Kokopelli

So far so good, been following Clark's method. Got the mount srews out without too much of a problem. Not it tells me to

Use a sharp object to scribe a mark around the cross-member mounting bolts (4 per side).

why? There are washers underneath these bolts, so any scribing is pointless.
Am I missing something?

It doesn't tell me to disconnect the steering rod at the coupling, should I be doing that, 'cause can't see that I'll get much movement otherwise.

IceShark

I did the scribing but it didn't work out so well as I wound up with things misaligned and even off center. Alignment guy got things back in shape.

You might want to upgrade the castor blocks on the rear of the control arms with the 968 ones while you are doing this work.

You probably have a RHD car so I'm not sure if that steering linkage is the same as LHD. But on the LHD if you take the bolts out of the crossmember and the control arms the whole works will drop down enough to get enough clearance to replace the motor mounts. I couldn't get enough clearance to get the new mounts in doing it the way Clark's explained.

Kokopelli

Thanks for the reply. Are these Castor blocks expensive? The fun part is about to start this morning. So far it has been easy.

IceShark

Not too bad. They were $100 USD for the pair. Even from the dealer they were priced around $170 a pair. Cheap considering the amount of work you will be doing and having to spend $70 to get the front end aligned.

By the way, watch out for the 2 bolts that hold each castor block to the frame and don't torque them in too tight. I believe they are supposed to be around 40 foot lbs, check to make sure on that though. Some guys have overtorqued or cross threaded the threads (the original bolts may be self cutting thread design) and wound up with no threads to screw into. Then you have a mess.

IceShark

Not too bad. They were $100 USD for the pair. Even from the dealer they were priced around $170 a pair. Cheap considering the amount of work you will be doing and having to spend $70 to get the front end aligned.

By the way, watch out for the 2 bolts that hold each castor block to the frame and don't torque them in too tight. I believe they are supposed to be around 40 foot lbs, check to make sure on that though. Some guys have overtorqued or cross threaded the threads (the original bolts may be self cutting thread design) and wound up with no threads to screw into. Then you have a mess.

Kokopelli

Got the new motor mounts installed. I suppose it went reasonably smoothly for the first time around. The left one was still ok, only slightly compressed, but the exhaust side had collapsed. The mounts were only 3 years old. I've now replaced the missing heat shield, so these ones should last longer.

When it came to moving the engine over to get the right mount in I took a 2x4 and levered the cam cover accross, using the shock tower as a pivot. A 2x4 off cut was used to old the engine in that position. It was still a bit fiddly to get the mount in the right location, but eventually it settled where I wanted it to go.

Iceshark, I didn't replace the castor blocks, due to lack of funds at the moment. My bike needs a new front tyre.

The car runs a lot smoother now. It takes about a minute before it settles into a smooth idle, I can live with that.

IceShark

Got to do what you got to do if you need to run the bike.

I'd be pretty certain that you have your alignment off after monkeying around with the motor mounts. If you take your hands off the wheel driving down a straight road and it starts to wander around you can be pretty sure alignment is really off. So it would make sense to change out the castor blocks and do alignment just once. Don't run the car too long without the alignment or you will cup the front tires and add to your replacement budget.