chregan

My '83 NA needs a new OPRV. Looking at pictures of other cars, I have a large bolt in the same area as them. But, my "valve" doesn't have a 24mm hex head. Instead, it needs an 8mm allen key. I tried loosening it but it's really stuck in there. Has anyone else seen this type of valve or am I barking up the wrong tree?
When you are looking at it head-on from the passenger wheel well, it is below and left of the pressure sending unit/oil filter assembly.

KuHL 951

My early 83 is original and has the standard 24 mm hex. Are you sure you have the right piece?

Zero10

My friend's car had one. His was an 83 euro 944. IIRC it's 8mm or something?

chregan

This particular one goes into the oil cooler from the passenger side. There are no other large bolts on the cooler cover. How stuck in there should this bolt be?

Zero, I'm encouraged by your reply. I figure a few people must have seen these even if they were only used for a short time.

jurg

[QUOTE=chregan]This particular one goes into the oil cooler from the passenger side. There are no other large bolts on the cooler cover. How stuck in there should this bolt be?
from under the car?
the allen in the top of the oil housing?that not the OPRV.

pearldrum944

Anyone have a picture of the OPRV? I tried to clean mine last year. I'm not sure exactly where it was, but it was an allen bolt. I could NOT get that thing to budge. Was I trying the wrong piece?

hosrom_951

What jurg showed is the oil thermostat.

hosrom_951

Lookie here:




Thanks to Tom!

chregan

Hussam, that's the pic I was using for reference. I guess mine is a freak with a weird valve. Maybe aftermarket? It's going to be hard to apply enough torque to it with only a small allen key.
The hose to the right of the sending unit is for the external cooler on 951's right? I just have a regular 19mm bolt there on my n/a.

KuHL 951

Try using a 8mm socket type allen and log extension and come in through the wheel well. You might hit that area first with some PB Blaster first, and wake up the bolt with a couple firm taps with the allen and extension. Don't use a L-type allen, it will probably break. What does the outer rim of the head look like on yours, is it round and how much sticks up above the housing?

Zero10

I broke my friend's free using my 1/2" drive wrench, a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, and a 8mm allen key for a 3/8" socket wrench. I as well was worried about stripping it out, so I put it in, put a little bit of tension on the wrench, and gave it a good smack, and it just broke free.
I was worried about it rounding out as well.

It's not aftermarket or anything, just a weird factory valve.

chregan

Kuhl, I was using an 8mm extension. There's no way I would dream of applying that kind of torque through an L-type key. It soaking now. Will try again after dinner.
The outside of the rim is almost flush with the socket and is round. It's about 24mm which would indicate that it's the right thing.
I would just hate to go through all this, strip it, drill it, etc. and then find out I was an idiot. I'm very confident that I'm in the right place at this point.

KuHL 951

If you can't get it loose with an allen you can always use the nut/bolt extractors on the raised rim, they've saved me so many times on exhaust nuts. Those things bite like a mean dog.

User 41221

Thats the early style OPVR with the 8mm allen. The factory recommends replacing it with the one piece version (that has the 24mm head) altho I have used the 3 piece without ill effect for years.

Regards,

Zero10

I've seen 3-piece valves with the 24mm head and with the 8mm allen-head.