplifier will ALWAYS be an improvement over the head units amps.
I have one 4 channel amp is it is mounted under the glovebox upside down and heavily velcroed in. Wire runs are minimal because runs are very short to the head unit and battery and I was easily able to tap into the existing speaker wire runs in the car.
I have one 4 channel amp is it is mounted under the glovebox upside down and heavily velcroed in. Wire runs are minimal because runs are very short to the head unit and battery and I was easily able to tap into the existing speaker wire runs in the car.
#57
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Originally Posted by Bill Lucas
Honestly, the power claims on most head units are absurd. At the most you can expect about 18 clean watts on any head unit and that's pushing it on most. A decent quality dedicated amplifier will ALWAYS be an improvement over the head units amps.
I have one 4 channel amp is it is mounted under the glovebox upside down and heavily velcroed in. Wire runs are minimal because runs are very short to the head unit and battery and I was easily able to tap into the existing speaker wire runs in the car.
I have one 4 channel amp is it is mounted under the glovebox upside down and heavily velcroed in. Wire runs are minimal because runs are very short to the head unit and battery and I was easily able to tap into the existing speaker wire runs in the car.
Id suggest an external 4 channel or a collection of two channel amps to anyone who wants to get the full benefit of the aftermarket speakers they just bought.
I'd love to hear some of you guy's audio setups. Some of them sound pretty cool. As for subs in my car I'm thinking these will probably work better than what I had planned before...
#58
White Pony,
I'm pretty happy with my car setup although I do need to work a sub into the mix to get that full sound I desire.
It will never be what I have in my Home Theater but then, that's what I do for a living.
As long as the car plays cleanly and has a balanced sound I'll be happy.
I'm pretty happy with my car setup although I do need to work a sub into the mix to get that full sound I desire.
It will never be what I have in my Home Theater but then, that's what I do for a living.
As long as the car plays cleanly and has a balanced sound I'll be happy.
#59
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Originally Posted by Bill Lucas
White Pony,
I'm pretty happy with my car setup although I do need to work a sub into the mix to get that full sound I desire.
It will never be what I have in my Home Theater but then, that's what I do for a living.
As long as the car plays cleanly and has a balanced sound I'll be happy.
I'm pretty happy with my car setup although I do need to work a sub into the mix to get that full sound I desire.
It will never be what I have in my Home Theater but then, that's what I do for a living.
As long as the car plays cleanly and has a balanced sound I'll be happy.
I agree totally about needing an amp though, those Infinity's robby is talking about will give a real good punch if given enough juice.
#60
I have Boston Acoustic 4 X6 in the front and Boston Acoustic 6.5" in the rear. I'm using an Alpine 9856 head unit and powering the speakers through an Alpine PDX-4.150 amp.
I'd really like to drop Dynaudio component speakers in but I can't bring myself to cut up door panels and the rear side panels to switch. I know the Dynaudio's would be a big improvement but I'm looking at $1k+ for those speakers and hacked up panels. I'll stick with the Boston Acoustics for now. They're doing a nice job now that they are properly powered.
I'd really like to drop Dynaudio component speakers in but I can't bring myself to cut up door panels and the rear side panels to switch. I know the Dynaudio's would be a big improvement but I'm looking at $1k+ for those speakers and hacked up panels. I'll stick with the Boston Acoustics for now. They're doing a nice job now that they are properly powered.