Rear torsion bars when using coilovers
#2
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you mean 4-corner coilovers?
do a search on torsion bars and/or rear coilovers. in short - no, you do not have to remove them. but depending on spring rate, you will most likely need to reindex them.
do a search on torsion bars and/or rear coilovers. in short - no, you do not have to remove them. but depending on spring rate, you will most likely need to reindex them.
#3
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I presume that you mean 4 corner coil overs? If so the effective rear spring rate becomes a combination of the torsion bar and the rear coil over springs. If you keep t-bars, you will need to re-index them for the appropriate ride height. Also if keeping them, you should consider them as an interdepenent system.
If you choose to delete t-bars, the rear coil overs will need an effective spring rate that takes the absense of the t-bars into consideration. (If you remove t-bars, you'll want stiffer springs.) Your car will rely on the coil overs, and the empty torsion tube as your rear suspension assembly. There will be no need for re-indexing. Ride height will be largely adjusted by the coil overs.
You will probably hear someone say that you are running a risk deleting the t-bars. The answer to that is, "Do you personally know anyone who had a rear suspension failure at the shock mounts?" Everyone likes to talk about it, but you will find rear coil over/t-bar delete failures to be EXTREMELY rare. BTW the upper mount should be what people are concerned about, not the lower.
I would suggest that you replace the rear spring plate bushing with the bushing offered by elephant racing.
If you choose to delete t-bars, the rear coil overs will need an effective spring rate that takes the absense of the t-bars into consideration. (If you remove t-bars, you'll want stiffer springs.) Your car will rely on the coil overs, and the empty torsion tube as your rear suspension assembly. There will be no need for re-indexing. Ride height will be largely adjusted by the coil overs.
You will probably hear someone say that you are running a risk deleting the t-bars. The answer to that is, "Do you personally know anyone who had a rear suspension failure at the shock mounts?" Everyone likes to talk about it, but you will find rear coil over/t-bar delete failures to be EXTREMELY rare. BTW the upper mount should be what people are concerned about, not the lower.
I would suggest that you replace the rear spring plate bushing with the bushing offered by elephant racing.
#4
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Here's one of the rare unlucky lucky. Lucky in that it didn't happen by hitting the kink a bit too high at 120. It weighs on my mind, but I still haven't put the torsion bars back in.
Here's one of the rare unlucky lucky. Lucky in that it didn't happen by hitting the kink a bit too high at 120. It weighs on my mind, but I still haven't put the torsion bars back in.
#6
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Originally Posted by Keith E.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...orsion+conical
Here's one of the rare unlucky lucky. Lucky in that it didn't happen by hitting the kink a bit too high at 120. It weighs on my mind, but I still haven't put the torsion bars back in.
Here's one of the rare unlucky lucky. Lucky in that it didn't happen by hitting the kink a bit too high at 120. It weighs on my mind, but I still haven't put the torsion bars back in.
I just did a quick read, but it sounds like the original poster broke a bolt that his buddy recommended from a hardware store and he didnt know what the proper torque for the bolt was. That is a disaster waiting to happen.
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Originally Posted by Oddjob
Not sure that post is a good example of lower or upper shock mount failure - since it seems like the failures mentioned were on the lower bolts that were neither the factory M14 bolt, nor a suitable aftermarket adaptor bolt for spherical bearings.
I just did a quick read, but it sounds like the original poster broke a bolt that his buddy recommended from a hardware store and he didnt know what the proper torque for the bolt was. That is a disaster waiting to happen.
I just did a quick read, but it sounds like the original poster broke a bolt that his buddy recommended from a hardware store and he didnt know what the proper torque for the bolt was. That is a disaster waiting to happen.
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#8
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Ahh...It's been awhile since I read through it. The photo stuck in my mind though. Do you think there is any credence to the conical adapter idea and it's use being stronger than the just the stock bolt? Or maybe it's even weaker?