This just started yesterday as I was driving around a bit during the day. I noticed my battery light coming on in my 84' NA. Then a little while later no light. Tonight while driving to work all was good till about half way there, then the light comes on in the dash. I did notice my lights were not as white looking hence the reduced input to them (have relay kit and adj voltage reg). Got to work, car sat then fired right up and again no charge light (good). I then stop for gasoline, shut the car off, pump, then get back in and I notice when I turn the key on the battery light in the dash will not even illuminate at all! I fire the car and there it appears glowing red at me. I make it home and it was fading brighter and dimmer (dimmer while rpm increased). I throw my meter on it upon arriving home and I was getting around 12V to a little under with the cooling fans on. Off I was getting around 13V. I know I should be and have gotten easy 14+V at the battery.
The car has 209K on it.
Alternator was rebuilt at 132k
Adj Volt Reg + Relay kit + Supplemental ground installed at 189k

I will put in my spare OE voltage regulator and see what happens.
Any suggestions? TIA!

What throws me is the coming and going of the problem.

 

Clean all of the grounds; clean the connections at the battery, alternator and starter. How old is the battery?

 

Thanks for the reply. The Battery was new early this year. The two main chassis ground on the frame rails up front are clean have some dielectric grease on them to help prevent corrosion. I will let you all know what I find.

 

I must concur. Check the MAIN grounds. = Starter Pos, bellhousing and intake ground.

Clean them all. If you have battery drain, there is a bad positive. DONT forget the main leads to the fuel pump.

Charlie- when I get to Rockford- I'll look you up. I'll be in Freeport soon.

 

Hey good deal Chris, look forward to hearing from you. I took out the Adj Voltage Reg and it was worn down to nubs!! I will post a pic here later. I ended up putting a like new Bosch reg from the Callaway 944 into the 84' and no problems!

 

Do NOT charge a gremlin, they will attack! You must sneak up on them from the side(they have very poor periferal vision due to their close together eyes).

Glad to hear you are running again man!

 

LOL! Thanks man! Awesome work on your 949 project, I hope to see it at the Fest or elsewhere someday
Here are some pictures of the regulator...I was really hoping for it to last longer!

 

Thanks! Yeah the brushes were toast it looks like. Wonder why they went so quick??

I'll tell ya man, I don't think I've seen a Callaway in person, yours looks to be the one to see!

 

Thank you Andy! I wish I knew why the brushes went so fast...not sure if it is because of the higher voltage output or just a lower quality of carbon brush? The Callaway's original paint (Saphire Met) is rough due to it was left outside all it's life, mainly in Texas. But the custom overlay pain is is good shape. Used to be former PCA club racer out east in the mid-late 80's. Neat car though, and the spool up is devilshly quick! Here are some pics:
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/ca...ot_2_copy1.jpg

 

Sweet man, I like that alot!

 

There are a couple of things that will cause the brushes to wear out prematurely:

1: Worn/pitted slip rings.
2: Dirt.

What I would recommend is pulling the alternator and giving it a good visual inspection, particularly where the brushes ride on the slip rings. If you see a lot of crud and carbon dust, use some electrical component cleaner (available at Pep Boys and the line) and give the altternator a good cleaning. DO NOT use Carb or Brake Parts cleaner!

Good slip rings will have a chocolate colored patina and will be nice and smooth. However, I've seen several alternators that had deep grooves worn in the slip rings, and in one case the grooves were so deep the brushes were extended about 3/4 of the way out of the brush holders.

If the slip rings are grooved, get a rebuilt alternator and save your self some trouble down the road.

If you have any oil leaks on the driver side of the engine the alternator will suck up oil vapor and dirt, which will combine to form a very agressive "lapping compound." This will eat brushes and slip rings VERY quickly. This is one reason the later cars have a cooling duct. The ducting allows the alternator to draw "clean" air from the front of the car and prevents the ingenstion of oil vapors. Not only do the brushes and slip rings last longer, the alternator runs cooler.