Does anyone have a reference sensor plug?
#1
Does anyone have a reference sensor plug?
My car would not start this evening when I tried to move it around to work on it a bit. After poking around for a while I found that the wires from one of the reference sensors is all cracked and most likely shorted against each other.
Does anyone have, or know where I can get, a new plug on the wireing harnes side?
Also, can those wires shorting damage the DME since the car still wouldn't start with them separated with electrical tape. I know I've got spark and fuel to the rail, just no injector action. The DME relay is also ok as I tried my spare to no avail.
Does anyone have, or know where I can get, a new plug on the wireing harnes side?
Also, can those wires shorting damage the DME since the car still wouldn't start with them separated with electrical tape. I know I've got spark and fuel to the rail, just no injector action. The DME relay is also ok as I tried my spare to no avail.
#2
www.eagleday.com or www.kayjayco.com
Eagleday has connectors like the ones on the harness, as well as the rubber booties. KayJayCo has the next up connectors, called Junior Power Timer connectors. Stock ones are called Junior Timer. They are compatible with each other. Ill see if I can figure out which wire goes to which pin, as there are three wires. Two actual wires, and then a braided sheath.
The metal fittings inside the shells are pretty simple. You crimp and solder the wires on, then the fittings click into the housings.
Eagleday has connectors like the ones on the harness, as well as the rubber booties. KayJayCo has the next up connectors, called Junior Power Timer connectors. Stock ones are called Junior Timer. They are compatible with each other. Ill see if I can figure out which wire goes to which pin, as there are three wires. Two actual wires, and then a braided sheath.
The metal fittings inside the shells are pretty simple. You crimp and solder the wires on, then the fittings click into the housings.
#4
Originally Posted by skene
That's exactly what I was looking for! Thanks!
Now hopefully nothing blew out when the wires shorted...
Now hopefully nothing blew out when the wires shorted...
Tried wiggling the wires and connectors, pushing them together and such?
#5
I thought the connectors were only available on the female side of the sensor plug. It's always the male sensor side that seems to get damaged the worst. I'm still looking for tthe male side connector so I can get rid of the Ty-Raps that currently hold both sensor plugs together at the bracket. I already bought some Amp Mil Spec twist lock connectors in case I can't get what I need.
#6
This is way after the fact. This thread died 6 years ago, but it helped me today :-) eagleday didn't have the male ( 3-pin) AMP connectors. I checked ebay and ordered some, but also ordered a set of "Bosch Style (Amp Junior Power Timer) 3 pin connector" kits (one male one female). From efiexpress.com Efi Express. ($32 incl shipping)
They arrived quickly, but I was nervous about cutting into the leads, thinking, if I screw this up, I may end up having to drop the transmission, given my skills.
As others have noted, the male side of the coupler (flywheel side) had disintegrated, the female side was in tact. Using channel locks, I dissected the male side so only the leads with the ends still on them, were left. DO NOT CLIP THE OLD LEADS OFF THE WIRES. (order from front of car to back = 1) aluminum lead ground, 2) orange, 3) black)
*** THOSE LEADS CLICKED INTO THE NEW BOSCH PLUG *** Meaning there was no need to clip any wires. One thing, make sure you install the new rubber boot that comes with the new assembly before clicking the old leads into the new bosch male assembly.
I then started to dissect the female plug assembly. I found, with the hard plastic outer sleeve clipped away, that the new male plug fits into the old female plug !!! The car runs and I have quit while I am ahead. I used a few zip ties to secure the connection and left the old female plug in place for now.
Maybe this weekend I will dissect the female end and make the thing the way it is supposed to be. It is rare I find something working as well as it did this afternoon and wanted to add that 2 cents to the next person looking for an answer.
They arrived quickly, but I was nervous about cutting into the leads, thinking, if I screw this up, I may end up having to drop the transmission, given my skills.
As others have noted, the male side of the coupler (flywheel side) had disintegrated, the female side was in tact. Using channel locks, I dissected the male side so only the leads with the ends still on them, were left. DO NOT CLIP THE OLD LEADS OFF THE WIRES. (order from front of car to back = 1) aluminum lead ground, 2) orange, 3) black)
*** THOSE LEADS CLICKED INTO THE NEW BOSCH PLUG *** Meaning there was no need to clip any wires. One thing, make sure you install the new rubber boot that comes with the new assembly before clicking the old leads into the new bosch male assembly.
I then started to dissect the female plug assembly. I found, with the hard plastic outer sleeve clipped away, that the new male plug fits into the old female plug !!! The car runs and I have quit while I am ahead. I used a few zip ties to secure the connection and left the old female plug in place for now.
Maybe this weekend I will dissect the female end and make the thing the way it is supposed to be. It is rare I find something working as well as it did this afternoon and wanted to add that 2 cents to the next person looking for an answer.
#7
I need to place another order...
FWIW, $32 for 2 connectors... really?
OH, and 944 online has them too, correct Bosch parts, got them from the same place I get mine (same Bosch distributor in fact)...
Search for "connector group buy"...
That is all...