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944's DO rust !

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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 11:42 AM
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Talking 944's DO rust !

Hey all,

My 944S is in the bodyshop at the mo getting some tlc and emptying my pockets at the same time. These are some before pictures of most of the damaged areas. Will post some after pictures when the job is complete












Regards

Dave K.
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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 11:46 AM
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Wow, I've never seen corrosion that bad on a 944 before. Do bodyshops in the UK still use/recommend Waxoyl? Or will they use some other type of rust/corrosion preventative.
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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 11:49 AM
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How did you manage that?
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Old Jun 29, 2005 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Uranium-235
How did you manage that?
Dunno ! - poor maintenance by the PO I guess - then turns out someone bodged the previous repairs using fibreglass filler, if you look closely you will notice the stonechip is not the correct type and also does not match the body colour !

The bodyshop said they will waxoyl it afterwards too.
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 01:13 AM
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I'm betting thae drain holes have been blocked for years.
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 01:19 AM
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I bet my 944 has more rust than yours Mine has so much it deserves a lightweight edition insignia I mean my 84...
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 01:23 AM
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Maybe someone used it to launch a boat in salt water, like my previous rangie (the rear half of the chassis was rustting off).

Makes me wonder... if anyones ever launched a boat wiht the 44. I'll have to do that sometime and take pics.
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 01:41 AM
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was it repainted? if so did they sand it to the bare metal?
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 01:46 AM
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Apparently the zinc coating was removed one way or another.
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 01:58 AM
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Undoubtedly - that's the worst I've ever seen - including wrecked junkyard cars. These things do not rust AT ALL if maintained properly. There's one vulnerable spot at the rear of the front fenders, but that's about it.
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 02:57 AM
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I've been a corrosion engineer for about 30 years now, either that car was parked in a saltwater pool or the PO drove all winter, every winter, since it was new. I hope you realize that every place the galvanizing is ground off you will have accellerated corrosion in the future if you live in a road salt state, You would be smart to use a zinc rich layer first on all the bare and sanded repair sections. I would use a good surface tolerant 'aluminum epoxy mastic' under any paint/undercoating you plan to use. Por-15 might sound good on paper but it doesn't really "convert" rust, all it does is nuetralize active corrosion(red), turn it black, and it provides a very, very poor bonding surface for any planned top coat treatments. Nothing beats a good surface prep to white metal for compromised conditions like you show. Then you can make any repairs you want but the car will never be 'as good as new'.
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 02:59 AM
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Open the door. Remove the plastic grill in the door frame below the locking mechanism. Take a smal digital camera and take a photo of the interior of the the sill. My sill is covered in rust flakes along its length. It is a UK import. I've fish oiled the entire sill, and this has stopped any further rusting, as far as I could tell. It's not structural, so I'll leave it for now. It be interested in how much they are charging you for the repair, Dave.
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 03:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Kokopelli
Open the door. Remove the plastic grill in the door frame below the locking mechanism. Take a smal digital camera and take a photo of the interior of the the sill. My sill is covered in rust flakes along its length. It is a UK import. I've fish oiled the entire sill, and this has stopped any further rusting, as far as I could tell. It's not structural, so I'll leave it for now. It be interested in how much they are charging you for the repair, Dave.
It may not be structural yet but if you can see surface corrosion on vertical surfaces behind that door vent piece, just imagine what the areas below are like where water pooled. Once that galvanizing is compromised it can be all downhill unless another sacrificial coating is applied to the subject area. You can try to arrest it with fish oil or wax but it's temporary at best. In my business we have a slogan "Once it's red you're Dead". 'Rust never Sleeps', Hell you are lucky if you can get it to take a freakin nap, but financially it's been very good to me and keeps plenty of toys in my garage.
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by KuHL 951
It may not be structural yet but if you can see surface corrosion on vertical surfaces behind that door vent piece, just imagine what the areas below are like where water pooled..
Yeah, I know exactly what it looks like. The whole sill will have to be replaced at some stage. It's probably not worth the effort. However, these cars are a lot more expensive here than in the US. I'll keep an eye on it.
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 11:26 AM
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Hey all,

Well I am in the Uk and theres a lot of salt on the roads in winter. The bodyshop said they would treat the metal before painting - there have used some repair sections in the worst areas I have also had a replacment front wing (fender for you US guys) fitted. All in I should imagine I won't get much change from £1000 - I just got off the phone to the bodyshop and was hoping to have the car for the weekend but unfortunately they are priming it at the mo so looks like I will have to wait till next week..... Will post pics of the car when I get it back.

Cheers

Dave K.
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