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Do scored cylinders make a block trash

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Old 12-12-2005, 05:56 PM
  #31  
p-carparts
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I just went through this on my 3.0 block. One grove down one cyl. Problem - it might burn oil and smoke if the grove is too big. What is too big, catch your finger nail. Don Istook saw both my blocks at Automotive Machine here in FTW. (he bought one) Long story short - sleeve it for about $125 per hole, you will kick youself in the *** if you don't. Reuse your original pistons and have the sleeve bored to each one. It all depend on what you want and how much you have to spend.

I was able to get a complete bottom end rebuild for less than $2K, that is cheap for an S2 motor. Automotive Machine in FTW did a complete balance and assy.

Last edited by p-carparts; 12-12-2005 at 07:00 PM.
Old 12-12-2005, 08:23 PM
  #32  
420WHP944
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Originally Posted by Granite 944
Just for clarification.....one more time. IT IS NOT A COATING.

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Sorry Ken, I didn't mean to say coating....you are right, I meant to say as you rightly did that the process leaves the hard silicon surface as per factory finish.....cheers and merry christmas everyone!
Old 12-12-2005, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 420WHP944
Sorry Ken, I didn't mean to say coating....you are right, I meant to say as you rightly did that the process leaves the hard silicon surface as per factory finish.....cheers and merry christmas everyone!
No apology needed. Lord knows, I've used the wrong words and such in the past myself. In a way, it does "coat" the cyl. walls in there, when the pistons go up and down. Its just not an applied coating.

I also agree with M758. If your not gonna want to put a bunch of money in the engine, just to track it out with, you'll probably do just fine with what ya got there. Its a judgement call you must make, depending on what all you want to spend, and get out of the car. If you have the means/tools to mic it all out, then COOL. If not, maybe a machine shop evaluation would be in order, I don't know. Your call. Good luck!
Old 12-12-2005, 09:18 PM
  #34  
Peckster
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You don't have to bring it up to temp to do a compression test, you don't even have to start it.


Originally Posted by StoogeMoe
I would have liked to have done a compression test before disassembly, but this engine came from a car that was in an accident. And the radiator was compromised and therefore had no coolant, so there was no way to bring the engine up to temperature. I did have the PO run it for five seconds. It started up right away and didn't pour out any plumes of smoke.

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Old 12-12-2005, 10:49 PM
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Geo
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Originally Posted by Peckster
You don't have to bring it up to temp to do a compression test, you don't even have to start it.
You do if you want it to be meaningful.
Old 12-12-2005, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Geo
You do if you want it to be meaningful.

Kinda what I was thinking also. But, again, with an unknown, out of car engine, what do ya do?

Unless, of course ya have a test stand, so ya can run it up to temp. A cold temp, on the ground test, will only tell ya if theres a REAL big problem, wouldn't it? And then, your only looking for a large difference in test pressures between cylinders at a much lower value? Considering the expansion of these aluminum blocks and all?
Old 12-13-2005, 01:42 AM
  #37  
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If the engine cannot be warmed to operating temp, about the only thing you really can do is a leak-down and while it's similar, it doesn't necessarily tell you the same things.



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