Car won't start
#16
Three Wheelin'
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A quick check is to tap the starter with a hammer handle, then try to turn it over again. When a starter is going bad, sometimes they will hang up on a dead spot. Tapping them usually moves it enough to allow it to move.
Also try measuring the voltage drop at the battery when trying to crank. Just put the positive of the voltmeter on the positive battery cable, the negative on the block, then try to start and see if the voltage drops.
Also try measuring the voltage drop at the battery when trying to crank. Just put the positive of the voltmeter on the positive battery cable, the negative on the block, then try to start and see if the voltage drops.
#17
Burning Brakes
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My 1988 wiring diagrams show a plug connector in the starter solenoid to key switch wire, called T 24. It could be corroded. Unforturnately I have no idea where it is located, but I would assume it is near the starter as implied by the diagram.
Lou
Lou
#18
Well, a minor update:
After having the car roll down the driveway and into the street last night*, I discovered that the car started. Of course, this was discovered AFTER we pushed it up the driveway. Anyway, it turned over and started right up on the second try. Just thought I'd give a little bit more information to help diagnose this problem. Also, the temperature last night was around 40, while it was in the 20's or 10's the week before. Not sure if that's part of the problem, but I figured I'd throw that out there.
Uranium,
What sort of voltage drop would I be looking for? I think the battery was right at 12.5V when I checked it the other day. That was with one probe on the (+) post and the other on the block.
*My brother knocked the car out of gear while he was getting something out of the car, and after the snow behind the tires melted the car rolled into the middle of the street. Luckily, no one hit it and some one came to the door to let us know.
After having the car roll down the driveway and into the street last night*, I discovered that the car started. Of course, this was discovered AFTER we pushed it up the driveway. Anyway, it turned over and started right up on the second try. Just thought I'd give a little bit more information to help diagnose this problem. Also, the temperature last night was around 40, while it was in the 20's or 10's the week before. Not sure if that's part of the problem, but I figured I'd throw that out there.
Uranium,
What sort of voltage drop would I be looking for? I think the battery was right at 12.5V when I checked it the other day. That was with one probe on the (+) post and the other on the block.
*My brother knocked the car out of gear while he was getting something out of the car, and after the snow behind the tires melted the car rolled into the middle of the street. Luckily, no one hit it and some one came to the door to let us know.
#20
Drifting
No need to test the ignition switch. That thing is designed to operate even after million starts. It appears the solenoid copper contacts are finally shot. After 20+ years and 5,000 starts later- they are due to go. I rebuilt the solenoid by cleaning out the entire spring housing. Replace the burned-out/corroded copper contacts with replacements from your auto parts store. Thickness counts- so get the most sturdiest ones you can find. Merry X-mas!
Zach
Zach
#21
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Originally Posted by iloveporsches
Well, a minor update:
After having the car roll down the driveway and into the street last night*, I discovered that the car started. Of course, this was discovered AFTER we pushed it up the driveway. Anyway, it turned over and started right up on the second try. Just thought I'd give a little bit more information to help diagnose this problem. Also, the temperature last night was around 40, while it was in the 20's or 10's the week before. Not sure if that's part of the problem, but I figured I'd throw that out there.
Uranium,
What sort of voltage drop would I be looking for? I think the battery was right at 12.5V when I checked it the other day. That was with one probe on the (+) post and the other on the block.
*My brother knocked the car out of gear while he was getting something out of the car, and after the snow behind the tires melted the car rolled into the middle of the street. Luckily, no one hit it and some one came to the door to let us know.
After having the car roll down the driveway and into the street last night*, I discovered that the car started. Of course, this was discovered AFTER we pushed it up the driveway. Anyway, it turned over and started right up on the second try. Just thought I'd give a little bit more information to help diagnose this problem. Also, the temperature last night was around 40, while it was in the 20's or 10's the week before. Not sure if that's part of the problem, but I figured I'd throw that out there.
Uranium,
What sort of voltage drop would I be looking for? I think the battery was right at 12.5V when I checked it the other day. That was with one probe on the (+) post and the other on the block.
*My brother knocked the car out of gear while he was getting something out of the car, and after the snow behind the tires melted the car rolled into the middle of the street. Luckily, no one hit it and some one came to the door to let us know.
#22
Originally Posted by Uranium-235
When you checked the voltage, was it during a crank? While cranking, I would expect to see something above 10V, anything lower indicates either a bad battery or a bad starter. If the battery goes bad, it can still provide the proper voltage, but not the current, which is required to spin the starter motor. If the starter has developed an internal problem, it draws too much current and cannot operate correctly.
#23
Three Wheelin'
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Originally Posted by iloveporsches
The voltage was checked with teh car just sitting there. I'll check it again while trying to start today.