oil findings...
12-07-2005, 10:53 PM
#16
I've been running the Mobil 1 10W-30 in the winter and have had no thick oil problems here is CT. When warmed up, I do notice the oil pressure is a bit less than when using the M-1 15W-50 but it is still well within spec.
12-08-2005, 02:30 AM
#17
When I drove my 944 in the winter I used Castrol 5W-50 synthetic with no issues. At hot idle it did 2 bar at idle, ran just as well as ever? When I take it out for summer i'm going to try running M1 since it gots tons of praise.
_______
Pat
86 944
95 Audi 90 CS
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Pat
86 944
95 Audi 90 CS
12-08-2005, 07:37 AM
#18
Drifting
Thread Starter
hi,
sorry for the late reply, we just have too much work on and i ony have the internet at home.
the oil we use in these cars is valvoline 25-50. thats for sydney where the temp ranges from say 10 degrees celsius to 40 maximum. the 25-50 is rated at -10 lowest temp.
R1 fast eddie, i personally would use at least a 15-50 or even a 20-50 if the minimum temp is within range.
sm, you say your car will not start with a 15-50 oil in 0 degree weather? i take my 944 turbo to the snow every year and leave it in the car park at guthiga, where it will reach -10 or say a wind chill factor of -15 and my car starts ok. i would still recommend at least the 15-50 or preferably a 20-50.
sorry for the late reply, we just have too much work on and i ony have the internet at home.
the oil we use in these cars is valvoline 25-50. thats for sydney where the temp ranges from say 10 degrees celsius to 40 maximum. the 25-50 is rated at -10 lowest temp.
R1 fast eddie, i personally would use at least a 15-50 or even a 20-50 if the minimum temp is within range.
sm, you say your car will not start with a 15-50 oil in 0 degree weather? i take my 944 turbo to the snow every year and leave it in the car park at guthiga, where it will reach -10 or say a wind chill factor of -15 and my car starts ok. i would still recommend at least the 15-50 or preferably a 20-50.
12-08-2005, 08:15 AM
#19
Drifting
Thread Starter
hi joel
we have looked into the movement of flex plates, there are two of them. one at the front and one at the rear. now the rear flex plate is held in place by circlips ans simply cannot move the torque tube shaft forward. this rear flex plate is there to take up any expansion from the torque converter, which is minimal.
what does happen is the rear cupling comes loose over time(when it does it starts to destroy the splines on the shaft causing red dust)
now what effect does this have on the flex plate at the front? i will tell you. for every action there is a reaction, correct. for every time you accelerate hard from a standstil there is torque transmitted from the crank, torque tube, transmission, and then to the wheels. as you could imagine every component from the wheels to the crank are now under stress, which is the resistance from the road. these forces or resistance act upon the torque tube(which in this case has a loose rear cupling) causing it to want to move forward. the force at which the torque is being pushed forward is about 10 nm.
if we were to think this force was enough to push the crank forward and wear out the thrust bearing i will tell you why i believe not...
in a manual 928 with a stock clutch every time you put your foot on the clutch pedal it pulls the crank backwards with 1 and a half tonne. now thats a bit wore force then 10 nm. this leads me to believe that if 10 nm was enough force to wear the thrust bearing on a automatic 928 then the manual version would be more suseptable to thrust bearing falures.
we believe that both the manual and auto versions aer effected equally. it is just that there was a lot more automatics sold then manuals so the number of TBF on the manuals are equally percentage wise the same as autos. if that makes sense
of those 31 928 we found that had been running on thin oils and were on or exceeding the spec clearence 6 of those 928s were manuals.
it is a great idea to check and re torque the rear cupling bolt once a year, as it will destroy the splines on the torque tube shaft if left for a period of time.
we have also heard of torque tube shafts twisting and stretching. we have dismantle and rebuilt torque tubes for the past 6 years and have never seen one twisted or stretched. we do check the length of these shafts but stil have yet to see one stretch. so we think this is not an issue.
as i said im my first post we believe through our own experience, research and tests that this is an oil issue. and the problem lies within thin oils. 25-50 was the oil porsche was using in australia on these cars when new and they experienced no problems.
hope this helps
sean
we have looked into the movement of flex plates, there are two of them. one at the front and one at the rear. now the rear flex plate is held in place by circlips ans simply cannot move the torque tube shaft forward. this rear flex plate is there to take up any expansion from the torque converter, which is minimal.
what does happen is the rear cupling comes loose over time(when it does it starts to destroy the splines on the shaft causing red dust)
now what effect does this have on the flex plate at the front? i will tell you. for every action there is a reaction, correct. for every time you accelerate hard from a standstil there is torque transmitted from the crank, torque tube, transmission, and then to the wheels. as you could imagine every component from the wheels to the crank are now under stress, which is the resistance from the road. these forces or resistance act upon the torque tube(which in this case has a loose rear cupling) causing it to want to move forward. the force at which the torque is being pushed forward is about 10 nm.
if we were to think this force was enough to push the crank forward and wear out the thrust bearing i will tell you why i believe not...
in a manual 928 with a stock clutch every time you put your foot on the clutch pedal it pulls the crank backwards with 1 and a half tonne. now thats a bit wore force then 10 nm. this leads me to believe that if 10 nm was enough force to wear the thrust bearing on a automatic 928 then the manual version would be more suseptable to thrust bearing falures.
we believe that both the manual and auto versions aer effected equally. it is just that there was a lot more automatics sold then manuals so the number of TBF on the manuals are equally percentage wise the same as autos. if that makes sense
of those 31 928 we found that had been running on thin oils and were on or exceeding the spec clearence 6 of those 928s were manuals.
it is a great idea to check and re torque the rear cupling bolt once a year, as it will destroy the splines on the torque tube shaft if left for a period of time.
we have also heard of torque tube shafts twisting and stretching. we have dismantle and rebuilt torque tubes for the past 6 years and have never seen one twisted or stretched. we do check the length of these shafts but stil have yet to see one stretch. so we think this is not an issue.
as i said im my first post we believe through our own experience, research and tests that this is an oil issue. and the problem lies within thin oils. 25-50 was the oil porsche was using in australia on these cars when new and they experienced no problems.
hope this helps
sean
12-08-2005, 08:59 AM
#20
Rennlist Member
This is fascinating research - If you email me the data, I'll try to analyze it from a statistically, actuarial perspective.
BTW, does the oil swirl in the opposite direction down there?
BTW, does the oil swirl in the opposite direction down there?
