Oil Cooler installation without tool??
#1
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Has anyone replaced the oil cooler gaskets without using the Alignment tool??
***edit ***** Tacoma, Washington
1987 944S
***edit ***** Tacoma, Washington
1987 944S
#3
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Done it 3 times without the alignment tool, never had an issue.
1987, should have the 1-piece valve.
Simply finger-tighten the 4 bolts holding the oil cooler to the block, and wiggle it by hand while threading the OPRV in, it should go in quite easily, once it's torqued down, tighten the oil cooler to the block, done.
1987, should have the 1-piece valve.
Simply finger-tighten the 4 bolts holding the oil cooler to the block, and wiggle it by hand while threading the OPRV in, it should go in quite easily, once it's torqued down, tighten the oil cooler to the block, done.
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zoo (10-09-2021)
#4
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I did an early car w/out the tool. Take your time and make sur that the OPRV is free to move and non binding once the cooler is torqued. I removed the OPRV after tourquing the cooler assembly to make sure it moved freely and was centered. This method may not work as well on the late models???? w/ the higher tech OPRV.
#6
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Yep, the 1-piece is much easier to install without the tool. I've done 2 3-piece valves without the tool, no issues so far. There are varying ways to install the 3-piece valves without the tool, I'm sure we each have our own
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#7
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Speaking of oil coolers, how many of you guys measure the height/shim the oil cooler unit inside the housing (on NA's, turbos don't have this)? Just wondering, the Parts and Tech manual has a bulletin on how to properly do this and was curious if anyone besides me is **** enough to follow it? I don't see that it would make a big difference one way or another.
Regards,
Regards,
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#8
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I measured the gap and it was right in spec. according to the shop manual. It came out perfect using the shims that came with my kit from Paragon.
I have to say that the tool didn't seem to do much except want to slide out as I was putting it all back together.
I have to say that the tool didn't seem to do much except want to slide out as I was putting it all back together.
#9
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Three Wheelin'
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Mine is the three piece OPRV. I took the piston and a piece of folded over duct tape to "attach" temporarily the long spring to the piston. Then I could slide the piston in and out (holding the spring) to ensure that the movement was good as I tightened the console down.
-Scott
-Scott
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OPRV alignment IS critical.
Summarizing a long chain of events, the cover shifted ever so slightly and caused the relief valve to bind.
Oil pressure shot up so high it blew my new oil cooler up.
Spun my mechanical gauge all the way around to zero again...
Pretty pathetic for Porsche to not dowel-locate that cover.
Summarizing a long chain of events, the cover shifted ever so slightly and caused the relief valve to bind.
Oil pressure shot up so high it blew my new oil cooler up.
Spun my mechanical gauge all the way around to zero again...
Pretty pathetic for Porsche to not dowel-locate that cover.
#13
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I'm not that good so I spent the $ on an alignment tool and haven't had a problem. As the above post mentioned: an ever so slight shift in the housing may spell disaster. Besides, I'm a tool guy and having just another specialized tool in my garage is more gooder...
Patrick
Patrick
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tempest411 (10-07-2021)
#15
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Speaking of oil coolers, how many of you guys measure the height/shim the oil cooler unit inside the housing (on NA's, turbos don't have this)? Just wondering, the Parts and Tech manual has a bulletin on how to properly do this and was curious if anyone besides me is **** enough to follow it? I don't see that it would make a big difference one way or another.
Regards,
Regards,
Benny