Jason-85944

BTW...definately do the Koni's at the same time as the springs unless you like to do things twice and pay for 2 alignments.

The KLA monoball strut mounts for the fronts are an incredible bargin at $115 as well. I love them!!

-J

ivai

on the turbo board waterboy mentioned ride height adjustables.. I think i'm gonna stay away from that. I'm really starting to like the idea of getting all new konis + front springs, and the M030 sways. If I replace the sways at a later date, will I have to get another alignment?

I like the option of being able to get torsion bars later if I want to, but not having to.

Jason-85944

Ivai...I think you've got an excellent plan. Koni's and 250lbs. first, then mess with sways...they do not require alignments.

-J

Serge944

Are your struts going bad? Dampers are the most important part of the suspension and shouldn't be dead last on the list.

Most important....after droplinks of course.

ivai

Yeah.. springs up front and shocks all around looks like the current plan first and foremost.

tifosiman

My suspension now is a little more hardcore (400lb springs in the front, 400lbs in the back plus t-bars), but my first suspension mod years back was to slap a set of Konis and 250's in the front, and 968 sway on the rear (the car originally had no rear sway when I bought it). For driving on the street like a normal person, it was fine. But, on the limit at an autocross, it understeered severely. This was on street tires with 225's at all four corners. Granted, everyone's driving style is slightly different, but think about this for a moment. The car came from the factory with a tendancy to understeer. Adding another @ 110lbs to the front spring rate, and trying to balance that out with a 19mm rear sway, just isn't going to work. I know that Jason has a similar set up, and the 19mm rear sway is better than not having one back there, but it does not balance out the spring increase in the front. Like I said, it is better than not having the 19mm sway, but not the best solution and you will find that understeer. Jason, you have only done one event with your set up so far, and as you adjust your driving style and start pushing it harder with this new set up and your new race tires, you will find the understeer.

Robby

I agree w/Tifo here- Not to discount what anyone else here is saying, they all have their points, but, trying to even out spring rates w/sway bars is the wrong way to go about things IMO... My turbo S squatted terribly under acceleration when stock. I wanted to err on the side of caution, so, decided on 225lb springs w/27mm t-bars... The ratio from front to rear rates actually changes in relation to the increase in rates... By the time most get to around 400lb fronts, the rear spring rate is usually a little less... Tifo's set-up should be somewhere in the neighborhood of 400lbs total, give or take...?

I ended up going to 275lb fronts w/100lb rear helpers & 25.5mm t-bars... I originally had 225's up front w/the 100lb rear helpers & it oversteered slightly for a street car. I think 250's would be a perfect match... Either way, I really like the way the rear feels under acceleration w/the 100's- the dive has been greatly reduced & feels much more stable. I now plan to go w/larger t-bars though... I will never do springs in the rear again, for a street car. I've had quite a few problems w/the helpers. So, I'm going to 28mm T-bars & plan to keep the 275's up front & will eventually go to 968M030 sways... I'm going to have my Koni Turbo S shocks rebuilt & made DBL adj & am getting Koni Cups for the rear... Currently I have Ledas & am not very happy w/them... Still not sure about all bushings, but, being a street car, I'm probably staying w/stock M030 rubber... Also, A-arms... another issue- not sure at all what to do here, as I'm needing new bushings- not ball-joints, but, will do those at same time... Going to look into brand new 968 M030 a-arms, but, am assuming this will be cost prohibitive... Of course, unfortunately, all the other options are pretty pricey too...

So, I would stick to shocks & springs first... Then, worry about sways & such later... T-bars are the biggest prob... Of course, you'll have to factor in a good $250 for alignment. Replacing sways will not neccessitate an aligment though... you might be better off buying things one at a time & then saving a little for labor to have it all put on at once... Most suspensions will run you >$2K by the time labor is added & this does not include sways...

My old set-up:
Ledas- non-adj oil shocks (not a good street choice IMO): $1200
Springs: $125
Helpers: $125
Aligment: $250
Labor to install: $400
Labor to get rear helpers right & keep from rubbing driver side: $100
Total: $2200

My new set-up:
Turbo S Konis (rebuilt DBL adj): $450
Koni Cup rears (w/out helpers): $575
28mm T-bars (hollow IF I can ever find them): $400 (if not, then, $250)
Labor to install w/t-bars, etc: $600+(?)
Alignment (again): $250
Total: $2275 ($2125 when I give up on finding hollow t-bars, which, is probably what will happen).

Good luck...

Serge944

Alignment for $250? Do they detail the undercarriage while they're in there?

Robby

that's sort of the way I feel, but, what do you do....? Evidently, the 944 takes a special tool to align the rear- "two things have to be done at once" is the way it was described to me... I don't know any details, but, have always been told that it would take a few hours... I might not have paid a full $250... Actually, I think I paid $200, but, that was 4hrs labor @ $50/hr & their usual rate was $60. Of course, then they probably would have charged me 3.5hrs at that rate... The local dealer wanted $275 minimum & it, along w/the shop I went to, said they could go much higher depending on how "technical" I wanted to go... The shop I went to could also corner balance, though, something that I'm sure the dealer could not...

CurlyDE

I think the local Porsche shop in this area charged me $140-150ish to align the car. I have no clue what they charge to corner balance ...