Insulation Under the Hood
#16
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I removed mine, because it was "breaking" appart and making a real mess on the engine bay.
Now, i can hear more "mechanical" noise from the engine
I plan on installing a "new" pad, but later on.........
Now, i can hear more "mechanical" noise from the engine
I plan on installing a "new" pad, but later on.........
#17
The did away with it from the 88 Turbo S on. A 944NA is a hot as an ice cube compared to a turbo, you can live without it.
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#18
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by Matt H
The did away with it from the 88 Turbo S on. A 944NA is a hot as an ice cube compared to a turbo, you can live without it.
#19
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To remove the residue from mine, I used 3M 08984 adhesive remover (bought it from an automotive paint supplier). Assuming your engine is in, it is normally recommended to remove the hood (two person job) and lay it on some clean carpet. In my case, since my engine is out, I just stood where the engine normally is and did the job. I broke it down into two sessions, 1 hour + (I didn't watch the time too closely). Take your time, find an old plastic spray bottle (e.g. windex) and put the adhesive remover in. Spray it on, let it work for a few minutes and then, using a dressed bondo scraper, gently "scrape" the adhesive off. I had to go over most areas several times. Work slowly, wear solvent proof gloves and definitely a fresh organic vapour respirator. My under-hood surface came out with perfect looking shiny paint, no scratches.
I will replace with the foil backed stuff when the car goes back together.
If you elect to do the job without removing the hood, and your engine is in, then place a plastic sheet or something over the engine. This job will make a mess!
Oh yeah, there may be even more agressive adhesive removing solvents, but be careful in case they soften the paint. The 08984 did not seem to do this at all.
I will replace with the foil backed stuff when the car goes back together.
If you elect to do the job without removing the hood, and your engine is in, then place a plastic sheet or something over the engine. This job will make a mess!
Oh yeah, there may be even more agressive adhesive removing solvents, but be careful in case they soften the paint. The 08984 did not seem to do this at all.
#20
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Allan's proposal is very meticulous and the attention to detail is likely a better way. Here is what I did one afternoon when it looked like rain was imminent. After putting a sheet over my engine bay, using 3M remover and a plastic putty knife, I took off my crumbling oil-soaked pad. I was surprised at how easy it actually came off. In its place I purchased the silver heat lining with a sound-proof anti-flamatory backing in a roll at Pep Boys for about $20 - it is made for this purpose. I used a marker and a pizza box (I think) to make a stencil and then cut to size. Using 3M Ultra Adhesive (I think that is the name - there is a spray that is specifically made for high heat and another that is not - so check the bottle), I sprayed the pertinent spots and with the assistance of my girlfriend put the liner into place flat. It has been on for over a year - through winter and summer trips - and has not drooped a bit or affected my paint on my hood. My engine bay is a lot cleaner now too. Good luck -
Jeremy
Jeremy
#21
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by SDGuy
The problem with the original materail is that it will eventually crumble again. [/url]
#22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SDGuy
The problem with the original materail is that it will eventually crumble again. [/url]
"After another 15-20 years? I can live with that."
Yeah......you betcha.......me too.
Cheap paint/expensive paint..........do you want to take the risk that the insulation would prevent paint damage to the hood?
Do you REALLY have to get ALL the adhesive off of it anyway, if your gonna just put another one right back on? I really doubt it.
Originally Posted by SDGuy
The problem with the original materail is that it will eventually crumble again. [/url]
"After another 15-20 years? I can live with that."
Yeah......you betcha.......me too.
Cheap paint/expensive paint..........do you want to take the risk that the insulation would prevent paint damage to the hood?
Do you REALLY have to get ALL the adhesive off of it anyway, if your gonna just put another one right back on? I really doubt it.
#23
To remove the old stuff, I, like the others, used 3M adhesive remover (bought at NAPA-red and white can) and a 99 cent flexible plastic spatula I bought at Walmart. Visqueen covered the engine and fenders to keep the black crumbles and glue bits out. Spray on 3M, wait a few minutes and scrape 1 foot area at a time.
Used regular mineral spirits (or use 3M) to remove the rest of the glue after the insulation was removed. Took quite a few passes.
Wiped with water afterward and let dry.
Waxed underside of hood, and then I replaced with factory waffle insulation. I wanted black, and that was my only option.
My 944's a garage queen, so heat over time is not an issue.
If it came with insulation from the factory, Porsche put it there for a reason in my eyes.
My $0.02
Good luck.
Jerry
As for glue removal, the adhesive on the pads are meant to adhere to a clean surface. A glue to glue bond is weaker than a glue to clean surface bond. My guess is new glue is a lot stronger than the 20 year old glue being attached to, but a little here or there would not be a deal breaker of course.
Used regular mineral spirits (or use 3M) to remove the rest of the glue after the insulation was removed. Took quite a few passes.
Wiped with water afterward and let dry.
Waxed underside of hood, and then I replaced with factory waffle insulation. I wanted black, and that was my only option.
My 944's a garage queen, so heat over time is not an issue.
If it came with insulation from the factory, Porsche put it there for a reason in my eyes.
My $0.02
Good luck.
Jerry
As for glue removal, the adhesive on the pads are meant to adhere to a clean surface. A glue to glue bond is weaker than a glue to clean surface bond. My guess is new glue is a lot stronger than the 20 year old glue being attached to, but a little here or there would not be a deal breaker of course.
#25
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Join Date: Feb 2002
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I'm starting the removal/renewal phase myself. Have 3m solvent, have done a few spots..very slow.
If some one finds a reasonable (ha!) price out there for OEM hood foam pls pos, I like the look with the foam..
If some one finds a reasonable (ha!) price out there for OEM hood foam pls pos, I like the look with the foam..
#26
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by fpena944
I know someone mentioned that the 89 Turbo doesn't have insulation, but did S2s ever have it?
Mine has nothing and it appears like it never did.
Mine has nothing and it appears like it never did.
Brian
#28
Race Car
Take a look here, 928 Motorsports (Quick Carl) has been adding catalog items for 944's, he is the one working on the replacement 944 engine harness'. He lists a good reason to have a hood liner. Granted none of us really wanna have it happen to us but it does from time to time.
Quote from his site:
"Couple Things to Think About:
That old foam hood liner you have is probably soaked with oil and gas vapors by now and very, very flammable. Test it. Pull a chunk off (not hard – most of the old foam liners are a crumbling mess after 10 years) and see how hard it is to light. You will see my point – they are a FIRE HAZARD.
We have already "fire tested one of our new foil-faced, flame-retardant hood liners (we didn't mean to, it just worked out that way). My son has a Porsche 951 that we made one of these for. One morning, he went out to the car and started idling it in the driveway to warm it up before his daily commute to the Air base. His Porsche decided to sprout a fuel leak from a broken injector o-ring that cold morning, fuel-soaked the top of his motor and burst into flames on the driveway. The fire burned for about 3 minutes with the hood closed before he could get his extinguisher out, pop the hood, and douse it. All the wiring harness and all the rubber lines and hoses were toasted. But do you know what wasn’t ruined by the fire? His paint job! The hood and his Guards Red Paint job was in perfect shape because of the foiled hood liner. THAT saved him a lot of work and money."
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/hoodliner.php
Michael
Quote from his site:
"Couple Things to Think About:
That old foam hood liner you have is probably soaked with oil and gas vapors by now and very, very flammable. Test it. Pull a chunk off (not hard – most of the old foam liners are a crumbling mess after 10 years) and see how hard it is to light. You will see my point – they are a FIRE HAZARD.
We have already "fire tested one of our new foil-faced, flame-retardant hood liners (we didn't mean to, it just worked out that way). My son has a Porsche 951 that we made one of these for. One morning, he went out to the car and started idling it in the driveway to warm it up before his daily commute to the Air base. His Porsche decided to sprout a fuel leak from a broken injector o-ring that cold morning, fuel-soaked the top of his motor and burst into flames on the driveway. The fire burned for about 3 minutes with the hood closed before he could get his extinguisher out, pop the hood, and douse it. All the wiring harness and all the rubber lines and hoses were toasted. But do you know what wasn’t ruined by the fire? His paint job! The hood and his Guards Red Paint job was in perfect shape because of the foiled hood liner. THAT saved him a lot of work and money."
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/hoodliner.php
Michael
#29
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I used a shop vac to get the bulk of the old (near powder-like) pads off. I used half the bottles on my shelf to get the old glue off -- goo-b-gone, paint cleaner, etc. You do need to put a tarp/sheet over the engine when you do it -- the glue comes off in gummy globs everywhere. Getting to glue off was the only hard part. Got the pads from 944online. You need to cut off a contour on one of the pads at least for an 86 951. The countour probably fits a later/different car.
#30
Burning Brakes
vaccum off the old pad at the car wash
spray with the 3m adhesive remover - works really well - let soak a minute- and scrape off with your wife's pampered chef plastic food scraper. it's slow go, but near the end you will be a pad removin' genius and you will remove large swatches in one stroke!
The OEM pads may look better than the foil - but the foam sucks and the padded foil stuff is so much more effective. If you fear making your own template dont - it is easily done. Just tape up some paper or cardboard and use an exacto blade to follow the edge of the hood recess.
p.s. after I cut the padded foil, i sealed the edges with aluminum tape.
spray with the 3m adhesive remover - works really well - let soak a minute- and scrape off with your wife's pampered chef plastic food scraper. it's slow go, but near the end you will be a pad removin' genius and you will remove large swatches in one stroke!
The OEM pads may look better than the foil - but the foam sucks and the padded foil stuff is so much more effective. If you fear making your own template dont - it is easily done. Just tape up some paper or cardboard and use an exacto blade to follow the edge of the hood recess.
p.s. after I cut the padded foil, i sealed the edges with aluminum tape.