Clutch Job: Bell Housing Bolt, Drivers Side, 9'oclock. WTF? UPDATE!! page 2
#31
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Once I dropped the crossmember, I used the 19mm with built-in swivel. That busted the plastic part that held the break line in place, but didn't move the bolt. After that a half inch socket actually fit, the btreaker bar made short work of getting it loose. I finished it with that same 19mm swivel.
This is a pain. Every step presents its own problems. If I had truly realized the pain this is, I would have pulled the engine or just had it done.
This is a pain. Every step presents its own problems. If I had truly realized the pain this is, I would have pulled the engine or just had it done.
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Originally Posted by 944_S_TYPE
Like he said, remember to pull the clutch fork shaft... Next time... Pull the motor!
#34
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I really hate this job. I really really hate this. I cannot get that bellhousing off. I've not been able to work on it all week, and here I am another hour into it, and I've gotten NOEFFINGWHERE. Its now very stuck between the firewall and the engine. I'm just going to pull the bastard and get it over with.
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Glad you got that bolt out. Sorry about the plast brake line clip - I guess that ruins your chances at the Concours. ![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
If you haven't already pulled the motor there's still a couple of things.
First, did you remove the bolt that attaches the greound strap to the bellhousing? I just removed the ground strap at the firewall and that bolt head would not clear the firewall. It definitely has to come out.
Second, as I mentioned earlier, if you loosen the nuts on the bottom of the motormounts, you can move the engine from side to side a little. Be sure the engine is supported with a 2.4 under the oil pan on the floor jack.
I had a lot of trouble removing the belhousing too. I pulled, pushed and did everything I could think of. Then finally, I got it in just the right position and the bellhousing literally fell off.
Good luck.
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If you haven't already pulled the motor there's still a couple of things.
First, did you remove the bolt that attaches the greound strap to the bellhousing? I just removed the ground strap at the firewall and that bolt head would not clear the firewall. It definitely has to come out.
Second, as I mentioned earlier, if you loosen the nuts on the bottom of the motormounts, you can move the engine from side to side a little. Be sure the engine is supported with a 2.4 under the oil pan on the floor jack.
I had a lot of trouble removing the belhousing too. I pulled, pushed and did everything I could think of. Then finally, I got it in just the right position and the bellhousing literally fell off.
Good luck.
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The issue is really the speed/ref sensor bracket. If I could rotate the bell housing past those, it would be cake. I really didn't want to re-calibrate them... I call shens on taking this apart with that bracket still bolted in place.
I was just reading about pulling the engine, and I'm not sure if I want to do that either now. A new thought is that maybe I can get it off, but putting it back in will be just as much of a pain.
Concours? Heh, I don't think so.
I was just reading about pulling the engine, and I'm not sure if I want to do that either now. A new thought is that maybe I can get it off, but putting it back in will be just as much of a pain.
Concours? Heh, I don't think so.
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#38
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No putting back on is easier. I'm not sure why, but it's a snap.
FWIW, I didn't have to remove the bracket to get the belhousing off my 83. Just keep messing with it, it'll come off. It is very frustrating, though.
FWIW, I didn't have to remove the bracket to get the belhousing off my 83. Just keep messing with it, it'll come off. It is very frustrating, though.
#39
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Don't know if it will help you but I removed the speed sensor bracket completely after pulling the sensors. Recalibrating them is easy if you do it before you put the bellhousing back on. Just do the one sensor (reference I think) with a go-no-go gauge against the flywheel. Once that one is set the speed sensor will be fine. Steve is right, the install is incredibly easy for some reason. Trust me there is a sweet spot in getting that bellhousing to clear the firewall. I did the same thing with the jack under the oil pan. Are you able to even clear the guide pins on the block and rotate it? Hang in there buddy, you'll get it done and will know what to do next time(like you'll want to go through this again). I just did timing/balance belts on the 83 today and had issues with TDC marks, there is no mark on my flywheel to use the lower belhousing notch as a reference...damn those 83's. The balance shafts were way out of alignment from the PO's work. On top of that the distributor rotor cracked and I had to call all over town to find one...$14.99 at NAPA and they actually had one. These cars will put you in an early grave, or at least it feels like it at my age.
Don't give up, you are almost there.
Steve
Don't give up, you are almost there.
Steve
Last edited by KuHL 951; 05-22-2005 at 03:04 AM.
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Here are the pics, its almost a shame to take the flywheel off. Its soooo smooth... But I'm going to replace the rear main, so its got to come off.
The troublemaker
Metal tabs showing wear
Metal tabs showing wear better pic
Seperation problem... Another one
Not much wear. Such a shame
Flywheel still bolted to car. It is very smooth...
Such a mess, valve cover?
The troublemaker
Metal tabs showing wear
Metal tabs showing wear better pic
Seperation problem... Another one
Not much wear. Such a shame
Flywheel still bolted to car. It is very smooth...
Such a mess, valve cover?
#42
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Looking good!
Ya might want to at least take some fine emory cloth on a small block, and polish up the front of that flywheel. If it shows any blue heat marks, and/or small checking cracks, you might want to have it machined anyway, if it doesn't easily polish out. Don't forget to replace that $7.00 or less pilot bearing in the back of the crank. Be sure your using the right 12pt serated "cheesehead" socket on those flywheel bolts, hold it in tight and STRAIGHT when taking them out (impact gun works pretty good here, if ya got one). Don't score up the inside of the rear seal outer bore seats when removing the old seal. Congrats! The worst is over? Have fun.
Ya might want to at least take some fine emory cloth on a small block, and polish up the front of that flywheel. If it shows any blue heat marks, and/or small checking cracks, you might want to have it machined anyway, if it doesn't easily polish out. Don't forget to replace that $7.00 or less pilot bearing in the back of the crank. Be sure your using the right 12pt serated "cheesehead" socket on those flywheel bolts, hold it in tight and STRAIGHT when taking them out (impact gun works pretty good here, if ya got one). Don't score up the inside of the rear seal outer bore seats when removing the old seal. Congrats! The worst is over? Have fun.
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Originally Posted by 83na944
How about that pilot bearing?
1st order for the day tomorrow is to get the flywheel machined and to get the pilot bearing and rear main replaced.