Anyone have any recommendations on sound deadening??
#17
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Originally Posted by dnwong
that not good. is it removable after it cooks. otherwise, I will take it off before it cures. I guess I will wait before doing any more.
You should contact Robby from the earlier parts of this thread. He's done his entire car with many of the products mentioned in the thread. I've used some different soundproofing and radiant heat reducing materials in my car with good results. Trust me it will never sound like a Bentley though, it's a sports car.
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Talked to the folks at Cofair; makers of the the quick roof product. They said that is the same products as peal and seal just that lowes has it as peel and seal and home depot has it as quick roof.
They are coming out with a product in a few months that is designed for sound deading. It is currently used on Sinks.
I will be available in larger sheets soon.
http://www.cofair.com/sinksliencer.aspx
They are coming out with a product in a few months that is designed for sound deading. It is currently used on Sinks.
I will be available in larger sheets soon.
http://www.cofair.com/sinksliencer.aspx
#20
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Originally Posted by dnwong
Talked to the folks at Cofair; makers of the the quick roof product. They said that is the same products as peal and seal just that lowes has it as peel and seal and home depot has it as quick roof.
They are coming out with a product in a few months that is designed for sound deading. It is currently used on Sinks.
I will be available in larger sheets soon.
http://www.cofair.com/sinksliencer.aspx
They are coming out with a product in a few months that is designed for sound deading. It is currently used on Sinks.
I will be available in larger sheets soon.
http://www.cofair.com/sinksliencer.aspx
That sounds like a better product than the butyl asphalt but I feel the aluminum skin has an advantage as a heat barrier also on the tunnel and floors. Any product that bonds well to contours of sheet metal will work to deaden the inherant resonance of vibrating metal. The mondo expensive stuff like DyanMat are great and are designed for that purpose but they weigh a ton and don't actually bond that well. All the DynaMat that came on my 83 has to be held in place when I pop a door panel; it just doesn't stick or conform at all. If you have any metal with air gaps the effectiveness of the product is reduced substantially. I've used a NuPrene neoprene product that works well, is 1/3 of the price of most commercial deadeners and conforms excellent to shapes like the rear deck area. It requires contact cement and should be considered permanent. I buy it off eBay. The earlier comment about the new seals is dead on. A lot of the noise you hear is from small gaps in the seals, even the door handle gaskets can whistle. For me it's all about 'bang for your buck' and I always choose the bang first and keep a tight fist on the buck. Like I said you really should talk to Robby he's really done some interesting stuff with his car and it didn't add 150 pounds to the car either.
Last edited by KuHL 951; 10-05-2006 at 09:37 PM.
#21
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I used Sound Off in the lower half of the doors when I did my 968 mirrors&handles/Window Express/central locking mods. I cleaned the surface with lacquor thinner and butted the seams together tightly. They have droppe dthe resonance of the door a little, but it was about the same time I did the 3" exh so I don't have a solid comparison.
Last edited by ibkevin; 08-01-2013 at 01:07 PM.
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Yes, Steve's advice has really helped me out a lot- I'm not even close to being done, but I've done a lot- my big thing was trying to quieten the car while keeping the weight down- I think I'll have added ~30lbs of sound deadening in the end, but will have lost a few pounds of factory stuff for ~25lbs total. The Polyken tape 360-35 is awesome- it contours well to all the bends, etc- it sticks better than Dyna Mat, is lighter, & much cheaper- have to buy in bulk- search ebay- Merco Tape- they sell cases for $120 + S&H. 1 case is 16 rolls of 3" wide. I'll probably get by w/less than 12 rolls, but I do plan to put a layer underneath the seats & I've DBL layering a few sections- might not do that if I had it to do over, since I've now learned of Nuprene- one layer of each works pretty well. It's EXTREMELY light. Can get it on ebay too- a guy named fuseguy- put it on top of the Polyken & it makes a big dif... I DO agree on the seals- I'll be going through mine slowly but surely.
Here are some pics of the Polyken so far- wheel wells, tranny tunnel, & rear seat are big noise areas- I haven't lifted the carpet for the tranny tunnel yet- the rest of the hatch, doors, etc need work too... I'm putting Nuprene on top of all of this- I kind of like the way the Polyken looks- the Nuprene doesn't look as good, but it works... I'll carpet over the rear seat & throw the hatch carpet on & no one will know... I'm also working on the wheel wells- under the factory stuff, but not sure how far I'll end up going. BTW- the top pic is of another car w/Dyna Mat- I'm going to put Nuprene on like this- a big sheet of it cut to fit door. Cheaper than the factory plastic stuff & will actually help deaden noise by covering the holes, etc...
HEY STEVE- do you think the door panels will go on if I put the Nuprene on like this- the Dyna Mat pic...??? It's only 1/8" thick, but I'm starting to think about it now & wondering if it might not work- might be just a hair too thick...?
Here are some pics of the Polyken so far- wheel wells, tranny tunnel, & rear seat are big noise areas- I haven't lifted the carpet for the tranny tunnel yet- the rest of the hatch, doors, etc need work too... I'm putting Nuprene on top of all of this- I kind of like the way the Polyken looks- the Nuprene doesn't look as good, but it works... I'll carpet over the rear seat & throw the hatch carpet on & no one will know... I'm also working on the wheel wells- under the factory stuff, but not sure how far I'll end up going. BTW- the top pic is of another car w/Dyna Mat- I'm going to put Nuprene on like this- a big sheet of it cut to fit door. Cheaper than the factory plastic stuff & will actually help deaden noise by covering the holes, etc...
HEY STEVE- do you think the door panels will go on if I put the Nuprene on like this- the Dyna Mat pic...??? It's only 1/8" thick, but I'm starting to think about it now & wondering if it might not work- might be just a hair too thick...?
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That's cool to know- I thought they just did cases, but then, some cases, depending on width, are dif # of rolls. I bought 3" wide- 360-35- wish I could have found the thicker stuff- 360-45, but this stuff is great- it looks like it weighs a ton, but it's really light- MUCH lighter than D-mat- probably less than HALF the weight of the D-mat Extreme. sticks better, cheaper- better all around IMO...