JX

I bled my cooling system with the car parked on an incline (nose up), bleed screw opened, rad cap off, heater blower controls on maximum, engne running. After continually topping up coolant following each burp and squeezing upper rad hose, the coolant finally flowed out of the bleed screw hole. When I revved the motor the flow of coolant out of the bleed screw hole increased into a bit of a fountain. I closed the bleed screw and installed the rad cap. I tested the coolant flow through the water pump by pinching off and releasing the upper rad hose and listened to the coolant gurgle through the system.

My concern is, after idling and when the motor reaches normal operating temperature (according to the temp gauge needle), the heater ducts are still blowing cold air. I checked the upper and lower rad hoses and there is coolant flowing through which indicates the thermostat is allowing coolant to flow through the pump. The heater valve and hoses are new and connected at the firewall. The heater vacuum hoses (at least that's what I think they are), are connected at the firewall.

Any ideas as to why there is no warm air blowing from my heater ducts?

Techno Duck

Any excess air in the cooling system usually collects and gets stuck in the heater core. I had a similar problem in my 924S last winter. I spent the entire season with no heat in my car (needless to say we took my g/f's car 90% of the time).

A trick you can try to make bleeding more effective is to disconnect the upper radiator hose (on the radiator side) and pour coolant into the hose to fill the block up. Do not fill the hose completley as getting the hose connected back into the radiator will make a huge mess. Bleeding using this method solved my problem, where bleeding the system a couple of times the normal way had no effect at all.

JX

Interesting, thanks. I'll see what that does.