Tightening shift linkage...could someone help me with the search?
#1
Hitsquad Ninja
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Tightening shift linkage...could someone help me with the search?
hey everyone
i know the topic has been posted here before...but i couldn't find it using the search. could someone post a link to the thread explaining how to tighten those bolts at the tranny that determine the motion of the shifter? posting the explanation here would be fine too. tia
i know the topic has been posted here before...but i couldn't find it using the search. could someone post a link to the thread explaining how to tighten those bolts at the tranny that determine the motion of the shifter? posting the explanation here would be fine too. tia
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Their is a write up on how to fix the egg shape slot for the shifter.
Basically you redrill the whole to make it round again, and insert a brass or copper pipe. I remember the post had an Ace Hardware part number for the pipe.
Anyone else remember this post?
Basically you redrill the whole to make it round again, and insert a brass or copper pipe. I remember the post had an Ace Hardware part number for the pipe.
Anyone else remember this post?
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Found it.
*found brass tubing used to tighten up the shifter
for any of you who have seen this link:
<a href="http://frwilk.com/early944/misc/shifter.htm" target="_blank">http://frwilk.com/early944/misc/shifter.htm</a>
it involves buying some brass tubing and drilling a bit to help tighten up the shifter which is pretty sloppy even with new parts. the biggest problem was finding a hobby store that sells the necessary size for the project - 7/16".
well, after calling around for a few hours today, i found out that ace hardware does carry this part (but they won't know it). the ace hardware part # is 5024229. it's a 12" by 7/16" piece of brass tubing from m&s engineering.
a sloppy shifter really ruins the nice tight feeling of a good car so i'd imagine it'd be a project that we're all interested in. ace hardware is pretty widespread so i figured it'd be accessable to alot of us.
another place that stocks this part is pearl art and craft( <a href="http://www.pearlpaint.com" target="_blank">www.pearlpaint.com</a> ), but there's only about 20 of them nationwide. if you try that store, tell them it's stock # 137
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*found brass tubing used to tighten up the shifter
for any of you who have seen this link:
<a href="http://frwilk.com/early944/misc/shifter.htm" target="_blank">http://frwilk.com/early944/misc/shifter.htm</a>
it involves buying some brass tubing and drilling a bit to help tighten up the shifter which is pretty sloppy even with new parts. the biggest problem was finding a hobby store that sells the necessary size for the project - 7/16".
well, after calling around for a few hours today, i found out that ace hardware does carry this part (but they won't know it). the ace hardware part # is 5024229. it's a 12" by 7/16" piece of brass tubing from m&s engineering.
a sloppy shifter really ruins the nice tight feeling of a good car so i'd imagine it'd be a project that we're all interested in. ace hardware is pretty widespread so i figured it'd be accessable to alot of us.
another place that stocks this part is pearl art and craft( <a href="http://www.pearlpaint.com" target="_blank">www.pearlpaint.com</a> ), but there's only about 20 of them nationwide. if you try that store, tell them it's stock # 137
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#5
I'm not sure that he's talking about the shifter, but the linkage on the tranny. My shifter is good, but there is still a lot of play in my shifter. Is there a way to tighten it up on the tranny...
I drove a '99 Mustang GT the other day (a friends) and I LOVED his shifter. Tight short throws...and 'stangs are notorious for sloppy shifting. THAT'S how sloppy mine is. I replaced the bushing on the bottom of the shifter and the linkage shaft was nice and cylindrical (not football shaped), so the problem is somewhere else.
Sorry to hijack your thread, Jake. I think we are asking for the same thing...
I drove a '99 Mustang GT the other day (a friends) and I LOVED his shifter. Tight short throws...and 'stangs are notorious for sloppy shifting. THAT'S how sloppy mine is. I replaced the bushing on the bottom of the shifter and the linkage shaft was nice and cylindrical (not football shaped), so the problem is somewhere else.
Sorry to hijack your thread, Jake. I think we are asking for the same thing...
#7
Hitsquad Ninja
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what egg shape slot are you guys reffering to? i'm lost as to what you guys are talking about. lol. but just to be clear...i myself am referring to the linkage at the transmission itself...i keenly remember there being a thread about tightening the bolts back there....any ideas?
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The rod between the shifter and the transmission.
If you replaced the shifter, the whole in this rod can also wear and become egg shaped. This is what is probally causing the sloppiness.
The bolts for the shift linkage are on top of the tranny by the tail pipe. If these are loose they will probally back out before to long.
If you replaced the shifter, the whole in this rod can also wear and become egg shaped. This is what is probally causing the sloppiness.
The bolts for the shift linkage are on top of the tranny by the tail pipe. If these are loose they will probally back out before to long.
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Here is my easy fix for this.
Parts and tools required
• 1 bag of misc sized heat shrink tubing from Home Depot
• 1 (.004mm) 911 valve adjustment shim
• Soldering iron or heat gun to shrink tubing
1. Remove shifter boot and shift ****, circlip and washer. Then move shifting rod off of shifter.
2. Crack the 911 valve adjustment shim in half. Bend one half to fit over the worn rod. Place this over the worn out rod and then cut a piece of heat shrink tubing to go over it. Shrink it down well. How worn your shifting rod is will tell you if need the shim or not. Just the heat shrink tubing might do it.
3. Push the shifting rod over the newly shimmed shifter. I used my extra large channel lock pliers.
4. Put it all back together.
I've only just done this on Sunday so time will tell on how long it lasts. Seems fine. I had no idea how well a tightly shimmed shifter works. WOW.
Thompson
1985 944 early
GMR/PCA
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Parts and tools required
• 1 bag of misc sized heat shrink tubing from Home Depot
• 1 (.004mm) 911 valve adjustment shim
• Soldering iron or heat gun to shrink tubing
1. Remove shifter boot and shift ****, circlip and washer. Then move shifting rod off of shifter.
2. Crack the 911 valve adjustment shim in half. Bend one half to fit over the worn rod. Place this over the worn out rod and then cut a piece of heat shrink tubing to go over it. Shrink it down well. How worn your shifting rod is will tell you if need the shim or not. Just the heat shrink tubing might do it.
3. Push the shifting rod over the newly shimmed shifter. I used my extra large channel lock pliers.
4. Put it all back together.
I've only just done this on Sunday so time will tell on how long it lasts. Seems fine. I had no idea how well a tightly shimmed shifter works. WOW.
Thompson
1985 944 early
GMR/PCA
Mountaineer Editor
#12
Hitsquad Ninja
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well...with me...i dont have any play i think at the shift lever itself. although, i will try what der rennwagen said...maybe it'll work.
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Here is a link I found to repair my shifter. It only cost $5.00 for the bushings and is SO easy to do.
http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech-july-03.htm
It makes the repair out of Porsche parts and add a grease zerk and it will last forever.
Credit to Steve for the article.
Kirby
http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech-july-03.htm
It makes the repair out of Porsche parts and add a grease zerk and it will last forever.
Credit to Steve for the article.
Kirby