Uranium-235

I used an old creeper to roll the motor out. I had the car up higher, as I was using jackstands from my old lifted Ranger.

shortyboy

ok,can anyone give me a good guide to start from?thanx

lilredpo

Clark's...just print out each section you need, they're all linked at the top. Even tells you what tools you'll need.

I suggest getting a box of zip lock baggies and labeling evrything you remove. Take digital pics as well. Makes reassembly easier.


Good luck!

Yabo

I went out the top and bottom. When i had no rear engine lift point, i went around the left engine mount arm and the lift eye that is on the ac bracket. It was balanced with no stablizer that way too.

shortyboy

update:i took out the suspension,rack,spindles and control arms...needless to say it wasnt all that hard to take those off.the ones that were a little tuff was the torque tube bolts,the top ones.i got a suprise too,i was missing a lower TT bolt.everything is pretty much off,execpt for the harness,i dunno which way to go.yank the harness with the engine or leave the harness in the car.also,can i drape the possitive and neggative battery cables right over the engine and drop it with it?the bolts to get the possitive off(the bolts near the starter) are hard to get to.btw,ive never been this oilly working on my car.alot of gunk and dirty oil all over the place,looks like the PO never cared for this car.i think i may have also found the reason why my car is leaning on one side,maybe.i can see the passenger side is a little crumpled(by the crossmember)im guess if this part was a little crushed it would cause the un-eveness in ride height,or it could be the bushings on that side cuz they are really oilly and torn,even the swap bar bushings.hopefully i can get the engine on the ground tomarrow.im at the stage where i need to set the hoist on the engine and drop the cross-member,but im having a hard time with the harness.thanx

Zero10

Pull the harness WITH the engine. It just unhooks inside of the firewall from the DME and I think there are 2 other plugs there, then it all pushes through the firewall, it's very easy.
you can just leave the battery cables on the motor, no problem. That's how I instaled mine.
Crumpled by the crossmember, you mean the frame rail? That is bad.... It means front-end impapct.

lilredpo

Ditto. I took all harnesses with engine. Label each connector with a piece of masking tape. Plug A Etc.

USE ZIPLOCK BAGS FOR PARTS, LABEL AS WELL!

Makes reassembly easier.

shortyboy

update:i finally got the motor out!cheehoo.and it wasnt as hard as i thought id be.all it took for me to drop my engine today is 45mins maybe close to an hour.i secured the hoist to the block,using a load leveler using to rear head studs and the alternator studs.put a jack and 2x4 peice of wood under the x-member,took the x-member bolts off,took the engine mount bolts off,dropped the x-member,pulled the motor forward to disengage the torque tube(i bent some fins on the radiator,just a little bit),lowered the motor on a creeper,put some wood under the front of the oil pan and rolled it out.easy like butter!!! heres a few pics of the equipment(i also went out to checks and got a engine stand for $60) i used and parts/engine.enjoy!!!thanx again guys!!!!

shortyboy

well,i got the bell housing off now i need to know what size triple square/cheesehead/12 point serated bit do i need?how about for the flywheel?i think i read 12mm,but what about for the clutch?thanx

DDP

I would not have pulled the harness with the engine, ugh. Good luck to you though.

black944 turbo

The frame rail does not look crinkled. That is the heat retardent material and most of the cars I have seen do look a little crinkled. Mine fotunately is still straight for the most part, but it can bend very easily. Check under that for frame damage.

lilredpo

Nice braided lines