Autopower Rollbar - 944/S2
01-24-2006, 12:43 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
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Location: Encinitas, CA "Surf Capital of the World"
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Autopower Rollbar - 944/S2
Went to EBay and nada....anyone have a Autopower Rollbar for a 944 / S2 they want to part with? PM me. Thanks
01-24-2006, 02:04 AM
#4
Rennlist Member
Really? Why not?
If you need an Autopower bar, just go to their shop and buy one directly. They'll even install it for you for cheap. They're right off I-5 at Rosecrans.
If you need an Autopower bar, just go to their shop and buy one directly. They'll even install it for you for cheap. They're right off I-5 at Rosecrans.
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reflexr (10-12-2020)
01-24-2006, 02:09 AM
#5
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I think it's because the mounting points don't qualify as stiff enough supports in case of a roll over. The locations are the C-pillar and where the rear seat belts mount....It serves as a good harness bar though. However, there is debate too on bolt in roll bars and safety measures with those. Regardless, I don't think anyone is going to try and deliberately roll their Porsche at 100 mph to prove its safety 
Autopower is local; I hope to be their next customer as soon as I get my car back on the road
Autopower is local; I hope to be their next customer as soon as I get my car back on the road
01-24-2006, 02:12 AM
#6
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From what John@Redline says, the C pillar and seat belt mounts are far more strong and reinforced than the wheel wells and floor pan where the Autopower bar mounts.
People are saying the backing plates aren't enough to distribute the forces and the entire thing will punch through on impact/rollover not giving any protection. However, I haven't seen concrete results of either...
People are saying the backing plates aren't enough to distribute the forces and the entire thing will punch through on impact/rollover not giving any protection. However, I haven't seen concrete results of either...
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01-24-2006, 03:54 AM
#8
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my backing plates are the same size as any other roll bar. I've installed my own autopower, and 2 others, both being different manufacturers.
The autopower is not the best roll bar out there, but its a good roll bar. It will do its job just fine. The only complaint i have is that its not upright enough imo. Oh, also they weld in the harness bar dangerously low. I would recomend measuring where you want the harness bar to be so that a harness will be 90* to your shoulders. I did this.
A tip, when installing the hardware in the wheel well. Install the bolts from the bottom with the nuts on top so that you dont end up with the bolts extending into the wheel where they could potentially contact the tire.
Eyal
The autopower is not the best roll bar out there, but its a good roll bar. It will do its job just fine. The only complaint i have is that its not upright enough imo. Oh, also they weld in the harness bar dangerously low. I would recomend measuring where you want the harness bar to be so that a harness will be 90* to your shoulders. I did this.
A tip, when installing the hardware in the wheel well. Install the bolts from the bottom with the nuts on top so that you dont end up with the bolts extending into the wheel where they could potentially contact the tire.
Eyal
01-24-2006, 10:46 AM
#9
Race Director
Stig - can you be more specific in your accusations - are you saying that per the San Diego region, the Redline Rollbar is not legal for CLUB RACING? Or for DE's? AX?
I have a Redline Rollbar, and though I have not tested it, I feel it is a good bar. The bolt in vs. welded in debate is probably why San Diego region doesn't allow the bars. (Sheer strength of the bolt in bars...etc).
My problem with the welded in bars is that the plates are welded to the body of the car. Isn't that sheetmetal that can easily bend? As for the Redline bar - it's bolted to the seat belt anchor points - which I believe, Porsche did a fine job of reinforcing them.
Just my $0.42,
-Z.
I have a Redline Rollbar, and though I have not tested it, I feel it is a good bar. The bolt in vs. welded in debate is probably why San Diego region doesn't allow the bars. (Sheer strength of the bolt in bars...etc).
My problem with the welded in bars is that the plates are welded to the body of the car. Isn't that sheetmetal that can easily bend? As for the Redline bar - it's bolted to the seat belt anchor points - which I believe, Porsche did a fine job of reinforcing them.
Just my $0.42,
-Z.
01-24-2006, 10:50 AM
#10
Race Director
Originally Posted by Z-man
Stig - can you be more specific in your accusations - are you saying that per the San Diego region, the Redline Rollbar is not legal for CLUB RACING? Or for DE's? AX?
01-24-2006, 11:13 AM
#11
The Redline rollbar is not allowed in ANY PCA Club Racing events.
Per the PCA Club Racing 2006 Rules Book:
I recently installed a full cage after removing a Redline Rollbar. The Redline Rollbar makes a great harness mounting point, and would offer *some* protection in a rollover. However, with my seating position far forward, my head was around 18 inches forward of the rollbar main hoop. Since the A-pillar is the weak point and most likely to crush in a rollover, this setup was not what I would consider safe. The Redline is a quality bar, but a full cage will offer more protection in most rollovers.
If you want an Autopower rollbar, someone is selling one in the classifieds section right now, for $200. Check with Ebby_951S
Per the PCA Club Racing 2006 Rules Book:
APPENDIX A - ROLL BAR SPECIFICATIONS
Roll Bars and Cages: The roll bar/roll cage must be securely mounted with the mounting plates at the
bottom of the hoops mounted directly to the floor and/or longitudinal members of the unibody and make
metal to metal contact. Any padding, carpet, upholstery, etc. must be removed to satisfy this requirement.
The mounting area of bolt-in roll bar/roll cage must be backed by a plate of a size equal to that of the
upper mounting plate with a minimum thickness of 3/16”. Bolts must be grade 5 or higher. The roll bar/
roll cage must be full cockpit width, except as originally supplied by the factory for open racecars, and
have two fore/aft braces of tubing size equal to the main hoop. The braces must be mounted as near to
the top of the main hoop as possible an at an included angle of at least 30 degrees. Additionally, the
assembly must contain a transverse (left to right side) brace. Roll bar/roll cage tubing in the Stock/
Prepared Classes must remain within the passenger compartment. The removal of the driver’s side door
panel and glass to facilitate side impact protection is allowed in all classes.
Roll Bars: All provisions for Roll bars and cages apply. Note that roll bars without terminal mounting
plates braced on the frame either on or parallel to the floor are not acceptable. The top of the main hoop
must be at least 2" above the driver’s helmet when the driver is seated in the normal driving position.
Roll Cages: If a full cage is required, the top of the front hoop and the top of the main hoop must form a
plane that is 2” above the driver’s head in both closed and open top cars.
An inspection hole 3/16" in diameter must be provided in a non-critical area for verification of tube
thickness. Any portion of the assembly which may come in contact with the driver’s helmet must be
covered with high density foam 1" thick held securely in place with electrical or duct tape. SFI rated hard
foam is recommended.
Minimum Roll Bar Tubing Sizes Car Weight
Under 1500 lbs Over 1500 lbs
Mild Steel 1.5" x .120" 1.75" x .120"
Alloy Steel 1.375" x .090" 1.625" x .095"
Minimum Roll Cage Tubing Sizes
For cars with roll cages, the main and front roll hoops must have the following minimum
diameters and wall thicknesses:
Car Weight
Under 2500 lbs Over 2500 lbs
Mild Steel 1.50" x .095" 1.75" x .095” or 1.50" x .120”
Alloy Steel 1.375 x .095" 1.50" x .095"
Factory Roll Cages with documentation (matching serial number to certificate) are allowed.
Roll Bars and Cages: The roll bar/roll cage must be securely mounted with the mounting plates at the
bottom of the hoops mounted directly to the floor and/or longitudinal members of the unibody and make
metal to metal contact. Any padding, carpet, upholstery, etc. must be removed to satisfy this requirement.
The mounting area of bolt-in roll bar/roll cage must be backed by a plate of a size equal to that of the
upper mounting plate with a minimum thickness of 3/16”. Bolts must be grade 5 or higher. The roll bar/
roll cage must be full cockpit width, except as originally supplied by the factory for open racecars, and
have two fore/aft braces of tubing size equal to the main hoop. The braces must be mounted as near to
the top of the main hoop as possible an at an included angle of at least 30 degrees. Additionally, the
assembly must contain a transverse (left to right side) brace. Roll bar/roll cage tubing in the Stock/
Prepared Classes must remain within the passenger compartment. The removal of the driver’s side door
panel and glass to facilitate side impact protection is allowed in all classes.
Roll Bars: All provisions for Roll bars and cages apply. Note that roll bars without terminal mounting
plates braced on the frame either on or parallel to the floor are not acceptable. The top of the main hoop
must be at least 2" above the driver’s helmet when the driver is seated in the normal driving position.
Roll Cages: If a full cage is required, the top of the front hoop and the top of the main hoop must form a
plane that is 2” above the driver’s head in both closed and open top cars.
An inspection hole 3/16" in diameter must be provided in a non-critical area for verification of tube
thickness. Any portion of the assembly which may come in contact with the driver’s helmet must be
covered with high density foam 1" thick held securely in place with electrical or duct tape. SFI rated hard
foam is recommended.
Minimum Roll Bar Tubing Sizes Car Weight
Under 1500 lbs Over 1500 lbs
Mild Steel 1.5" x .120" 1.75" x .120"
Alloy Steel 1.375" x .090" 1.625" x .095"
Minimum Roll Cage Tubing Sizes
For cars with roll cages, the main and front roll hoops must have the following minimum
diameters and wall thicknesses:
Car Weight
Under 2500 lbs Over 2500 lbs
Mild Steel 1.50" x .095" 1.75" x .095” or 1.50" x .120”
Alloy Steel 1.375 x .095" 1.50" x .095"
Factory Roll Cages with documentation (matching serial number to certificate) are allowed.
If you want an Autopower rollbar, someone is selling one in the classifieds section right now, for $200. Check with Ebby_951S
01-24-2006, 11:17 AM
#12
Rennlist Member
Well yeah, of course a full cage will offer more protection that any rollbar. That's a given. However, many of us don't use our cars as dedicated track cars and want to drive them on the street. That's where a rollbar comes in, as driving a car on the street with a rollcage in it is very dangerous...
01-24-2006, 11:40 AM
#13
Originally Posted by docwyte
Well yeah, of course a full cage will offer more protection that any rollbar. That's a given. However, many of us don't use our cars as dedicated track cars and want to drive them on the street. That's where a rollbar comes in, as driving a car on the street with a rollcage in it is very dangerous...
Now, if you are comfortable with that, and primarily want a weekend harness mounting point, then the Redline is the way to go. 20 minutes and it's in or out with no permanent modifications. It is an ideal compromise for the weekend warrior. Just be aware of the fact that any rollbar will only offer limited rollover protection. And yes, you are correct that a full cage is not recommended for street use.
Bottom line is that rollovers are highly unusual, especially in DEs (relative to racing). If you are that concerned with rollovers, then you will get a cage. When buying a rollbar, what you are basically buying is a harness mounting point, with a presumed benefit of rollover protection. Consequently, any rollbar will do, but the Redline is a quality, convenient, unobtrusive alternative.
Last edited by shiners780; 01-24-2006 at 12:01 PM.
01-24-2006, 11:52 AM
#14
Race Director
I was pretty sure that the Redline Rollbars weren't legit for PCA club racing on the national level - given the current chatter about safety devices used at DE's, I was wondering if San Diego region has started on that path... (I seriously hope not!)
[QUOTE=shiners780Bottom line is that rollovers are highly unusual, especially in DEs (relative to racing). If you are that concerned with rollovers, then you will get a cage. When buying a rollbar, what you are basically buying is a harness mounting point, with a presumed benefit of rollover protection. Consequently, any rollbar will do, but the Redline is a quality, convenient, inobtrusive alternative.[/QUOTE]
Well said.
However, I do feel that rollbars do offer an added help in keeping the roof from crushing in, given your exception of a short driver who is too far ahead of the rollbar to use its effectiveness. But in general, rollbars typically reinforce the strongest area of the car - the section between the B and C pillars. It's the section between the A-pillars that need the most help!
But like said before - if you want full protection on the track, a cage is the way to go. But then your car is no longer safe for the street. Keep in mind that rollbar padding is designed for helmet to rollbar contact absorbtion - not for bare head to padded rollbar contact.
-Z-man.
[QUOTE=shiners780Bottom line is that rollovers are highly unusual, especially in DEs (relative to racing). If you are that concerned with rollovers, then you will get a cage. When buying a rollbar, what you are basically buying is a harness mounting point, with a presumed benefit of rollover protection. Consequently, any rollbar will do, but the Redline is a quality, convenient, inobtrusive alternative.[/QUOTE]
Well said.
However, I do feel that rollbars do offer an added help in keeping the roof from crushing in, given your exception of a short driver who is too far ahead of the rollbar to use its effectiveness. But in general, rollbars typically reinforce the strongest area of the car - the section between the B and C pillars. It's the section between the A-pillars that need the most help!
But like said before - if you want full protection on the track, a cage is the way to go. But then your car is no longer safe for the street. Keep in mind that rollbar padding is designed for helmet to rollbar contact absorbtion - not for bare head to padded rollbar contact.
-Z-man.
01-24-2006, 02:43 PM
#15
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Hey;
The cue for the Spring batch of Redline Roll bars will be forming soon.
If anyone wants the inside scoop on the various points raised here. Let me know. It's what I do.
The cue for the Spring batch of Redline Roll bars will be forming soon.
If anyone wants the inside scoop on the various points raised here. Let me know. It's what I do.