Head Rebuilding (8v)
#1
Head Rebuilding (8v)
OK guys. I tried to search on this and found some info, but not everything I want to know.
I am getting ready to rebuild one, and perhaps two, n/a 944 motors over the winter. I need to keep the heads basically stock because I need to follow rules for PCA and SCCA classes. PCA doesn't allow any mods. SCCA ICS class allows port matching only.
Here are my questions. First, should I rebuild my head myself, or should I send this part of the rebuild out to a shop, and why?
Second, what things should I ensure that I have done during the rebuild process, and what things are a waste of time/unnecessary, and why?
Third, if I rebuild my head myself, what parts should I order and from where?
Fourth, if I rely on a shop to rebuild my head, which shop do you recommend?
Thanks,
TD
I am getting ready to rebuild one, and perhaps two, n/a 944 motors over the winter. I need to keep the heads basically stock because I need to follow rules for PCA and SCCA classes. PCA doesn't allow any mods. SCCA ICS class allows port matching only.
Here are my questions. First, should I rebuild my head myself, or should I send this part of the rebuild out to a shop, and why?
Second, what things should I ensure that I have done during the rebuild process, and what things are a waste of time/unnecessary, and why?
Third, if I rebuild my head myself, what parts should I order and from where?
Fourth, if I rely on a shop to rebuild my head, which shop do you recommend?
Thanks,
TD
Last edited by TD in DC; 11-21-2005 at 11:47 AM.
#2
I dont know too much about the specifics, but, when I had my head serviced, they.. changed the valve guides, did a 3 angle valve cut, machined all the gasket surfaces, and pressure tested it, for 200 dollars. Cant beat that in my opinion. If thats all your looking to do, just take it to a shop and have it done unless you really want to do it yourself. The tools are gonna cost more then 200 for sure.
-Jeff
-Jeff
#3
Originally Posted by jmporsche944
I dont know too much about the specifics, but, when I had my head serviced, they.. changed the valve guides, did a 3 angle valve cut, machined all the gasket surfaces, and pressure tested it, for 200 dollars. Cant beat that in my opinion. If thats all your looking to do, just take it to a shop and have it done unless you really want to do it yourself. The tools are gonna cost more then 200 for sure.
-Jeff
-Jeff
please enlighten me as to where you had this done.
#5
Look no farther: Scott Gomes is your man. www.area951.com
Outstanding stock rebuild on my turbo head. Beautiful work and easy to work with.
Outstanding stock rebuild on my turbo head. Beautiful work and easy to work with.
#6
i agree, have the machine shop do the basic rebuild (clean, deck it, remove and check the valves for trueness, replace the valve guides, and grind the valve seats). i think $150-200 is probably a good estimate for that work. i paid over $500 but that was for a lot of other stuff too (grinding and polishing the crank, and working on the pistons etc).
TD - i got my rebuild sets (both upper and lower) from Zims in Fort Worth, TX. good prices. i also got a lot of miscellaneous parts from paragon products, and from 944online.com. Those were my three primary vendors of choice and I had no real problems with any of them.
TD - i got my rebuild sets (both upper and lower) from Zims in Fort Worth, TX. good prices. i also got a lot of miscellaneous parts from paragon products, and from 944online.com. Those were my three primary vendors of choice and I had no real problems with any of them.
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#9
My advice after two head rebuilds, one was a NA and the other a turbo is to take it to a shop on;y if you do not need valves replaced. My NA head had 7 out of 8 valves bent and I would have easily had over $300 in just valves alone, so I opted for 944Online's rebuilt head program. Awesome work and has a warranty. The 951 head just needed one exhaust valve, so I took it to a repuatble machine shop who mainly specializes in NASCAR and Truck/Tractor pulling type work (corn country around here folks). For just a tad over #300.00 I got a 5-angle valve job, some surface pitting welded up, cleaned and magnafluxed, O-ringed, resurfaced, and new guides installed. Pretty decent IMHO. Hope this helps!
#10
I just had mine done.
Labor (valves checked/measured, shaved .030", new seals/guides installed, hot tanked, welded in 3 spots to repair corrosion damage, 3-angle valve grind) was $221.
Parts (2 valves, 8 guides, 8 seals) supplied by me was ~$100.
Grand total, $321.
This is a shop in So Cal that I have been using for 8 years or so. He doesn't let a head leave his shop unless it's perfect.
For parts, try bmaparts.com or pelicanparts.com.
I would have a shop do it. Don't waste time (money) with port work...the stock ports are good enough for the stock camshaft. And remember, if you have it decked to raise the compression...you're going to have retarded cam timing which you can only correct with an adjustable cam gear. The ONLY place I've seen these is Lindsay Racing, and they are $300. If anyone knows another source for adj. cam gears, please let me know!
Labor (valves checked/measured, shaved .030", new seals/guides installed, hot tanked, welded in 3 spots to repair corrosion damage, 3-angle valve grind) was $221.
Parts (2 valves, 8 guides, 8 seals) supplied by me was ~$100.
Grand total, $321.
This is a shop in So Cal that I have been using for 8 years or so. He doesn't let a head leave his shop unless it's perfect.
For parts, try bmaparts.com or pelicanparts.com.
I would have a shop do it. Don't waste time (money) with port work...the stock ports are good enough for the stock camshaft. And remember, if you have it decked to raise the compression...you're going to have retarded cam timing which you can only correct with an adjustable cam gear. The ONLY place I've seen these is Lindsay Racing, and they are $300. If anyone knows another source for adj. cam gears, please let me know!
#11
Originally Posted by URIN 2ND
I just had mine done.
Labor (valves checked/measured, shaved .030", new seals/guides installed, hot tanked, welded in 3 spots to repair corrosion damage, 3-angle valve grind) was $221.
Parts (2 valves, 8 guides, 8 seals) supplied by me was ~$100.
Grand total, $321.
This is a shop in So Cal that I have been using for 8 years or so. He doesn't let a head leave his shop unless it's perfect.
For parts, try bmaparts.com or pelicanparts.com.
I would have a shop do it. Don't waste time (money) with port work...the stock ports are good enough for the stock camshaft. And remember, if you have it decked to raise the compression...you're going to have retarded cam timing which you can only correct with an adjustable cam gear. The ONLY place I've seen these is Lindsay Racing, and they are $300. If anyone knows another source for adj. cam gears, please let me know!
Labor (valves checked/measured, shaved .030", new seals/guides installed, hot tanked, welded in 3 spots to repair corrosion damage, 3-angle valve grind) was $221.
Parts (2 valves, 8 guides, 8 seals) supplied by me was ~$100.
Grand total, $321.
This is a shop in So Cal that I have been using for 8 years or so. He doesn't let a head leave his shop unless it's perfect.
For parts, try bmaparts.com or pelicanparts.com.
I would have a shop do it. Don't waste time (money) with port work...the stock ports are good enough for the stock camshaft. And remember, if you have it decked to raise the compression...you're going to have retarded cam timing which you can only correct with an adjustable cam gear. The ONLY place I've seen these is Lindsay Racing, and they are $300. If anyone knows another source for adj. cam gears, please let me know!
We got 0.2mm shaved, roughly 0.0078". When we measured the spots the factory has on the cylinder head, they measured 0.5mm deep, or 0.019".
#12
Originally Posted by HughA44s
TD,
Where in DC are you. I have had great work done twice by a shop in Woodbridge, VA. I am about to have another head rebuilt for the same goal as you - PCA-H. If your interested, let me know.
Where in DC are you. I have had great work done twice by a shop in Woodbridge, VA. I am about to have another head rebuilt for the same goal as you - PCA-H. If your interested, let me know.
I am in Georgetown, so really "DC." I would be very, very interested in hearing what you have to say. Please PM me if you do not want to post here.
Thanks,
TD
#14
TD,
I am still going to try and get up there during break and what not. Are you guys going to be wrenching? I'd love to come out and meet you guys and maybe help by throwing down what little bit of 944 knowledge I have by wrenching with you guys.
The unfortunate part of it is that I have taken on about 3 times as much stuff as I should have for the break. But that is the nature of the beast I guess.
FWIW I would definately have a shop do the head rebuild for you. Check out the valves etc.. Although on the N/A you should be straight. Have them grind the valve seats and press in new guides. You will really be suprised at how well the motor runs when you have it all back together. Also, I agree with the two motors. Definately a good plan. I am looking at the same thing for my 951 if I chose to got that route.....
I am still going to try and get up there during break and what not. Are you guys going to be wrenching? I'd love to come out and meet you guys and maybe help by throwing down what little bit of 944 knowledge I have by wrenching with you guys.
The unfortunate part of it is that I have taken on about 3 times as much stuff as I should have for the break. But that is the nature of the beast I guess.
FWIW I would definately have a shop do the head rebuild for you. Check out the valves etc.. Although on the N/A you should be straight. Have them grind the valve seats and press in new guides. You will really be suprised at how well the motor runs when you have it all back together. Also, I agree with the two motors. Definately a good plan. I am looking at the same thing for my 951 if I chose to got that route.....