hey guys! i just installed the new thermostat (that darn snap ring), and flushed my coolant, bled all the air out, and put in new coolant (50/50 phosphate free + water). so i took it out for a drive. The car warmed up normally, but after constant driving, the bar stayed at the 3rd tick mark consistently. (BTW, i got a 180 F thermostat). Then as soon as the gauge read above the 3rd mark, the fan would turn on. Is this normal? (for it to run at the 3rd bar for a 180 F thermo) thanks!

 

That seems a bit high for a 180 F thermostat. Check to make sure your coolant temp sensor connections are clean. If that's not the problem, I suggest finding somebody with a temp gun and see if your radiator has hot and cold spots(indicating a plugged radiator).

 

No, I would not call that normal. Was it a Wahler brand? There are some cheap-o aftermarket t-stats out there. Are the fans coming on when they should? Is the radiator blocked with debris? Are you sure you fully vented the system?

 

When you install a lower temp engine thermostat, you should also install a lower temp fan thermostat (on the radiator). Otherwise the fans will come on at the stock temp (3rd bar on gauge)

 

the fan still comes on at a little above the 3rd bar gauge. the brand was "Stant" Looked good and i tested it in a pot on the stove,a nd it opened at 180 F.

also, i drove around for a bit, got the coolant nice and hot, i radiator hose that connects to the bleeder screw, and it was very hot. then i touched the resevoir tank, and it was dead cold....is something not flowing right?

 

the brand is Stant, the fans come on at the normal 3rd tick, the radiator seems pretty clear but has rocks stuck between some fins. What do u mean vent? vent as in gettin the air out? well, i loosed the bleeder screw, squeezed the radiator tube until water shot out so that i was sure air wasnt int he system....help?

 

also, i noticed that when i was warming up the engine for 10 min, to get the coolant loop goin, even when the temp reached the middle, my heater did not work...but then when i took it out for a drive, the heat came on...so i dont get the point of turning the heat on full blast if you need moving air to make it work.

 

These cars take a little effort to "vent" properly. I'd start be redoubling your efforts there. If there is air in the system, if can cavitate (if that's the right term) around the pump and prevent flow. Often, you will see the car get hot at idle, and then drop way down to normal when you rev it. With the car cool, I open the vent bolt, and then (after cleaning off all coolant) pinch the overflow line and blow into the reservoir until water comes out the vent. Then I start it, turn the heater of full hot, full air, and let the car warm up -- then open the vent bolt with the car running for a bit. As long as it spits and gurgles, you still have air in the system. I usually have to do this a few times to get all the air out. Some people sugget parking up hill when venting, but I've never needed to do that.