Is anyone aware of a step-by-step guide for swapping engines in 944s? Thanks.

 

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/eng-01.htm
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/eng-02.htm

 

Or we can make our own:

Step 1- Disconnect the negative battery cable

 

Excellent. Thanks. I don't know why, but I have a hard time navigating Clark's site. That's very helpful

 

workshop manual is pretty useful if you don't have it. i also have a ton of photos on my link which is mostly about rebuilding, not swapping.

 

Long story short...

1) Disconnect everything that connects the engine to the rest of the car.
2) Lower engine out bottom (or out the top, if that floats your boat).
3) Have a drink.

 

Matt,
Step two has an option...out the top or out the bottom
What is the difference and which is better???

 

TD,
You stuff should go in the mail today. Wife forgot yesterday.

I have pulled engines out the bottom and out the top. I perfer out the bottom. It is the factory recommended method.

 

I'm an "out the bottom" type of guy. I found it much easier. You can remove the entire suspension in a matter of minutes. Of course, I have never done it out the top so I yield to M758. Out the bottom was cake though. See my website.

 

if you go out the top, you must remove the bellhousing first, this makes out the top worthwhile. Otherwise, quite difficult

 

I went out the top with bell housing on.

I did it , but it was a royal pain. Never again.


Out the bottom is not that bad.

Here is my basic procedure. in 15 easy steps... :P

1) Disconnect the engine from electrical, coolant, fuel lines.
2) Pull the radiator (for clearance), streering rack, control arms, sway bar. You can infact leave the struts hanging from the tub.
3) pull exhaust. split it where the 1-4, and 2-3 pipes meet the cat pipe. You can leave the muffler scecion on the car.
4) take off 4 bolts that connect the torque tube to the bell housing.
5) remove cap and rotor for more clearance
6) Attache engine hoist.
7) tighten hoist and then pull 4 cross member bolts.
8) Pull engine forward in the chassis about 5-6". Keep it level and at the origina height.
7) Once the torque tube shaft has pulled out of the bell housing lower the engine down, weight on cross member and bell housing.
8) Disconnect the 2-3 lines. wires you forgot to pull in step 1 (there will always be some)
9) Disconnect engine from hoist and use hoist to raise the front of the car and put on large jackstands
10) Slide engine out under the front spoiler.
11) lower car to more reasonable height.
12) break loose main crank nut using flywheel lock (you can't do it without the locking the flywheel)
13) remove bell housing, clutch and flywheel
13) put engine in engine stand (note when in the stand you don't have access to the flywheel and the stand bolts in where the bell housing does.)
14) rebuild engine per desires.
15) installation is reverse of removal.

 

now here's the question of the day- for a 951, when doing a clutch job what's easier? pulling the motor and doing the clutch, or doing the clutch with the engine in the car? discuss.

 

Clutch in the car.

The problem with motor out is that the whole "while your in there" thing comes up and before you know it you have rebuilt motor and big credit card debt.

 

Kinda' like the Haynes manual procedure -

(1) Disconnect battery cable

(2) Secure care on jackstands. Make sure that jackstands are secure and rated for the weight of the car. Also make sure the jackstands are approved for this make/model of car and have been inspected by a UL-certified inspector within the last six months, and that the appropriate sign-off and stamp have been reviewed. Ensure that the car is laterally braced against the possibilitiy of a 6.0 or higher earthquake and that the panic buttons for use by an individual trapped under a falling vehicle are in place before approaching the vehicle (required by OSHA code 9734.349796.345798). Make sure that you have no less than six fire extinguishers handy as well, located at the corner points of the vehicle and the remaining two near the doors. Once the vehicle is secured, apply three steel cable tie-downs to prevent lateral shifting, minimum 1/4", 60-braid cable rated for 20 kip minimum tensile loads. Anchor using approved fasteners to the existing anchor eyes cast into the concrete slab of the garage floor. If you do not have anchor eyes cast into your garage floor, see a professional mechanic before proceeding further. Approach the vehicle cautiously and ONLY while accompanied by a "buddy" equipped with two-way radio, telephone and emergency first-aid kit. Make sure to use a one-piece kevlar-lined mechanic's suit with no external loops or fasteners that can snag on anything. Also make certain your head is freshly shaved to avoid the possibility of hair getting caught in moving parts. Wear your helmet! Only DOT-approved helmets should be worn.

(3) Disconnect all the crap going to the engine.

(4) Remove the engine.

(5) Installation is opposite of removal.

That'll be $19.95 for the book, please. No refunds.

 

Now that was funny!