S engine removal.
#1
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S engine removal.
I have a few questions for anyone that has removed an S engine.
What did you use as the rear lift point?
What do I need to disconnect at the bell housing.
What did you use to attach the chain from the hoist to the engine?
Thanks for the help.
What did you use as the rear lift point?
What do I need to disconnect at the bell housing.
What did you use to attach the chain from the hoist to the engine?
Thanks for the help.
#2
I hope this helps....
I actually supported the engine diagonally, so I had control over forward/ backward tilting as well as twisting. It's a VERY tight squeeze getting the motor out the top of the car.....
It was a while ago when I did it, so I can't remember all the details, but I believe the later engine (1988) had a support at the rear of the cylinder head, there may be a bolthole that you can use around the back?
Good luck with it!!!
p.s. be careful of the crank position sensor at the flywheel, it's easy to knock it.
I actually supported the engine diagonally, so I had control over forward/ backward tilting as well as twisting. It's a VERY tight squeeze getting the motor out the top of the car.....
It was a while ago when I did it, so I can't remember all the details, but I believe the later engine (1988) had a support at the rear of the cylinder head, there may be a bolthole that you can use around the back?
Good luck with it!!!
p.s. be careful of the crank position sensor at the flywheel, it's easy to knock it.
#5
Race Car
there are two hoist eyelets......one at the rear of the head, and the other at the front under the air intake, bolted to the engine mount bracket. i actually used a 4-chain system with two chains bolted to the side of the head using the 13mm bolts, and one chain bolted to the area where the front eyelet is bolted down. i couldn't use the fourth chain because it was too short, so the engine was a little lopsided, but it came out from below with some effort.
i removed the bellhousing intact and still connected to the block, i simply disconnected the 4 bolts holding the torque tube to the bellhousing.
here's some pics. the first 2 show the eyelets, the last shows how i raised mine.
i removed the bellhousing intact and still connected to the block, i simply disconnected the 4 bolts holding the torque tube to the bellhousing.
here's some pics. the first 2 show the eyelets, the last shows how i raised mine.
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The 2 that I have pulled out of the parts cars, didn't have the eyelet on the back for some reason. That is why I got stuck having to undo the bell housing bolt. Sure would have been a lot easier with the eyelet still on it!!!
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Thanks guys.
I do not have the rear eyelet either.
I am wanting to remove the engine from the top. Will I need to remove the bell housing first?
Or can I just remove the torque tube?
I do not have the rear eyelet either.
I am wanting to remove the engine from the top. Will I need to remove the bell housing first?
Or can I just remove the torque tube?
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#8
Nordschleife Master
I dropped my engine out the bottem as Joe described with bellhousing intake. I doubt that you can pull it out the top with the bellhousing still attached but I could be wrong.
#9
Originally Posted by Lemming
I dropped my engine out the bottem as Joe described with bellhousing intake. I doubt that you can pull it out the top with the bellhousing still attached but I could be wrong.
#10
RL Community Team
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I did my S engine from the bottom too. Basically followed the factory service manual and had no problems. The only thing I would do differently next time is remove the alternator as well, as it was a close fit between it and the frame side member.
I was fortunate to have the rear lifting eye on mine, but you may have the two threaded holes on the back of you cylinder head and just need the eye (perhaps you can fashion one up or get one from the dealer (page from PET is shown below).
Definitely use a load leveler (the device between the hoist and engine in Joseph's picture) so you can control the angle of the engine. If you lower the engine out, put a piece of heavy cardboard or carpet on the floor. It is surprisingly easy to pull the engine this way. Also, you will need to elevate the front of the car to a minimum 21" vertical height, measured to the back edge of the bottom of the front fender.
Good luck!
I was fortunate to have the rear lifting eye on mine, but you may have the two threaded holes on the back of you cylinder head and just need the eye (perhaps you can fashion one up or get one from the dealer (page from PET is shown below).
Definitely use a load leveler (the device between the hoist and engine in Joseph's picture) so you can control the angle of the engine. If you lower the engine out, put a piece of heavy cardboard or carpet on the floor. It is surprisingly easy to pull the engine this way. Also, you will need to elevate the front of the car to a minimum 21" vertical height, measured to the back edge of the bottom of the front fender.
Good luck!
Last edited by 500; 07-29-2014 at 01:21 PM.