Campeck

Today i changed out the amster cylinder. only to find that once we pressurized it to bleed the brakes. it started leaking... which leads me to beleive that pressurizing old master cylinders isnt a good idea. so whenever i need to brake i have to hit the brakes once. then quickly hit them again so the car will start.
and in about to go 2 hours on the highway to my grandparents.

with the 10 in 300# springs i can actuallly lower the car more than stock. next is the eccentric bolt in the back. we forgot about it today. so the car has one hell of a rake.

(do ppl sell rebuild kits for master cylinders?)
pics: the guy sitting on the tire is my dad. aribop. and thats me pulling my hair out cause the car never seems to be done!!!
the negative lets you see the ride height better. at least on my monitor. enjoy!

Manning

Dude, seriously do not drive your car with malfunctioning brakes.

Aribop, if you let him drive that car like that, well, your parenting abilities will seriously be in question in my eyes.

Start the pool on how quickly Campeck stuffs this car.

joseph mitro

what are you doing about the rear suspension? i doubt you can lower it enough with the eccentric to match the rear. looks like you'll need to re-index.

L8 APEKS

Not to mention a majorly mis-matched spring rate front to rear. Sounds like bigger torsion bars are in order.

tifosiman

I think that is a little too low in the front, especially considering the fact it still has a lowish spring rate up there and has the stock a-arms and balljoints. That's a recipe for BJ/A-arm failure. I'd crank the front up about 1/2 to 3/4 inches more, then drop the back with the eccentric. That should put you close to level all around. As others have mentioned, 300lbs up front and stock t-bars in the rear = bigtime understeer. Are you upping the rear spring rate by changing out the t-bars or adding coil-overs?

Techno Duck

When you do adjust the rear camber eccentric, can you give a indepth writeup on how its done? I know there are a number of write ups around and info, however id like to be abosolutley sure how to adjust this when i do it. My car is the same way right now, i lowered the front about 3/4 of an inch and the back sits a bit to high, about one inch when measuring from the center of the wheel to the fender.

I am hoping it cures a 'feathery' feeling i get while doing highspeed sweepers from the rear end. I only feel it at autocross events where im really pushing it to the limits.

Car is looking great though, talk about coming a long way!

Geo

Tifo is correct, 300# springs are not nearly stiff enough to prevent balljoint failure when lowering.

will951

I dropped it off at the local shop to do the eccentrics. Mostly bcz of the massive bolt you have to loosen....no way do I have the tools for it. Took the shop about 25 minutes start to finish....

Some info here..... http://www.elephantracing.com/projec...ngplatediy.htm

Serge944

High, undervalved spring rates, although a performance compromise, are very streetable. You want to slam? Thats what youll have to do.

And do something about the spring rate bias - your car's most likely a sled in the corners at the limit.

Campeck

ide like to clear up the brake problem a little. (im posting from athens..ie. i made it.)

its not like when i push the brakes the car doesnt stop... its like...bad NA brakes. its a little spongy. then a quick tap brings it up to turbo brakes. no biggie.
and if my dad thought it was beyond me to drive to athens he would have said no. he called me after you read my post to see how it was going. thanks for freaking him out.

as for the handling. you bet your *** the car understeers. lol. but theres no real need to be "pushing the limits" right now. as for the balljoints...doesnt rennbay sell a lowering balljoint kit that solves that problem? I know of some roads where if i go over 30 i used to bottom out. now i can go over 40 with no problem. even with it lowered. so i find it hard to beilieve that 300# isnt high enough...

the rear... when i have MONEY i want to get some shocks that will hold springs and put 400# and delete the torsion bars.

Manning

It was nothing to roll your eyes at Ashton. It would have been bad enough if you had stabbed the brakes and hadn't been able to get the car to stop. It would have been something entirely different if you had piled into a bunch of other folks or a crowd of people. If your MC is leaking enough so that mashing the brake pedal slams it to the floor, then you plain and simple should not be driving the car, even if you can get it to pump up with extra pedal strokes. How many more times do you think you will be able to get away with that. The fact is you don't and cannot know. Stay off the street until you fix it, for the sake of the other people on the road.

Serge944

Yup, you can get longer ball joints so that the balljoing and control arm are fairly perpendicular at rest.

I would go for a 500 lb rear spring, btw. You'll get a better bias

MoonBoy

Why?

Geo

The issue with the balljoints is not bumpsteer, but binding. Indeed 300# springs are entirely too soft to lower much at all. The only thing that may save your behind is with the Ground Control CC plates they take up about 1" of travel (from what I'm told) and this itself may cause the suspension to bottom before the balljoints bind. If I were you I'd put the car on stands, remove the spring and using a jack, move the suspension until it bottoms and see of the balljoint binds. This is serious. There have been people with much high spring rates that have bound their balljoints and the failure is catastrophic. I'm not kidding. Check it out when you get home.

As for the brakes, I've done dumber things, but I agree with Manning. If your pedal EVER goes to the floor or gets really really mushy, you need to correct this. You're driving on public roads and it's possible to kill people if something goes wrong. Get it fixed.

GlenL

Might not be your problem, but I did just do the fourth bleed cycle on my car after putting in a new master. This time it feels nice.

Drove it while mushy and needed an extra pump, occasionally. It's a real dilemma as using the brakes, and the action of the car, will move the bubbles to the bleeders. Not smart but not much option. If the first quart of ATE Gold doesn't get it, the second quart in the session ain't going to either.